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Boom, goes the oil filter

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69F100
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Post  bbf-falcon July 31st 2014, 1:11 pm

Bigred69 wrote:Well folks, I really don't think the filter or installation of it is the el problemo. I think I just have a bad relief valve in the oil pump. I have changed the oil in my vehicles and heavy equipment for years, so installation of an oil filter is not an issue. But, thanks for the help.

I also think you will find your problem in the relief spring. Good Luck Wink 

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Post  Bigred69 July 31st 2014, 1:23 pm

Thanks Kim and everyone else for the help. I will get the oil pump out ,and post my findings.
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Post  maverick August 4th 2014, 7:36 pm

Update?
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Post  Bigred69 August 4th 2014, 7:47 pm

Yep, sorry guys been busy. I got the oil pump out and new one in. Crank her up and she ran at 75psi oil pressure at 1700 rpm,for a few minutes , then oil pressure went to 68 psi. One problem. My motor was getting a little too warm (205) , so I shut it down after 15 minutes to trace why it was getting hot. I found my clutch on my fan was fubar . Will I be ok after replacing it to run for another 15 or 20 minutes? I mean, having to shut it down before the cam was broke in won't harm it will it?
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Post  kim August 4th 2014, 9:29 pm

Running it at a constant RPM may have already wiped the cam out. Break in on flat tappet 1800 to 2800 Walking the RPM around. You want the lifters moving and bouncing to build an oil film between lifter and cam. You want the RPM UP so there is LOTS of oil flow. Hopefully your doing break in with hydraulic lifter or very light springs. IF so less a problem than those springs rated for solid flat tappets

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Post  maverick August 4th 2014, 10:20 pm

How fast were you spinning it while it ran? Like Kim said, keep lots of oil flying around in there. Elevated rpm also means that the crank & rods are throwing lots of oil up to the cam.

Water temp of 205 ain't a big deal...it doesn't mean that the oil was too hot, especially in a fairly short run time.
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Post  Bigred69 August 5th 2014, 7:09 am

This is not an aggressive build. It is pretty much stock build. I did rev the motor a few times, but not for minutes at a time. I will be cranking it up tonight , and will make sure to vary the RPM's .
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Post  Bigred69 August 6th 2014, 7:00 am

Well, here is what I have seen. I pulled the oil pan last night. I see some stuff in there that looks like ground up pencil lead, and also has a slight metallic look to it. The motor is on my shop floor jacked up about a foot off the floor. I shined a flash light up there to get a look at the lobes on the cam. I can't see any scratching on the lobes that I could see, but I guess that doesn't mean much. I think I need to un hook The tranny and get the motor back on the stand and pull the intake, so I can pull some lifters out of this thing. Possibly pull a rod cap and make sure nothing is going on there. Man, I'm just sick . If I've wiped the cam out, I'm considering going to roller lifters and shorter push rods. It's crazy how delicate flat tappet cams are. I was trying to be so carefully,because I read so many horror stories about folks wiping the lobes on fresh builds. Also, I found what appears to be a piece of an o ring material in the pan. When I looked at the old oil pump I found an o ring missing from themselves valve. What a mess. Any advice would help me so much.
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Post  supervel45 August 6th 2014, 8:05 am

Did you check and see if the "metallic stuff" will stick to a magnet? It could be alot of other things besides the cam, including old material if the block was not cleaned good when it was rebuilt.

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Post  Bigred69 August 6th 2014, 8:11 am

Yes, some of it did stick to a magnet. No sliver type pieces, but just dust, is about the only way to describe it.
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Post  cool40 August 6th 2014, 9:27 am

Flat tappet cams suck imo.funny thing is how we never had to do all these special tricks to use one 20 yr ago.you put it in with oil on it and run it however you wanted to.now we have synthetic this and that, all kinds of $$ oil but it wont lube a cam.I still think the cams are not hard enough.
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Post  Bigred69 August 6th 2014, 9:38 am

There is definitely no copper  in the oil. And the metallic I see looks as if someone poured a little metallic silver paint in my oil. I have read on other forums that it could also be residue from machining and from the cam edges wearing in. Too much info on the internet. Hahaha. The motor runs as it should, but just not sure what to do at this point. I'm going to cut the filter apart this evening also, and have a look.
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Post  kim August 6th 2014, 12:11 pm

If its running fine. Button up, and beat the snot out of it. If something is wrong.. deal with it.

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Post  69F100 August 6th 2014, 12:28 pm

Change the oil and run it again just dont get on it real hard rev it a few good time put another 30 mins of run time then change the oil and filter again and see what it looks like.
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Post  Bigred69 August 6th 2014, 12:35 pm

kim wrote:If its running fine.  Button up, and beat the snot out of it.  If something is wrong.. deal with it.


Dammit man, not sure I want to have to just deal with a fubar motor, but I understand what you are saying. Gonna drain the oil again , and give it a go. ThnKs
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Post  cool40 August 6th 2014, 1:42 pm

I'd sure cut the filter open. You may get a real awakening! I have found that junk in the filter is not always a big deal, that is what it's for. Junk in the oil means your engine is making junk all the time and will fail soon.your engine being new and hardly ran would make it hard to say.chang filter and oil then run it.after another warm up cut the filter and check it out.
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Post  Bigred69 August 6th 2014, 7:44 pm

Ok, here is what my oil looks like that I drained. Out of the pan the other day. Kind of hard to see. I tried to get some light on it. It almost looks like a pearlescent looking oil. No chunks or pieces. Just real fine swirls in clean oil. Well, I guess I don't know how post a photo.
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Post  Frank Merkl August 6th 2014, 8:11 pm

the pearlescents is normal just the motor breaking in
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Post  bbf-falcon August 6th 2014, 8:56 pm

Run it.

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Post  maverick August 7th 2014, 10:00 am

cool40 wrote: Flat tappet cams suck imo.funny thing is how we never had to do all these special tricks to use one 20 yr ago.you put it in with oil on it and run it however you wanted to.now we have synthetic this and that, all kinds of $$ oil but it wont lube a cam.I still think the cams are not hard enough.

It's another damned environmental issue.  The gubmint has taken most of the good slippery stuff out of our oils (mostly the zinc) saying it's an environmental hazard.  They figure nobody cares since new car maufacturers aren't making the old flat tappet stuff anymore. That leaves guys like us with a choice of going the high dollar roller cam route or risking the high dollar "do it over" route.

We gotta be real careful with break in spring pressures, lubricants and break-in procedures as a result.  Everybody oughta do a google search on the zinc content of their favorite oils.  I found that the 15W50 grade of Mobil 1 has a lot more zinc than their other grades.  I use it in everything, race cars included.  They also have some really good race only oils (they have a 0W50) that's not available at parts stores, (gubmint doesn't want it in general use) but you can find it online and buy it in cases and drums only.  Be sure to sit down before you check out the price.  BTW, O'Reilly's periodically has a sale on Mobil1 with a price that'll make WalMart jealous.  I watch for it and load up on 15W50 then.

And so....light break-in springs, lotsa slippery snot, meticulous break-in procedure and a rabbit's foot are your best bet.
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Post  Bigred69 August 7th 2014, 11:31 am

I use Quaker state , and Lucas high Zinc for break in.
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Post  Bigred69 August 12th 2014, 11:45 am

Ok, guys and gals, I ran the motor last night for about 22 minutes , varying RPM's between 2000-2800 with a few around 3000. The motor ran very good, and was steady with no misses, hiccups, or stumbles. I shut her down and immediately drained the oil and pulled the filter. The oil was very clean with no signs of anything other than oil in it. The filter was also very clean. I feel a lot better about dropping this motor in the car now. The oil I drained kind of separated and looked like a brain in the bucket. But you can stick your finger in there and it's clean oil. I also dropped a large magnet in a baggy and laid it down at the bottom of the bucket. No signs of anything in the oil. I'm in the clear. Now gotta message the fire wall on the Fairlane before installation, because the tranny is very close to it. Thanks for all the help.
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Post  maverick August 12th 2014, 11:50 am

Massage the firewall...as in "percussion adjustments"? Razz 
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Post  Bigred69 August 12th 2014, 11:54 am

maverick wrote:Massage the firewall...as in "percussion adjustments"? Razz 

Exactly. Actually, I plan on cutting a section out of it , and just fabbing another piece to go in its place. Would look better, and I think easier to do.
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Post  bbf-falcon August 12th 2014, 12:29 pm

goodluck with it.

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