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Budget Street/Strip Stroker Build Advice w/ Existing Parts plus???

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the Coug
maverick
butterbean
dfree383
Dark Horse of Apocalypse
gmsmkr
rmcomprandy
FalconEh
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Post  Dave De September 6th 2014, 10:59 pm

[quote="FalconEh"]
Dave De wrote:Hey Falcon,
We are similar, my pro-street runs 9.20s in good air at 148mph on motor and the street cant take the power but at the track I could use a shot to put it into the 8s. I cant put my foot to the wood without it going up in smoke even at 70mph.
I wonder how these street racers do it. They must have aluminum small blocks to reduce the nose weight.

If my track was an hour away I'd still trailer it.

Hey Dave De,
 What is your take on the buy/build knowing what it is and where I am going with it...as the description says your opinion counts!
[/quote
I dont know what the trouble is here with all the controversy. If you want to go low 9s on spray then biuld your pump gas motor to run 10.0s
A 4 bolt factory block will be best and the stroke should be 4.15 to 4.3 forged with 6.7 or 6.8 h beams. SCJs will work but if you can go P-51s all the more being better. You could also use a flat tappet while leaving some on the table for longevity. ]
Dave De
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Post  FalconEh September 6th 2014, 11:22 pm

Dave De wrote:
FalconEh wrote:
Dave De wrote:Hey Falcon,
We are similar, my pro-street runs 9.20s in good air at 148mph on motor and the street cant take the power but at the track I could use a shot to put it into the 8s. I cant put my foot to the wood without it going up in smoke even at 70mph.
I wonder how these street racers do it. They must have aluminum small blocks to reduce the nose weight.

If my track was an hour away I'd still trailer it.

Hey Dave De,
 What is your take on the buy/build knowing what it is and where I am going with it...as the description says your opinion counts!
[/quote
I dont know what the trouble is here with all the controversy. If you want to go low 9s on spray then biuld your pump gas motor to run 10.0s
A 4 bolt factory block will be best and the stroke should be 4.15 to 4.3 forged with 6.7 or 6.8 h beams. SCJs will work but if you can go P-51s all the more being better. You could also use a flat tappet while leaving some on the table for longevity. ]
Got a little sideways, Thank-You - I will have to see where the cyl head budget ends up, don't mind the solids still need to fly cut for roller but the cam will be a later topic...

FalconEh
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Post  dfree383 September 7th 2014, 1:06 am

Is coug still happy? cheers
dfree383
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Post  richter69 September 7th 2014, 1:31 am

Never
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Post  Dave De September 7th 2014, 7:27 am

FalconEh wrote:
Dave De wrote:
FalconEh wrote:
Dave De wrote:Hey Falcon,
We are similar, my pro-street runs 9.20s in good air at 148mph on motor and the street cant take the power but at the track I could use a shot to put it into the 8s. I cant put my foot to the wood without it going up in smoke even at 70mph.
I wonder how these street racers do it. They must have aluminum small blocks to reduce the nose weight.

If my track was an hour away I'd still trailer it.

Hey Dave De,
 What is your take on the buy/build knowing what it is and where I am going with it...as the description says your opinion counts!
[/quote
I dont know what the trouble is here with all the controversy. If you want to go low 9s on spray then biuld your pump gas motor to run 10.0s
A 4 bolt factory block will be best and the stroke should be 4.15 to 4.3 forged with 6.7 or 6.8 h beams. SCJs will work but if you can go P-51s all the more being better. You could also use a flat tappet while leaving some on the table for longevity. ]
Got a little sideways, Thank-You - I will have to see where the cyl head budget ends up, don't mind the solids still need to fly cut for roller but the cam will be a later topic...

No need to cut the pistons if you by them for the heads. I think you can go low 9s without spray and still be streetable. The weight needs to be below 3000 pounds.
Dave De
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Post  FalconEh September 7th 2014, 4:07 pm

Dave De wrote:
FalconEh wrote:
Dave De wrote:
FalconEh wrote:
Dave De wrote:Hey Falcon,
We are similar, my pro-street runs 9.20s in good air at 148mph on motor and the street cant take the power but at the track I could use a shot to put it into the 8s. I cant put my foot to the wood without it going up in smoke even at 70mph.
I wonder how these street racers do it. They must have aluminum small blocks to reduce the nose weight.

If my track was an hour away I'd still trailer it.

Hey Dave De,
 What is your take on the buy/build knowing what it is and where I am going with it...as the description says your opinion counts!
[/quote
I dont know what the trouble is here with all the controversy. If you want to go low 9s on spray then biuld your pump gas motor to run 10.0s
A 4 bolt factory block will be best and the stroke should be 4.15 to 4.3 forged with 6.7 or 6.8 h beams. SCJs will work but if you can go P-51s all the more being better. You could also use a flat tappet while leaving some on the table for longevity. ]
Got a little sideways, Thank-You - I will have to see where the cyl head budget ends up, don't mind the solids still need to fly cut for roller but the cam will be a later topic...

  No need to cut the pistons if you by them for the heads. I think you can go low 9s without spray and still be streetable. The weight needs to be below 3000 pounds.

The sub 3000# may or may not happen depending on the body that materalizes' but mid -low 10's off the bottle will spray into the 9's is right in line with what I am looking for...low 9's off the bottle... The car may not be the only one in need of a diaper on the spray affraid
FalconEh
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Post  FalconEh September 7th 2014, 5:16 pm

the Coug wrote:Falcon get you a 4.3 forged crank a set of 6.8 rods and a set of .030 pistons and you have a 521 a set of SCJ heads and it will eat like a big dog good combo same money andyou will be happy...

not so happy with the .030 pistons though Wink
FalconEh
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Post  Dark Horse of Apocalypse September 8th 2014, 12:58 pm

the Coug wrote:
Dark Horse of Apocalypse wrote:A 501 costs the same to build as a 557? What about starting with a seasoned block and letting grow as needed? Eliminating the exception block that after sonic testing can actually live with a 4.5 inch bore shouldn't most overbores start at +.030 and end at +.080?


I think you should take your money and go buy a Clue those engines take almost none of the same parts except the block. they use different cranks and way different pistons so if you go smaller and decide to go bigger you have to almost start over from scratch. Now it is your money, if I were you I would forget spending it wisely and just blow the heck out of it. evidently you have a money Tree, so blow it away.....oh you are worried about the block a stock block will be the least expensive thing  in the build. do what you want what ever makes your drawers happy.

One thing I don't understand is why you guys always come here and ask questions that you evidently already know the answers too?


have a great life

Thanks for the candid explanation of the situation. Unfortunately I ain't no Silver Spoon in mouth Trust Fund Baby so "I Owe I Owe it's of to work I Go."

the Coug wrote:Hey guy just for the sake of it I have 2 534 short blocks here and I would love for you to guess how much cash I have in each one.  
If you look and wait and search for parts this is what you can build...

#1 534 scj 4 bolt block
Eagle 4340 forged crank 4.3 stroke
Eagle 6.8 H beam rods
Diamond 4.44 13.5 to 1 pistons


#2 534 Boss 429 Block
Eagle 4.3 4340 forged crank
Eagle 6.8 H beam rods  
Eagle 4.44 Hemi Pistons 13.7 to 1


Dark Horse of Apocalypse
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Post  Dark Horse of Apocalypse September 8th 2014, 1:02 pm

Dave De wrote:Hey Falcon,
We are similar, my pro-street runs 9.20s in good air at 148mph on motor and the street cant take the power but at the track I could use a shot to put it into the 8s. I cant put my foot to the wood without it going up in smoke even at 70mph.
I wonder how these street racers do it. They must have aluminum small blocks to reduce the nose weight.

If my track was an hour away I'd still trailer it.

Sounds like you have it figured out. Is the trailer preventive maintenance? I.e. If it breaks you already got its ride home??
Dark Horse of Apocalypse
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Post  DanE September 8th 2014, 1:25 pm

After reading your posts, it has become apparent that you need to do more reading/studying, and less inane posting.

DanE

Posts : 90
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Post  Dark Horse of Apocalypse September 8th 2014, 1:57 pm

DanE wrote:After reading your posts, it has become apparent that you need to do more reading/studying, and less inane posting.
With all due respect, the back ground I come from is service oriented and the only dumb question is the one unasked.

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Post  DanE September 8th 2014, 3:46 pm

[quote="Dark Horse of Apocalypse"]
DanE wrote:After reading your posts, it has become apparent that you need to do more reading/studying, and less inane posting.
With all due respect, the back ground I come from is service oriented and the only dumb question is the one unasked.

[/

Which has nothing to do with inane posting.

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