Cylinder Head Gurs..... need opinions.

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Post  Tennessee Bullitt on December 4th 2012, 10:51 pm

What is you opinions on these ports that have been worked. The heads are a set of D3VE's that are pre-emission, no thermo passages drilled in the head. Do the ports look good or bad?
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Post  dfree383 on December 5th 2012, 7:44 am

Looks like an OK backyard port job. Needs a better valve job.
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Post  Tennessee Bullitt on December 5th 2012, 7:55 am

It has no valve job. The heads are all factory. I know the ports look a little ruff. I was curious how the shape of the runners were looking. Last time I got agressive on a D3 I messed up. Is there anything that could use attention. I do not want a all out race head. just looking to make the ports better for a decent flowing head. I need to get some pics in the sun to see them better. I have followed Scotts porting instructions.
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Post  Tennessee Bullitt on December 5th 2012, 8:03 am

I figure if I can get these heads to work pretty good, then these with a good valve job and put it on a .030 to .060 over short block wih about 10 to 1 compression and a rpm air gap or stealth manifold, good carb and a built cam. A stall and C6 should be great to get my 63 galaxie running decent. Looking to run about 6,000 rpms or so. Nothing crazy, just a good strong running hot rod.
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Post  c.evans on December 5th 2012, 12:07 pm

As far as looks go, they look okay. However, you can never go by how the heads "look". They need to be flow tested in to judge whether they are good or not.

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Post  Paul Kane on December 5th 2012, 1:11 pm

The work looks like a good job of smoothening/opening up the ports. The guide boss in the intake bowl can be raised 0.200" or more. On the exhaust port roof, be careful on the side of the roof that is favored by the Thermactor bump because once the bump is gone and you continue rasing the roof you are dangerously close to the water jacket--it's not important to raise that side of the roof so much because the exiting exhaust gases favor the opposing wall/roof area in the running engine. In the interest of consistency, use calipers to take detailed measurements of your best port and duplicate it on down the line in both heads.

That level of work could be good for perhaps 500 hp if the OEM D3VE valve train were capable of handling a camshaft that could accomodate what's been exectuted thus far.

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Post  Tennessee Bullitt on December 5th 2012, 6:56 pm

Thanks guys for your all input. I am just looking to open the heads up so the engine can move air a little better than what it was from the factory. I will get the heads checked and everything set. I wanted to do one port to see how it would turn out before I really got into the heads. This is my first real crack at factory iron and I figure mabe a $1,000 or so in this motor. Just a good setup for my old classic. Nothing fancy, because I still have my mustang I am going to build a monster for. I will make adjustments like you said paul, thanks.

Hey uncle charlie, I posted a pic in my post in the general discussion. It is primer, but I am going to a grey paint job. Kind of what it looks like in the photo. I think this car will be a real cool factor. Not many 63's running around. I basicaly got the car for free. It is solid as anything. Very Happy
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