Chassis rotisserie question

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Chassis rotisserie question

Post  JBR-3 on January 5th 2012, 10:48 pm

Not sure if this is in the proper section, but here goes....
I want to get a handle on what a unibody hulk weighs, no motor, no doors, no fenders, etc.
I know guys usually do this for restoration work, don't know if race chassis shops
ever use rotisseries for anything.
So what does a totally stripped down Fox body weigh ? How about a mid-sized unibody hulk
like a 60's Torino ?
Thinking about building my own rotisserie. Essentially need two big glorified engine stands
with bumper mounts and some long rails to connect them. Need four big solid rubber wheels
to roll the whole mess around.
If a big block Mustang weighs 3700 pounds, is the bare unibody around 1000 pounds ?
Thanks guys,
JB Rossit

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Re: Chassis rotisserie question

Post  billandlori on January 6th 2012, 1:38 am

I would imagine 1,000lbs would be lots. You might consider steel wheels, even the solid rubber ones will flat spot and make it hard to roll.

Good luck!

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Re: Chassis rotisserie question

Post  dfree383 on January 6th 2012, 7:01 am

I agree with using the steel wheels and I'd build it to take about 3 time what you thing the body will weigh to give you a substantial safety margine for climbing in the car and junk that will accumulate. do a little surfing on the wed and get some pictures of some of the commercial stuff.

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Re: Chassis rotisserie question

Post  Doug Rahn on January 6th 2012, 9:55 am

Here's are some photos of the one I built shortly after I finished building my shop. I had the Foxbody on it too.






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Re: Chassis rotisserie question

Post  Doug Rahn on January 7th 2012, 6:49 am

I found one with the Foxbody on it and how I attached it to the rotisserie in the front, the back was same the same way using the bumper mounts.


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Re: Chassis rotisserie question

Post  Dave Maxwell on January 7th 2012, 10:40 am

Hey Doug. What did you coat your floor with and do you like it?

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Re: Chassis rotisserie question

Post  Doug Rahn on January 7th 2012, 5:37 pm

U-Coat It. Considering all the abuse I have put it through, it is holding up pretty good.

http://www.ucoatit.com/2011web/main.htm

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Re: Chassis rotisserie question

Post  Dave Maxwell on January 7th 2012, 5:58 pm

Thanks Doug. New building going up this spring and want to coat floor before I move tools in. Will be getting a rotisserie at that time also

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Re: Chassis rotisserie question

Post  DILLIGASDAVE on January 7th 2012, 7:03 pm

Another vote for steel wheels. Some rubber & urethane wheels can flat-spot & split at these proposed weights. I was surprised how quickly the new urethane wheels I put on my heavy Tig welder started to split & shed layers of material.

I don't have/use a rotisserie. But if I did I guess about the only time I would be against using one is during the initial welding on a body/cage/chassis assembly that is only tacked together at the time. The assembly really needs to have at least 65-75% of each weld joint done before taking a car off the stands (or jig table) & putting it on a rotisserie.

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Re: Chassis rotisserie question

Post  Doug Rahn on January 7th 2012, 8:01 pm

The only welding I do on the rotisserie are plug welding holes and some sheet metal, depending on what it is. I almost forgot, no problem with poly tires on the wheels I have, about 8 years old now.

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Re: Chassis rotisserie question

Post  Mike R on January 10th 2012, 12:52 am

We replaced the steel wheels on our shop rotisserie with 8" air filled rubber. We max inflate them to ease the bounce and they work really well, makes it easy to push around in the dirt when sand blasting.

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