Wiring info

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Wiring info

Post  bigjohn2007 on March 25th 2014, 8:07 pm

What is the piece called that mounts thru fire wall that ties in the 12 volts from the battery to the solenoid under the hood?It has nuts on both sides so you can hook cables together thru firewall.
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Re: Wiring info

Post  nuclearcobra on March 25th 2014, 8:17 pm

Firewall feedthrough ? im not sure if that's right , im thinking of the msd piece that hooks to the coil I think
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Re: Wiring info

Post  nuclearcobra on March 25th 2014, 8:19 pm

Your talking a remote battery junction I bet.
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Re: Wiring info

Post  bigjohn2007 on March 25th 2014, 8:23 pm

Yea that it thanks..........
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Re: Wiring info

Post  jasonf on March 26th 2014, 8:02 am

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Re: Wiring info

Post  whatbumper on March 26th 2014, 10:05 am

We don't like those.  We would rather run a grommet and a continuous wire.

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Re: Wiring info

Post  richter69 on March 26th 2014, 1:04 pm

I made one..... works great
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Re: Wiring info

Post  bruno on March 26th 2014, 1:41 pm

whatbumper wrote:We don't like those.  We would rather run a grommet and a continuous wire.

x2
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Re: Wiring info

Post  maverick on March 27th 2014, 9:16 am

bruno wrote:
whatbumper wrote:We don't like those.  We would rather run a grommet and a continuous wire.

x2

X3. One firewall stud = 2 more connections to give possible grief.
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Re: Wiring info

Post  whatbumper on March 27th 2014, 9:29 am

They also create electrical noise and with all of the computers we deal with that is not a good thing.

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Re: Wiring info

Post  jasonf on March 27th 2014, 11:56 am

whatbumper wrote:They also create electrical noise and with all of the computers we deal with that is not a good thing.

That is good to know.

I am a ground freak so I run a ground off the battery to the truck floor or/and the frame. Then I also run a ground cable to the front of the car. I'll use one of these around the firewall area to tie all the grounds together at the front of the car. (engine, body, frame and under dash electronics). I know it is overkill but when trying to troubleshoot electronics poor grounds can be very difficult to find. Electronic devices can do all kinds of crazy things that are not consistent and you end up chasing your tail thinking it is a different problem every time when it is actually just a poor ground.
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Re: Wiring info

Post  bigjohn2007 on March 29th 2014, 11:52 am

I decided it was best just run to the solenoid instead of having a break in the cable.thanks
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Re: Wiring info

Post  richter69 on March 29th 2014, 3:37 pm

guess Im lucky w both cars and all yhe ones Ive done in the past........


I do use floating grounds everywhere, the pickup from the crank trigger and the output from the 8plus box to the coil are shielded also.
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Re: Wiring info

Post  whatbumper on March 29th 2014, 4:08 pm

richter69 wrote:guess Im lucky w both cars and all yhe ones Ive done in the past........


I do use floating grounds everywhere, the pickup from the crank trigger and the output from the 8plus box to the coil are shielded also.
You're just a badass.  Cool

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Re: Wiring info

Post  richter69 on March 29th 2014, 9:37 pm

I concur....
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Re: Wiring info

Post  DILLIGASDAVE on March 30th 2014, 1:43 am

I have used both methods to get a battery cable through the firewall and both do work good, but neither is 100% fail safe.

The firewall passthrough lug setup's studs/nuts can sometimes loosen from vibration. And it's plastic body can deteriorate over time (from heat and the effects electrical loads can sometimes have on plastics) to where it can basically crack/crumble and fall apart.

The grommet & cable method can also fail due to vibration. Vibration can cause the sharp edge of a drilled hole in the firewall to eventually cut through the grommet it's self and then start chewing on the cable.

Another ancient option for getting a cable through a firewall was using the old quick release push/pull welding cable lugs. A lot of the Pro Stock guys (and similar classes) used them to help make between round engine swaps faster since you don't need any tools. Their down side was they could (and often did) come unhooked at the wrong time from vibration.



As for grounding the system I think too many people mistakenly rely on the aluminum motor/mid plates as their engine's only ground path to the chassis. I have never had to run a full length ground cable from a rear mounted battery to the engine, I have always just used the chassis it's self with no problems. But I do usually used either the engine travel limiters, or a short ground cable from the block to the chassis, to take the motor/mid plates out of the grounding picture.
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