1st BBF Fox in Russia

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Post  butterbean on June 30th 2015, 11:17 am

see even a guy from Alabama can help at times LOL!!!!!!!!
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Post  norg on June 30th 2015, 12:07 pm

norg wrote:
gmsmkr wrote:Norg..what you have is a 8 pin remote TFI distributor so with that said it only needs 3 wires to run.

Hold the plug with the lock up top

1) +12v in run
2) gnd
3)TFI gnd
4) PIP to TFI
5)no hook up
6)gnd
7)EEC gnd
8)PIP to EEC

Pin layout
1 top left.       So it will go.       1234
                                                     5678

Hook 1 to 12v run power and coil positive

Hook 2 to gnd

Hook 6 to coil gnd
Thank you very much!
I will go in that way.
Still no arc (
hall sensor to be connected carefully

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1st BBF Fox in Russia - Page 2 Pbucket

There are 4 wire to hall sensor RED, GRN, GRN, BLK
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Post  gmsmkr on June 30th 2015, 12:56 pm

You can't run it by the 4cyl comp it has to be a stand alone deal .... hook 1 to switch power and make sure it has power when motor is turning over.
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Post  gmsmkr on June 30th 2015, 1:06 pm

Here is a way to wire a duraspark distributor with a gm hei mod...... if you can't get the 8 pin dis to work is much simpler

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Post  norg on July 1st 2015, 2:42 pm

gmsmkr wrote:Here is a way to wire a duraspark distributor with a gm hei mod...... if you can't get the 8 pin dis to work is much simpler

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You are absolutely right! Thank you cowboy!
Temporary I have bought here local the HEI module from LADA afro
Aaand is RUN cheers It was just 1 second, but cool )

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Post  gmsmkr on July 1st 2015, 5:55 pm

Sure glad you got it going your way Cool
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Post  Jetman on August 12th 2015, 10:46 pm

Nice build, you are doing an awesome job.
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Post  norg on August 14th 2015, 3:20 am

Jetman wrote:Nice build, you are doing an awesome job.

Thanks Jetman!
Work is ongoing (just pics):

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Post  blown86hallet on August 20th 2015, 9:57 am

Suspect is that a make shift gas can on top of the hood of the car? Classic!
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Post  bruno on August 20th 2015, 2:03 pm

looking great !!!! time to do a burnout....
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Post  maverick on August 20th 2015, 3:28 pm

blown86hallet wrote: Suspect  is that a make shift gas can on top of the hood of the car?   Classic!

If you rotate that bottle 180* it'll feed under acceleration. Razz
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Post  norg on August 21st 2015, 1:03 am

blown86hallet wrote: Suspect  is that a make shift gas can on top of the hood of the car?   Classic!
Yes sir it's classic Cool
But the holley blue already installed with new tank. The pump made in china and it's leaking.

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Post  norg on August 21st 2015, 1:13 am

bruno wrote:looking great !!!! time to do a burnout....
Tried to do that bruno Very Happy


No rear brake yet. Can't go slow afro
But i hate the exhaust sound on it. The stock GT mufflers and 2" pipe there.
I love how it sound on a truck


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Post  butterbean on August 21st 2015, 11:12 am

looks like a Russian RED NECK!!!!!!
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Post  norg on March 29th 2016, 1:01 am

Hello Gentleman,
So, got one more trouble with the engine.
The intake lifters and cams lobes are destroyed fully.
The exhaust as new.
The damages is different for all 8 pcs, some has a dish, some lightly grinded, some grinded alot 4-5 mm, and one as new.
Scorpions 1.73 rockers half ok, half has damaged bearing.
Did not open the heads yet, but looks like the intake valve catched the pistons on 5 degree ATDC.
Did a lot of measurements at this time for intake valve - and for all the way (+10 -10 degrees both side of the TDC) and no clashing, even have a gap min 4 mm. But it's not true due lobe destroyed.
The valve lift for exhaust - 14,3 mm (0,565") as per specs, for intake valve lift 8 mm (0,314") destroyed.
The springs, pushrods is ok.
Cam xe274h, dove-c, dual springs, stock pistons, rods and crank (truck '94).

What kind of the piston recommended in this case?

Have another cam in the garage - dual energy 275DEH, 275/285, @219/232. 0,515/0,541, 110.

As reason also:
1- the rockers wrong adjustment. But i could be wrong with the exhaust adjustment, but it's ok.
2- the internal spring clashing of coils, but visually there are a gap 2 mm. (measured the exhaust lift).
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Post  dfree383 on March 29th 2016, 1:29 am

Did you lube the cam properly? Prelude the engine? And run it for 20-30 minutes varying the rpm from 2000-2500 and not let it idle?
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Post  norg on March 29th 2016, 2:00 am

dfree383 wrote:Did you lube the cam properly? Prelude the engine? And run it for 20-30 minutes varying the rpm from 2000-2500 and not let it idle?
Dave,
I did a mild street build and thought it's not really necessary. Thought it's bolt on, start and drive.
When the engine been started 1 st time it's not accelerate even many hours. Because the car was in garage.
It's was sound noisy, but i never thought it's lifters. I did remove the valve covers, and found some rockers not tight, then i tighted thems (lightly to 0 lash and + 3/4 turn) and going ahead.  
Oil pressure was perfect, idling well, acceleration good... then low pressure, noising ... and now disaster )
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Post  norg on March 29th 2016, 2:39 am

dfree383 wrote:Did you lube the cam properly? Prelude the engine? And run it for 20-30 minutes varying the rpm from 2000-2500 and not let it idle?
oh and yes, lubricated all parts properly. It's only stay before start up half year, covered by plastic film.
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Post  jbozzelle on April 6th 2016, 1:53 pm

So, with your new cam installed you started it and let it idle?

If you did that it chewed up the lobes and you have the problem you have now.


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Post  norg on April 7th 2016, 5:26 am

jbozzelle wrote:So, with your new cam installed you started it and let it idle?

If you did that it chewed up the lobes and you have the problem you have now.


Did again lot's of measurements. Min 3 mm gap between piston and intake valve for range TDC to 10 ATDC.
Found - the the difference of the springs length. Exhaust longer for 0.8 mm. But with full compression there are enough gap.
So - install single springs, new lifters - held 2000 rpm during start up 15 minutes.
Sound ok.
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