Ford 8.8 should i buy?

Around here an 8.8 is $250 dollars with a single track center and factory axles. I am putting a 9" in my 450 - 500 hp mustang. You can buy posi units off ebay for $100 - $150 and axles are $425. Isn't that about what an 8.8 would cost to build properly?

Axles
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/9-Ford-Custom-Moser-Axle-Package-Rearend-9-Inch-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5ad1d706c7QQitemZ390067586759QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

rearend
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/9-Ford-Fox-Body-Housing-1979-Up-Mustang-Rearend_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5ad77a4addQQitemZ390162172637QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

tiger wrote:Around here an 8.8 is $250 dollars with a single track center and factory axles. I am putting a 9" in my 450 - 500 hp mustang. You can buy posi units off ebay for $100 - $150 and axles are $425. Isn't that about what an 8.8 would cost to build properly?

Axles
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/9-Ford-Custom-Moser-Axle-Package-Rearend-9-Inch-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5ad1d706c7QQitemZ390067586759QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

rearend
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/9-Ford-Fox-Body-Housing-1979-Up-Mustang-Rearend_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5ad77a4addQQitemZ390162172637QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

for 450-500 hp I would just put the 9 inch in like it is after adding the posi unit. Hell I might even just shim up the factory unit locking it up. that's even cheaper.

If there was one right way of doing things, we wouldn't have so many darn choices, right.

JMO, you will never build an 8.8 as strong, dependable and convienent as a 9" will be using the same level of parts. I have quite a few friends with Mustangs that run in Drag Radial classes that have been well into the 4's at over 3200 lbs and each and every one of them have removed the 8.8 and installed a 9". Don't get me wrong here though, even though I think the 9" is leaps and bounds better, the 8.8 will definitely get the job done, there are a whole lot of fast ones out there.

Hey Mad, do you intend to weld perches onto the 8.8 rear for use with your leaf springs or are you going to weld brackets to the frame for using the Fox bodies "4-link" set up, just curious.

paulie9fingers wrote:JMO, you will never build an 8.8 as strong, dependable and convienent as a 9" will be using the same level of parts. I have quite a few friends with Mustangs that run in Drag Radial classes that have been well into the 4's at over 3200 lbs and each and every one of them have removed the 8.8 and installed a 9". Don't get me wrong here though, even though I think the 9" is leaps and bounds better, the 8.8 will definitely get the job done, there are a whole lot of fast ones out there.

Hey Mad, do you intend to weld perches onto the 8.8 rear for use with your leaf springs or are you going to weld brackets to the frame for using the Fox bodies "4-link" set up, just curious.

Now where talking about a different level. Yes for this horsepower there is no doubt you can build a 9 inch that is better, stronger, and more reliable. Now for the 750-1000hp level I can't say that. At that level you are to the point that setting up just the center section is over $1000. The stock center will not work (for long), the Nodular center will work on lighter cars for a while, but one strong hit can rip any of these apart. At that level you really need to move up on parts.

A must with the 8.8 is to weld the axle tubes into the center housing. Those are easily twisted and pulled apart. I was going to build an 8.8 only because I was going to use a stock suspension mustang and a new 9" housing with the brackets for the factory suspension was going to cause it to cost more.

Factory 8.8
welded tubes
8.8 ends cut off and replaced with 9" ends
Moser axles
Moser spool
9" disc brakes

paulie9fingers wrote:JMO, you will never build an 8.8 as strong, dependable and convienent as a 9" will be using the same level of parts. I have quite a few friends with Mustangs that run in Drag Radial classes that have been well into the 4's at over 3200 lbs and each and every one of them have removed the 8.8 and installed a 9". Don't get me wrong here though, even though I think the 9" is leaps and bounds better, the 8.8 will definitely get the job done, there are a whole lot of fast ones out there.

Hey Mad, do you intend to weld perches onto the 8.8 rear for use with your leaf springs or are you going to weld brackets to the frame for using the Fox bodies "4-link" set up, just curious.

I havent decided yet. Im thinking about welding the perches on and running caltracs for that old school look but i need to see how much fab work i need to do to get the 4 link to work under the car.

As for coug 350 dollars is a darn sight cheaper than 2600. Just because i turned down your heads because Im only working a part time job that pays crap doesnt mean you need to run around hating. if you do not have anything you can say nicely then dont say anything at all.

jones wrote:A must with the 8.8 is to weld the axle tubes into the center housing. Those are easily twisted and pulled apart. I was going to build an 8.8 only because I was going to use a stock suspension mustang and a new 9" housing with the brackets for the factory suspension was going to cause it to cost more.

Factory 8.8
welded tubes
8.8 ends cut off and replaced with 9" ends
Moser axles
Moser spool
9" disc brakes

I went to set up a 9 inch from currie and it ran me upwards of 2000 dollars

the tubes are welded and it apears to have the FRPP part number on it not the factory one
What purpose would replacing the ends with 9" ends serve Just wondering.

here is my 8.8 deal ....... it has held up fine w/ 850hp and some nos

Nice!
Im guessing if your setup could handle that much abuse then i still have room to grow

What purpose would replacing the ends with 9" ends serve Just wondering.[/quote]

The 8.8's are c-clip axles like the chevy 10 and 12 bolt. there is a clip inside that hold the axles in. the 9 inch uses the bearing reatiner at the end of the housing to hold the axles in. So in a 9 inch when the axle breaks internally they don't fall out. You are required to run c-clip eliminators or 9 inch style retainingends on all axles for the NHRA rules.

AXLES FALLING OUT!!!!!!!
Good thing the guy told me that i had the C clip eliminator kit already installed!

Our old setup was much like Bruno's. That will hold a lot of power.

Do you think running it with leafs and caltracs would work well?

It should be fine, although there will be a little more stress where the tubes are welded in the "center body" because on the factory set up the upper bars are attached to the "center body" directly absorbing some of the stress from rotation.

You already have it and the price was right, go with it, but like was mentioned earlier, make sure the tubes are completely welded to the "center body".

paulie9fingers wrote:It should be fine, although there will be a little more stress where the tubes are welded in the "center body" because on the factory set up the upper bars are attached to the "center body" directly absorbing some of the stress from rotation.

You already have it and the price was right, go with it, but like was mentioned earlier, make sure the tubes are completely welded to the "center body".

Is there anyway i could reinforce that area on the axle? I have a welding course in the afternoon even has an X ray machine for the welds in shop
We are allowed to bring in personal projects to work on and right it off as real world application projects

Free labor tools metal and welding equipment... doesnt get much better than that!