Boost vs Cubes vs The Budget

torkair wrote:

I would like to know why you feel cubes would be better than boost. I'm not disagreeing with you that it is possible I just want to know why, I need as much info as I can get and I feel that you have more than enough to back it up.

On a side note, I've been looking at how much abuse a set of stock connecting rods can take before they become a liability. If they can hold past 750 hp then I don't see any reason to change them but if there is even the slightest hesitation then forged H beams will be added to the built without question.

Edit: Also, depending on cost vs. benefit I may just have the crank offset ground for some of the other forged connecting rod options and grab a few cubes that way while reducing bearing speed at the connecting rod.

It's pretty simple, look at the cost, the packaging, maintenance and which would be more dependable in a racing application.

Curt wrote:

torkair wrote:

I would like to know why you feel cubes would be better than boost. I'm not disagreeing with you that it is possible I just want to know why, I need as much info as I can get and I feel that you have more than enough to back it up.

On a side note, I've been looking at how much abuse a set of stock connecting rods can take before they become a liability. If they can hold past 750 hp then I don't see any reason to change them but if there is even the slightest hesitation then forged H beams will be added to the built without question.

Edit: Also, depending on cost vs. benefit I may just have the crank offset ground for some of the other forged connecting rod options and grab a few cubes that way while reducing bearing speed at the connecting rod.

It's pretty simple, look at the cost, the packaging, maintenance and which would be more dependable in a racing application.

After a bit of poking around the stroker route is definitely the more cost effective route to take, there is no extra plumbing or excessive engine heat and there is also the fact that I wouldn't need to add other electronic components to the system just so I could get a good tune on the thing. With that being said I have the 2 different blocks to work with, the D9TE (from what I have read here) is externally balanced and has longer cylinder skirts (as well as a slightly taller deck), meanwhile the D1VE block is internally balanced and has a slightly shorter deck, so which block should I go with?

I am considering a 4.15" stroke combo right now but seeing as I haven't gone out and bought a rotating assembly yet I may end up changing my mind on this as well.

Either block will serve your purpose.

I figure I will go with the D1VE block first, from there stuff a 4.15 stroker kit in it, bolt on the D3VE heads after the ports have been cleaned up a tad bit and port matched to the Victor. Now should I go 6.7" or 6.8" rods and once I pick a rod length what pistons will I want in order to achieve a 9.5:1 CR with the D3 heads? And the last bit would be cam selection, I'll be running a stick shift (T56) and 3.50 rear gears in a 72 Gran Torino which I hope to have a full interior in.

If you change your mind im still around just dont get on the comp much you can call anytime and ask about turbo stuff..208-512-4907

The main problem I found when researching turbos on a Big Block is that there is a lot of TECH available for 1200 to 1800 HP big block turbos but there is miniscule TECH available for 750 HP to 900 HP big block turbos.

Most of the dealers you will talk to will want to relate to small block turbo applications and you will get wildly different opinions on turbo sizing.