Oil weight?

I'm no pro by any means, but I can say from experience on my specific motor with similar clearences that I switched from 20w50 to 10w30 and I picked up a few hp on the dyno. Been running the truck like that spinning the 466 to 7200 rpm every pass and quite a few hits with the nitrous for the last 2 years and the bearings still look new. As long as your motor is set up right, it'll be good. I change the oil every other race (3-4 200' passes per race) and looks good and barely used. I keep with that routine just to be safe though.

kjett wrote:I'm no pro by any means, but I can say from experience on my specific motor with similar clearences that I switched from 20w50 to 10w30 and I picked up a few hp on the dyno. Been running the truck like that spinning the 466 to 7200 rpm every pass and quite a few hits with the nitrous for the last 2 years and the bearings still look new. As long as your motor is set up right, it'll be good. I change the oil every other race (3-4 200' passes per race) and looks good and barely used. I keep with that routine just to be safe though.

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Karl,When we were at the seminar ,Lake Speed Jr.(oil expert for Joe Gibbs racing)spoke about oil and when to change it. He said IF your oil Looked,smelled,and if the filter looked good after cutting it open. Just install a new filter,adjust oil level,and your good to go. That would save us lots of money on oil changes. imo,this sounds logical.

FORDMUD wrote:Rods at .0022-.0026
Mains at .0032-.0036Canton 7qt pan
High volume pump
528 in a mud truck. 5500-6200 rpm

I was considering the Supreme 7000 20w50 racing oil

Opinions???

With the main numbers you post, and as another has replied, the oil weights you've chosen seem OK. Do you pre-heat the oil?

Dave.

bbf-falcon wrote:

kjett wrote:I'm no pro by any means, but I can say from experience on my specific motor with similar clearences that I switched from 20w50 to 10w30 and I picked up a few hp on the dyno. Been running the truck like that spinning the 466 to 7200 rpm every pass and quite a few hits with the nitrous for the last 2 years and the bearings still look new. As long as your motor is set up right, it'll be good. I change the oil every other race (3-4 200' passes per race) and looks good and barely used. I keep with that routine just to be safe though.

\

Karl,When we were at the seminar ,Lake Speed Jr.(oil expert for Joe Gibbs racing)spoke about oil and when to change it. He said IF your oil Looked,smelled,and if the filter looked good after cutting it open. Just install a new filter,adjust oil level,and your good to go. That would save us lots of money on oil changes. imo,this sounds logical.

I thought he also said we should always use a race synthetic. I have been to O'Reillys and looked at the Royal Purple and Valvoline VR-1 Full synthetic race oil and it is around $9 per qt. I've always run the 20W-50 valvoline VR-1. Im not sure what weight to run now. Gonna put the mains at .003 and the rods .026 on a 499 race motor.......

FORDMUD wrote:
With my past engine(lots cheaper) I just waited until the water temp was about 180 before running. With this new engine I intend to monitor engine oil temp. I wasn't planning on running a heater though. What will be a good temp to shoot for before a run?

It seems in a normally aspirated engine suited for brief maximum effort periods of operations, 200* of oil temperature seem to be optimum (starting point). If your engine's air/fuel mixture is correct for full power runs, I would consider not heating the coolant. Also as mentioned, synthetic oils are preferable to me as well, they seem to flow quicker and aren't affected by cool temperatures as petroleum base versions.

Dave.

Moodyblues wrote:

bbf-falcon wrote:

kjett wrote:I'm no pro by any means, but I can say from experience on my specific motor with similar clearences that I switched from 20w50 to 10w30 and I picked up a few hp on the dyno. Been running the truck like that spinning the 466 to 7200 rpm every pass and quite a few hits with the nitrous for the last 2 years and the bearings still look new. As long as your motor is set up right, it'll be good. I change the oil every other race (3-4 200' passes per race) and looks good and barely used. I keep with that routine just to be safe though.

\

Karl,When we were at the seminar ,Lake Speed Jr.(oil expert for Joe Gibbs racing)spoke about oil and when to change it. He said IF your oil Looked,smelled,and if the filter looked good after cutting it open. Just install a new filter,adjust oil level,and your good to go. That would save us lots of money on oil changes. imo,this sounds logical.

I thought he also said we should always use a race synthetic. I have been to O'Reillys and looked at the Royal Purple and Valvoline VR-1 Full synthetic race oil and it is around $9 per qt. I've always run the 20W-50 valvoline VR-1. Im not sure what weight to run now. Gonna put the mains at .003 and the rods .026 on a 499 race motor.......

I ask him that w/those same bearing clearances on the breakout session. He said a good full syn. at 20w.

FORDMUD wrote:



So, I really need some sort of oil pan heater?

With the details we have discussed, a means to heat the oil before a pull would be my preference.

Dave.