93 F150 528cu project build

a rewire would be nice, that has my vote. piles of crunchy EFI wiring laying around not in use seems annoying the instant a motor like that goes in there.........as you said; so many more things to hunt for gremlins in. you can get all new stuff with new fuses and labeled wires allowing for that fuel pump and all the new things you'd like to run on that motor......by the time you run juice to the new stuff and figure out the turn signals you'll be swearing and kicking your new truck--

nice truck though, always likes those with a little dropped ride height and some 18-20" rims (not ghetto, just fillin the wells)

I don't even what to think about wiring! I guess next step is to gut the interior and face the demon. I guess I'll just have to cut all the lighting connectors off and reuse them. I hope I can keep all my power accesories.

I know the factory gauges won't work because it has to have an ECU. I got the headlights working but the turn signals won't work nor the hazard lights. If I could just figure out why the windows and turnsignals won't work than I'll just add auxilary switches for the ignition and starter. But nothing on the steering column works.

I need to find a real good wiring diagram for a 92 F150.

Jones,

The F-150's must be different than the Mustangs,at least the older Mustangs.I know my 89 Mustang my Fuel Gauge and Voltmeter still work and i took the stock computer out of it.It was a 4 cylinder car i just removed the old Computer wires kept the fuel and voltmeter.All my lights and turn signals and horn and wipers still work fine.I just had to wire the MSD box after that,i don't know if this helps since it sounds like the trucks are wired different.

Later Mark.

The fuel gauge might have still worked but it now has a fuel cell with a Gm sending unit. I figure that the computer didn't have anything to do with the turn signals. Just have to see whats going wrong where for nothing on the column to work.

L&L Products makes the shortest right angle oil filter adapter I could find when I swapped into my 85. On the oil pan drain plug is there enough clearance that you could run an AN line from the front sump to the rear sump so it could just drain back?

Ended up not having to use the oil filter adapter. All I had to do was trim an inch or two from the crossmember and the Motorcraft oil filter fits great. (The cut looks crappy but you can only cut so much of a curved notch with a straight 6" cut off wheel!)
I should have enough room to use some type of tube to carry the oil away from the front sump.

My dads 95 still has the computer in it i believe but everything works. A/C, gauges, tach, pw, ignition (MSD). It even has the stock column shifter and cable hooked up to the C6. It has all the wiring up to the engine harness and everything is cut out except the a/c, gauges, and wires for tach. Ill get pictures if you want. Its not the cleanest set-up and im sure alot could be eliminated still but I havent really messes with it. Even the Aeromotive fuel pump turns on with the key. We use the front/rear tank switch to turn it on and off.

droppedf100 wrote:My dads 95 still has the computer in it i believe but everything works. A/C, gauges, tach, pw, ignition (MSD). It even has the stock column shifter and cable hooked up to the C6. It has all the wiring up to the engine harness and everything is cut out except the a/c, gauges, and wires for tach. Ill get pictures if you want. Its not the cleanest set-up and im sure alot could be eliminated still but I havent really messes with it. Even the Aeromotive fuel pump turns on with the key. We use the front/rear tank switch to turn it on and off.

That is how I would like to do it. (Except for the column shifter.) I honestly haven't dove into a wiring schematic yet, so it might not be as bad as I am thinking. Hopefully I can work on it this weekend.

I thought about that after I got finished. Right now I am using midlength headers and should be able to make a straight shot bellow the cross member. If I run into this problem I figure I'll take some dom to a machine shop and try to get them to bend some "humps" as tight as they can. Or like you said, hang it from the top and have the tube bent to drop bellow the mount then back up.

Speaking of exhaust, I have to find some good steel V-band connectors.

Jones.

In our early 6.7L builds the turbo piston was to small so we had the run a remote oil line to the center section, bla bla bla.. anyway, we used PETERSON in line filters. I have 20 - 30 of these filters. Just letting you know, YOU have one here if you would like one? Cheap....!

adam

blown86hallet wrote:Jones.

In our early 6.7L builds the turbo piston was to small so we had the run a remote oil line to the center section, bla bla bla.. anyway, we used PETERSON in line filters. I have 20 - 30 of these filters. Just letting you know, YOU have one here if you would like one? Cheap....!

adam

Thank you man, look for a PM!

Ok, I know I haven't posted anything in a while. Main update is the engine package has changed for the better! As for exactly what and how much,,,,, don't be too surprised!!! I have changed the entire engine one time already! Who knows what I am up to now, sometimes I don't even know!

Whenever I get a chance to do something I'll post!