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Is there anymore left in my 60ft?

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gmsmkr
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Post  85bigblockfox February 26th 2015, 11:27 am

supervel45 wrote:With those numbers, it came out at 1.515 60FT, and 469 est. RWHP. These are all general estimates and then you also have different dynos also. Do you have any wheelspin?

No wheelspin but those numbers are from when the ati converter was in there. I don't know if the numbers would change with the new converter. It also had open headers at that time. Now it has exhaust and mufflers.
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Post  supervel45 February 26th 2015, 11:49 am

The RPM through the Traps can be used with the sims also, to try and see whats going on, as for as gear ratio. It seems you are close to on the money, as for as the SIMS show, but in the real world I think you could get a little more. Tire size is needed also. You can get to where you get a lower 60FT but run out of cam on the big end, as you probably know, and hurt your ET. Also to me, it does not seem that suspension mods would help much, since you seem to have good traction.

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Post  gmsmkr February 26th 2015, 11:49 am

I have always had good luck with a progressive style spring set up. The 70/30 struts are holding back some you want to get the front to push all you can the k-member is a great up grade you don't have to run coil overs if you don't want.

This will sound crazy but try to find some weight to take in the middle of the car dead weight is a lot easier to drag than to push so get it out the best you can. Dead weight is in the middle then you got load weight on the front you want to transfer load to the rear and take away dead weight in the middle.

Hope all this makes sense
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Post  supervel45 February 26th 2015, 11:58 am

gmsmkr wrote:I have always had good luck with a progressive style spring set up. The 70/30 struts are holding back some you want to get the front to push all you can the k-member is a great up grade you don't have to run coil overs if you don't want.

This will sound crazy but try to find some weight to take in the middle of the car dead weight is a lot easier to drag than to push so get it out the best you can. Dead weight is in the middle then you got load weight on the front you want to transfer load to the rear and take away dead weight in the middle.

Hope all this makes sense
I think that is called instant center? If it keeps the car level on launch, it can help, instead of using the force to pull the wheels up, instead of pushing the car forward.

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Post  gmsmkr February 26th 2015, 12:02 pm

supervel45 wrote:
gmsmkr wrote:I have always had good luck with a progressive style spring set up. The 70/30 struts are holding back some you want to get the front to push all you can the k-member is a great up grade you don't have to run coil overs if you don't want.

This will sound crazy but try to find some weight to take in the middle of the car dead weight is a lot easier to drag than to push so get it out the best you can. Dead weight is in the middle then you got load weight on the front you want to transfer load to the rear and take away dead weight in the middle.

Hope all this makes sense
                                                                                                                                                                    I think that is called instant center? If it keeps the car level on launch, it can help, instead of using the force to pull the wheels up, instead of pushing the car forward.

I was keeping it simple lol! make it push if it travels to much chain it down Surprised
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Post  85bigblockfox February 26th 2015, 12:22 pm

gmsmkr wrote:I have always had good luck with a progressive style spring set up. The 70/30 struts are holding back some you want to get the front to push all you can the k-member is a great up grade you don't have to run coil overs if you don't want.

This will sound crazy but try to find some weight to take in the middle of the car dead weight is a lot easier to drag than to push so get it out the best you can. Dead weight is in the middle then you got load weight on the front you want to transfer load to the rear and take away dead weight in the middle.

Hope all this makes sense

I understand. I will probably try k member and some 90/10s. But as far as weight in the center of the car I don't think there is anything to take out. No passenger seat, no rear seat. Just a kirkey with carpet.
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Post  supervel45 February 26th 2015, 12:23 pm

If you have a little RPM left through the traps now, I would borrow a set of 2" shorter tires and see what the times look like. Have some one film the launch with both sets, and be sure and put a white mark on the sidewall so you can check traction. It's alot cheaper and easier than gear and convertor changes. When you are getting close to optium even rear tire air pressure can be used to fine tune.

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Post  gmsmkr February 26th 2015, 12:32 pm

supervel45 wrote:If you have a little RPM left through the traps now, I would borrow a set of 2" shorter tires and see what the times look like. Have some one film the launch with both sets, and be sure and put a white mark on the sidewall so you can check traction. It's alot cheaper and easier than gear and convertor changes. When you are getting close to optium even rear tire air pressure can be used to fine tune.

X2.......also on the tire pressure you want both tires to leave full patch of black no spotting of the rubber being layed down you might have 3psi difference but what ever it takes also tire pressure can push left or right. Get a note book and keep it logged on what you tried and how it works.

Good luck and keep us posted


Last edited by gmsmkr on February 26th 2015, 12:45 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : stupid spell check)
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Post  supervel45 February 26th 2015, 12:39 pm

^^^^^^^All Very True. You can put some of the Info on the timeslips to help keep track of everthing before you log it. Try a few different launch technique's such as flashing the convertor, or staging at different RPM's.

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Post  85bigblockfox February 26th 2015, 12:46 pm

Thanks for the help and replys. The 275 pros slightly wrinkle I have a picture I could send to some one in a text message. The contact patch on track and tire look square.
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Post  supervel45 February 26th 2015, 1:08 pm

I don't know if a picture of the side wall would help alot, but a picture of rear patch from the back on fresh clean concrete could be of use, for advice. The side video of the launch helps because it could be played over, and even in slow motion, and you can see exactly whats going, and compare to the other video, with your different combinations, and compared to timeslips of each pass. I knew one guy that even took the rear arm off of a DoublePumper Holley, because he said it slowed down his 60FT times. Most people just play with pump cams and shooters though.

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Post  cool40 February 26th 2015, 10:03 pm

85bigblockfox wrote:
cool40 wrote:Drop the gear if it'll stand it. What's it rpm in high gear?

I could probably go to a 4.10 gear but how would that affect the converter? I had a ati and it was to tight. It would only flash to 3k and 60' was in the 1.73 range with 3.70 gear. Put a 4.22 gear in it and the 60' stayed the same and converter still only went to 3k. Then Jon hooked me up with Lenny and he built a converter for the car. Put the 3.70 gear back in it and now it flashes 4800-5000 rpm and 60' in the 1.57 range. But I am wondering if that's the best the car will do in the 60' or is there more in it? The tire I have on the car is MT 275 pro.
what rpm does it turn in high gear? If it tops out early a 4.10 will hurt et.
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Post  DILLIGASDAVE February 27th 2015, 3:27 am

IMO if you're thinking about changing strut valving why buy another non adjustable strut with fixed valving (like going from 70/30 to 90/10) when you could instead get a strut with adjustable valving (like the Strange stuff)? Adjustability is good, more adjustability is more gooder.

If the current combo is in fact dead hooked during the launch (with no usable wheel-speed, or excess spin, and no engine bog), a front strut with looser extension valving might actually hurt the 60ft by spending more time lifting the nose vs going forward. But if it's actually spinning a bunch (beyond "normal" usable wheel-speed) during the launch strut extension valving adjusted looser might help the 60ft.  

If it was my car (and it was dead hooking) before making any suspension adjustments, or gear changes, or strut changes I would first go to the track on a TnT night to find out just how much air pressure it took (both high & low) before it flat-out spun it's nuts off with the current combo.  If changing the air pressure makes it go from dead hooked to having a little usable wheel-speed, and if that that in turn does help the 60ft, then it might need a stiffer front strut to help it create some wheel-speed, or maybe a little more rear gear.
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Post  85bigblockfox February 27th 2015, 10:02 am

Thanks for the help guys. If I remember right I wanna say it crosses the stripe at 5800. I shift it at 7k in first and second.
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Post  supervel45 February 27th 2015, 10:21 am

Sure sounds like it could use a lower gear. Have you ever tried to drop your shift points, to say 6700-6800 or so, and compare times?

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Post  85bigblockfox February 27th 2015, 10:41 am

supervel45 wrote:Sure sounds like it could use a lower gear. Have you ever tried to drop your shift points, to say 6700-6800 or so, and compare times?

I have but Im thinking it would run bottom 11s. When the weather clears Im going to try it again with whats been suggested. Tire pressure, lower shifts etc and see what it does
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Post  supervel45 February 27th 2015, 11:33 am

Thats the only way to find out and what makes it fun. I let a friend make a pass in my car one time and he shifted at 6,500-6,700 or so, from 7,000 RPM that I was at, and picked up over 2 tent's in the quarter, is why I metioned it. At 7K the motor still seemed strong, but the car just wanted a litte lower shift point for a better ET. If you ever plan to spray your car, I would not go with the lower gears, as you will more than likey be going to 3.50's or higher then. A 150 Shot would get that 5,800 RPM up, and if it hooked deffinetly lower the 60 FT times.

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