RV Tow Rig

Lets discuss using a RV as a tow rig.......

Whats the best set-up / Most Economical ?

What kind of mods need to be done?

Class A, C or ????

What models to look for?

Looking to Tow a 24-26' enclosed with a dragster and full complement of spares and tools.

You must be bored and thinking of spending some of that cash you are making overseas.... I just pull my trailer with my F350 so I can't offer much help here. I know Dan uses one of those trailer dolly things with his trailer and class C and he said it helps a lot. The biggest issue with an RV is the distance from the rear wheels to the back of the coach is a long distance limiting their towing capacity. Of course a lot of people just seem to do what ever and get away with it.hahaha

I can fix you up with a nice class c

What ya got Randy?

Dave , the class A may work ok without a tow dolly. But the class C doesn't. I towed alot without one ,but the hitch finally broke off, it just happened that someone had added a 2" by 1/4" flat piece of metal on top. It was all that was holding the reciever on when I saw it. I've had it bounce the front wheels off the ground when it hit a bump just right. In the rain if your trailer brakes ever quit ,you couldn't stop it in 2 miles at 55mph. The front wheels will just slide. I don't like to tow at over 65mph even with the tow dolly.But I really like taking the MH if it's hot or cold out and if I'm going to be gone overnight.It only gets about 6mpg ,but the money you can on a hotel and food will help out.Happy RVing!! Ky has a nice one !

I looked at a couple Class A's before I left for the sand box. Seems you can pick a pretty dam nice Late 90's or very early 2000's for real cheap compaired to new. I also saw a few older Diesel Pushers that where priced decent. But I'm just not sure what to get. I plan on using it as a home on my 2 week rotations and would like to do some Around the country racing.

dp.... Saudi Internet sucks......

I'd go Class A if I could. They're cheaper for what your getting when buying used.If your pulling much distance I think you'd be better off with the larger chassis..JMO

Yea, I'd have to agree with the Class A statment. Just got to see whats out there when I'm ready to buy.

I would recommend a trailer toad or similar on anything less that a well built diesel pusher, and then still sometimes. In the older models, the Ford F53 chassis is definitely the way to go. (not saying you would buy anything with the Chevy motor.) The gas burners do an okay job. My old Damon with a 460 had a 533 gear, so it had plenty of grunt, and got around 9 MPG empty and 5.5 MPG towing. My current MH gets around 7.5 MPG towing, but will pull the house off the foundation.

Again, figure the cost of the trailer toad as part of the cost. You'll be happy you did.

I got a 1995 29' ford gulfstream 460 , almost 11,000 miles about 100 hrs on the 4500 watt generator. It has master bedroom, shower, separate toilet that is not in the shower lol , bathroom sink , 4 burner stove, oven, tv, vcr kitchen table/bed sink, couch / bed. automatic leveling jacks , new tires less than 600 miles I will take $15,000.

KY JELLY wrote:separate toilet that is not in the shower lol

Then how do you keep it clean???????????????????????????

Curt wrote:

KY JELLY wrote:separate toilet that is not in the shower lol

Then how do you keep it clean???????????????????????????

green oil and methanol I would have figured Lem would have already told you methanol will keep your rv shitta from getting dirty

I have a 1992 model Ford E350 RV - 27 footer Class C with a 460 and I'm not sure what gear. It shows it's age on the outside but is like new on the inside along with the running gear and just now clicked 40,000 miles (Just some FYI). Plus we got it DIRT cheap after some negotiating due to the tires and A/C. So I got some new E-Load range tires and charged the A/C system... GOOD AS NEW!

Took it to Myrtle Beach SC this summer (Without trailer).

Anyway, I got Bill to weld in a bunch of metal and supports on the rear frame as well as the hitch. Last year I pulled Blake's 24 foot enclosed trailer to BG with a standard hitch. The RV had no problem with pulling but the trailer liked to sway back and forth a bit. Soon after I purchased Keith's 28 foot enclosed along with the load distribution hitch and anti-sway bar. It pulls MUCH better with the larger hitch and anti-sway bar. Eliminated 95% of the swaying and going up big hills I have to go down a gear but other than that it pulls GREAT! I'd still like to get a trailer toad like what Dan uses.

We would prefer a Class A and have discussed getting one but we just can't swing it at this time so we will wait until next year and explore options again.

p.s. Randy and Beccas RV is NICE!!! If I could sale mine today I'd buy there's the very next day!

Just my 2+ cents

A good friend of mine has an E350 Class C RV. 460, etc... He uses a trailer toad with it and it pulls his 32' enclosed just fine. Just don't try to back up with the trailer toad...!!! That's the only part that sucks about them. If you can't pull through you're screwed. Maybe the trailer toads with actual fullsize tires act differently, but I know his little tired toad doesn't cooperate well when he tried to back up.

My toad has the small tires and it backs real well. You just have to lock it in before backing up.

It'll back up. But it scrubs thetires bad due to the long overhang on the rv.

A 42' gooseneck with lounge and sleeper ... Outfitted like a boat with a fresh water tank, shower, kitchen and head.
Pull it with a duelly F350 diesel.

That way you can drop the trailer and still use the truck for running around.

I just bought an '87 Winnebago Class A 3 weeks ago. It is in great shape with 65K on it and it was cheap. However, it damn sure isn't ready to pull an enclosed trailer as far as the frame goes. I looked at a Trailer Toad but, they want as much for one of those as I paid for the RV. My plan is to put some bracing in under the rear to tie things together. I can do that much cheaper than a Toad would cost and probably would have to brace it some, even with a Toad.
Here is my plan....feel free to speak up if you have ideas.

Treeyasoon wrote:I just bought an '87 Winnebago Class A 3 weeks ago. It is in great shape with 65K on it and it was cheap. However, it damn sure isn't ready to pull an enclosed trailer as far as the frame goes. I looked at a Trailer Toad but, they want as much for one of those as I paid for the RV. My plan is to put some bracing in under the rear to tie things together. I can do that much cheaper than a Toad would cost and probably would have to brace it some, even with a Toad.
Here is my plan....feel free to speak up if you have ideas.

The bridge will work better if you use one long peace 2x2 and notch so you can bend it at the longest drop support and let that support weld to the top of the 2x2 then take some smaller tubing or flat bar and X brace in between the supports,a bridge support is only as strong as you build it.I would brace the frame good at the front of the bridge that is where the pressure will want to move to.

Great thread !
Since I am currently looking for a class a rv with a 460, this thread is of interest to me.
I have been seeing some nice looking (in the pics) Class a's on craigslist around here for under $ 10,000. of course those listings don't last long tho.

I think I have narrowed it down to a 90-97 model.

Of course I believe this is prime rv buying season right now before everybody starts winterizing them.

I saw an ad for a 1991 Oskosh class a chassis with a 5.9 Cummins and an Allison trans, but he wants $ 15,000 for it. That 5.9 Cummins almost sounds like the perfect engine...almost.

Treeyasoon wrote:I just bought an '87 Winnebago Class A 3 weeks ago. It is in great shape with 65K on it and it was cheap. However, it damn sure isn't ready to pull an enclosed trailer as far as the frame goes. I looked at a Trailer Toad but, they want as much for one of those as I paid for the RV. My plan is to put some bracing in under the rear to tie things together. I can do that much cheaper than a Toad would cost and probably would have to brace it some, even with a Toad.
Here is my plan....feel free to speak up if you have ideas.

I would use 2x3 where you have the 2x2, make it all with 2x3 be much stronger. But that's just me

Bump......

dfree383 wrote:Lets discuss using a RV as a tow rig.......

Whats the best set-up / Most Economical ?

What kind of mods need to be done?

Class A, C or ????

What models to look for?

Dave,W/the miles you drive all year,(and your money ) I would buy a Class A diesel pusher for mpg and diesel longevity.jmo