Dry Sump System

badcoupe wrote:How do you choose and picked the right system for engine

After some thought about this question, I had to back up and consider how I chose the components for my system.
The pan design will help determine how many scavenge sections will be needed on the pump. My pan has notches for the O.E. front crossmember and made it neccesary to use 3 scavenge points. From my observations and talks with more experienced dry sump folks, I determined that most drag race applications are good with between 2 and 4 scavenges. 2 require a larger tank, and 4 may be overkill in some cases, adding cost.
The pump choice will be a personal preference for the user. I have customers that had good performance from Moroso pumps, so I chose that brand. They offer a special pump for the BBF deals with a larger 1.10" pressure section which seems to work nicely. Weaver pumps have a great history of performance and their support is also very strong. Some designs use gears (Weaver) , and some use rotors (Moroso)...I have seen good performance with either type. One $$ consideration is the scavenge outlets on the pump. The latest pumps have an internal manifold to gather all of the scavenge sections outlets and provide one #16 return line back to the tank. Earlier pumps required individual #12 lines or a separate $$ manifold to convert them to a single #16 return.
The tank design is also important. A tank with a removable top is very good to allow routine cleaning. Moroso and others will custom design a tank to fit your needs. I really like the one they made for me with a removable 0-ring sealed top cover.
Screened scavenge fittings for the pan are very nice. The fittings are great for catching things like slivers of valve springs and other harmful debris from reaching the pump. It is another good inspection point for your engine.
You need to decide which side of the engine to install the pump and how it will plumb. This takes careful study and planning to save money on hose, fittings and your accesssory mounting setup on the motor plate. Determining where to mount the remote oil filter also takes planning. Its is good to make all of your lines gravity drain when the filter is removed during an oil change.
It is good to spend some phone time talking with folks like Moroso, or Weaver to help lay out the best system for your car. There are more out there, but these are the ones that I am familiar with.
A typical aluminum custom drag pan will be $750 to $900, tanks will be in the $500 range and the pump will be in the $1200 range. The plumbing, drive system, filter and mount will add several hundreds of $$ more.
I hope this helps to give you things to consider on choosing a system.
Thanks,
Keith