93 F150 528cu project build

We managed to get the oil pan some clearance but I'm going to have to come up with some way to get to the front sump oil plug.

Swaping the mounts moved the engine back enough that with a little trimming I will be able to use an oil filter without any typ of adapter.

This is a look at the engine mounts that I have swapped sides. had to redrill a hole on each mount and going to swap the washers for a piece of 3/16" plate. The plate will have more surface area instead of the washers.

drill a hole in the crossmember to get to the plug, it wont hurt anythang

Are those motor mounts custom? Im guessing the headers are for a fox body? Looks good in there. We have the 90 degree adapter on my dads 95 and the frame still needed to be cut. Its nice you got it the filter to line up with the stock hole. Do all aftermarker rear sump pans have to dual drain plugs?

Coming along nicely, and looking good.

droppedf100 wrote:Are those motor mounts custom? Im guessing the headers are for a fox body? Looks good in there. We have the 90 degree adapter on my dads 95 and the frame still needed to be cut. Its nice you got it the filter to line up with the stock hole. Do all aftermarker rear sump pans have to dual drain plugs?

The engine mounts are a off the shelf item from Summit. I can't remember the manufactures name off the top of my head but it a common company.
Yes, the headers are mid-length headers for a Mustang from D&D. The driverside header was modified a little for a turbo build in a fox body. (Which would have been on the passanger side on a Mustang turbo build I was doing.) I would like to see if I can find a set of 2" or 2-1/8" Mustang headers that would fit down the road.
From looking around at the different aftermarket pans it appears that only the fox body oil pans like I have reguire the second drain plug. The oil pans that you are suppose to use for the trucks only have one sump.

Edit: They use to make the mounts, although it looks like they have went to a different design. 4225 is the Trans Dapt part number.

Josh,

Your progess is looking great! If/When you look into rewiring the truck. Check with Trick Cable and Switch and get a switch panel unless you are planning on rewiring the truck and using all your stock switches.

Just and idea for ya'

I want to pull all of the factory wiring and rewire the truck. I can't stand having a wiring glitch and not knowing what is wrong.

I'm diggin' the mount for the centrifugal supercharger on the driver's side!!!

Can you drill a hole in the frame for the drain plug? Or is the I-beam bracket under there? Can you swap to the truck pan?

jbozzelle wrote:I'm diggin' the mount for the centrifugal supercharger on the driver's side!!!

Can you drill a hole in the frame for the drain plug? Or is the I-beam bracket under there? Can you swap to the truck pan?

I wish that was a centrifugal mount!! It's really just a stock powersteering and ac bracket off a F250.

I can cut a hole in the cross member and make some type of extension.

PS. I checked the dimensions and the pan I have now is 6-1/4 deep in that area. Which is the same as a Canton truck pan.

I got to figure out what all fittings, adapters and line I need now.

#8an o-ring fittings

160gph #1792 1/2" npt inlet/outlet

2qty 8an male inlet/outlet

-8an male inlet/outlet


need to get a price on this Quick Fuel part 34-8000BP

Finished the transmission crossmember.

very nice jones! the truck is coming together!

Thanks,

I'll probably come back and put a center gusset on the two mounts.

jones wrote:Thanks,

I'll probably come back and put a center gusset on the two mounts.

I'm glad you mentioned that, Josh, as I was thinking the same thing....but I don't want to sound like a know it all or anything.

Since you brought it up, let me add this......that angle looks pretty thin. You might get some better strength with TWO gussets per side, and place them near where the bolts go through. It would really suck to have that angle bend around a single gusset and cause you some problems later.

With the length of that crossmember, there's likely to be some pretty high shear loads on the bolts at the frame, so keeping that angle stiff will help to minimize that shear.

I did something very similar to my Torino when I was modifying the crossmember and mounting to fit the E4OD in there. Double gussets out of 3/16" steel and 1/2" bolts just in case.

It's good to see your build coming along so quick, man!

Greg

I am going to use 3/16 for gussets and the bolts are 1/4-20 grade 8 as long as I make sure the bolts stay tight I should be good. The center mount will allow the transmission to rock side to side, so that should help some. I figure the only chance of the mounts bending is if I hit the wall or really torque the frame. Which hopefully the mount would bend instead of breaking the case.