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Post  johndickjr on March 28th 2012, 9:00 pm

would it hurt the bell housing if i cut a small part out of the bell housing on the bottom side..just enough to get a wrench on the back side of the flywheel to hold a nut...the converter i bought has stripped holes..even new it had only about 3 threads(BTE) converter..so i had to drill some holes and move them out and use a nut..but have no way to tighten them up...or option number 2 i can have a stud welded on..

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Post  richter69 on March 28th 2012, 9:35 pm

The JW ultrabells are open at the bottom, but they are a lot thicker also. I dont know if it would hurt it, if anything use a holesaw...the smallest one possible.
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Post  johndickjr on March 28th 2012, 9:46 pm

richter69 wrote:The JW ultrabells are open at the bottom, but they are a lot thicker also. I dont know if it would hurt it, if anything use a holesaw...the smallest one possible.
i will try that..

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Post  cool40 on March 28th 2012, 9:58 pm

i always work through the starter hole if i had to.
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Post  johndickjr on March 28th 2012, 10:00 pm

cool40 wrote:i always work through the starter hole if i had to.
tired that..cant get a wrench in there...guess i could bend it 90 degrees

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Post  cool40 on March 28th 2012, 10:43 pm

johndickjr wrote:
cool40 wrote:i always work through the starter hole if i had to.
tired that..cant get a wrench in there...guess i could bend it 90 degrees
yep,done that too and cut one of the gooseneck boxed end deals in half.are they 7/16?if not then drill and tap to 7/16 and open up the holes in the plate.i've had converters with nuts welded on the backside too.
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Post  johndickjr on March 28th 2012, 10:45 pm

cool40 wrote:
johndickjr wrote:
cool40 wrote:i always work through the starter hole if i had to.
tired that..cant get a wrench in there...guess i could bend it 90 degrees
yep,done that too and cut one of the gooseneck boxed end deals in half.are they 7/16?if not then drill and tap to 7/16 and open up the holes in the plate.i've had converters with nuts welded on the backside too.
just talked to a buddy..said he can weld a stud or weld a nut on the back side..either one will work..i guess..lol

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Post  cool40 on March 28th 2012, 10:48 pm

johndickjr wrote:
cool40 wrote:
johndickjr wrote:
cool40 wrote:i always work through the starter hole if i had to.
tired that..cant get a wrench in there...guess i could bend it 90 degrees
yep,done that too and cut one of the gooseneck boxed end deals in half.are they 7/16?if not then drill and tap to 7/16 and open up the holes in the plate.i've had converters with nuts welded on the backside too.
just talked to a buddy..said he can weld a stud or weld a nut on the back side..either one will work..i guess..lol
if its out then go for it.i'd tac a nut on it,the stud may not like welding,JMO.bolt the nuts down so they'll be in place. Wink
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Post  richter69 on March 28th 2012, 11:08 pm

most converters have the bolts welded or tacked on the backside, or use studs. This and not cutting the bell would be best IMO.
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Post  powerstrokeace on April 15th 2012, 11:13 am

I've never seen a FORD converter that didn't have studs for the mounting points on the converter. I'd say you have something wrong just to start..

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Post  Frank Merkl on April 15th 2012, 6:11 pm

drill a hole in the bottom with a hole saw won't hurt a thing
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Post  johndickjr on April 15th 2012, 6:33 pm

powerstrokeace wrote:I've never seen a FORD converter that didn't have studs for the mounting points on the converter. I'd say you have something wrong just to start..

Ace
all converters i have ever seen that had any stall to it had no stud but a nut..i end up having a nut welded on it..

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Post  Frank Merkl on April 15th 2012, 9:36 pm

I lock nut them all an the back side and after tire shake they still will come loose!
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Post  whitefield on April 16th 2012, 9:18 am

Frank Merkl wrote:drill a hole in the bottom with a hole saw won't hurt a thing
Frank

Only if you have too ! X2 with what Frank said
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