Soldering .

Thought I'd start a thread on this to get opinions and techniques. The 65 was wired ok, but I decided to cut out some butt connectors and solder the splices. I'm using a soldering gun instead of a pencil and found a magnetized alligator clip device to hold both wires in place while you solder...... After looking at some of the cars at the track it appears to me a lot of guys probably don't know how to solder or they don't care about it...... Either way , to me it's good knowing a bad connection will never cause a problem that will take hours to trace .

Dave C. wrote:Thought I'd start a thread on this to get opinions and techniques. The 65 was wired ok, but I decided to cut out some butt connectors and solder the splices. I'm using a soldering gun instead of a pencil and found a magnetized alligator clip device to hold both wires in place while you solder...... After looking at some of the cars at the track it appears to me a lot of guys probably don't know how to solder or they don't care about it...... Either way , to me it's good knowing a bad connection will never cause a problem that will take hours to trace .

I see a lot of wires twisted together and black tape...............

A small butane or propane torch is a bunch faster than a soldering gun. 2X on the shrink tubing.

If you solder, make sure the wire is supported. They do become brittle due to the stiffness.

Guilty of the butt connectors, but the twisting is ridiculous. At least use wire nuts! That said, I end up usually rushing and crimp as a time saver. The alligator clip seems obvious, but I've never even thought about it. Neato, thanks.

Summit sells em ... Magnetic soldering clamp ( 12 bucks)

all my stuff is soldered and heat shrinked, even the crimped on eyelets etc.

richter69 wrote: all my stuff is soldered and heat shrinked, even the crimped on eyelets etc.

From what I gather, it's cuz your a HerO or something.  

Get one of those cute little butane fueled soldering gun/torches.  They're about $20 at Radio Shack and other places.  It's MUCH hotter and faster than an electric soldering gun, fits in your shirt pocket like a fat pen, needs no cords, gets into tight spots and will even solder HEAVY gauge wires. comes with a soldering tip and a small torch tip.  Greatest little tool ever invented.  Also heats your shrink tubing after the soldering's done.

Curt wrote:If you solder, make sure the wire is supported. They do become brittle due to the stiffness.

X 1000
The heat also causes the wire to be brittle.

I will also add anything pulling many amps should not be soldered.  That's when compression (not crimp) lug and butts should be used.

richter69 wrote:all my stuff is soldered and heat shrinked, even the crimped on eyelets etc.

mechanics are used to doing it right the first time

maverick wrote:Get one of those cute little butane fueled soldering gun/torches.  They're about $20 at Radio Shack and other places.  It's MUCH hotter and faster than an electric soldering gun, fits in your shirt pocket like a fat pen, needs no cords, gets into tight spots and will even solder HEAVY gauge wires. comes with a soldering tip and a small torch tip.  Greatest little tool ever invented.   Also heats your shrink tubing after the soldering's done.

I love my little torch. Good for other stuff too.

Jess

Diggindeeper wrote:

Curt wrote:If you solder, make sure the wire is supported. They do become brittle due to the stiffness.

X 1000
The heat also causes the wire to be brittle.

I will also add anything pulling many amps should not be soldered.  That's when compression (not crimp) lug and butts should be used.

Why is this? Too much amperage soften solder?

Diggindeeper wrote:

Curt wrote:If you solder, make sure the wire is supported. They do become brittle due to the stiffness.

X 1000
The heat also causes the wire to be brittle.

I will also add anything pulling many amps should not be soldered.  That's when compression (not crimp) lug and butts should be used.

.

you ever look at the battery side end of the cable

Dave C. wrote:Thought I'd start a thread on this to get opinions and techniques. The 65 was wired ok, but I decided to cut out some butt connectors and solder the splices. I'm using a soldering gun instead of a pencil and found a magnetized alligator clip device to hold both wires in place while you solder...... After looking at some of the cars at the track it appears to me a lot of guys probably don't know how to solder or they don't care about it...... Either way , to me it's good knowing a bad connection will never cause a problem that will take hours to trace .

Keep up the good work! The size (amperage rating) of your soldering device should be determined by the work. Oh by the way, a flame type of soldering device may not be the best under the dash!

Dave.

Inside the car is finished.. Waiting to set the engine in it to finish the wiring under the hood...

Make sure to use rosin core solder.

J.Toney wrote:

Diggindeeper wrote:

Curt wrote:If you solder, make sure the wire is supported. They do become brittle due to the stiffness.

X 1000
The heat also causes the wire to be brittle.

I will also add anything pulling many amps should not be soldered.  That's when compression (not crimp) lug and butts should be used.

Why is this? Too much amperage soften solder?

Yes. Eventually

DanH wrote:

Diggindeeper wrote:

Curt wrote:If you solder, make sure the wire is supported. They do become brittle due to the stiffness.

X 1000
The heat also causes the wire to be brittle.

I will also add anything pulling many amps should not be soldered.  That's when compression (not crimp) lug and butts should be used.

.

you ever look at the battery side end of the cable

Battery cables are not soldered.
Compressed lug with anti oxidizing compound

Diggindeeper wrote:

J.Toney wrote:

Diggindeeper wrote:

Curt wrote:If you solder, make sure the wire is supported. They do become brittle due to the stiffness.

X 1000
The heat also causes the wire to be brittle.

I will also add anything pulling many amps should not be soldered.  That's when compression (not crimp) lug and butts should be used.

Why is this? Too much amperage soften solder?

Yes. Eventually

What would be considered "too many"? Just curious. I'm guessing there is a amps/wire gauge rule to this?

Another two opinions if I may. I've been using the crimp type battery cable ends for years although instead of crimping them I place the end in a vise, heat and fill to about 75% with solder then slightly heat the stripped cable and push the cable into the cable end. Works great and makes a nice looking and serviceable connection. It would seem to me if a cable (regardless of size) is overheating to the point of effecting solder's value, or heating the cable itself, the cable size and/or the cable's connections may not be applied correctly.

Dave.

^^^^ this is how I have done all my battery terminal ends for a long time now, never a provlem in all the years i been doing it..

J.Toney wrote:

Diggindeeper wrote:

J.Toney wrote:

Diggindeeper wrote:

Curt wrote:If you solder, make sure the wire is supported. They do become brittle due to the stiffness.

X 1000
The heat also causes the wire to be brittle.

I will also add anything pulling many amps should not be soldered.  That's when compression (not crimp) lug and butts should be used.

Why is this? Too much amperage soften solder?

Yes. Eventually

What would be considered "too many"? Just curious. I'm guessing there is a amps/wire gauge rule to this?

My rule of thumb is not scientific, however I can get good quality barrel lugs with a compression tool that works well starting at #8 guage, so that's what I do. I know you can go higher without issue, however I think an exact number of amps is probably a scientific answer taking type of solder, amount etc into account.


Fwiw solder was used in overload blocks for electric motor starters to trip them under overload conditions for many years.

I'm thinking if the solder gets hot enough to lose its connection the car is probably on fire and it really doesn't matter.