Engine Build/Refresh - Reality Check

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Engine Build/Refresh - Reality Check

Post  willo on August 13th 2015, 11:22 am

I picked up a 1985 RV recently. It made it home, but stumbled a bit coming up the canyon (I live at 9600ft, drove it up from Denver). It has about 70k on it. Before I put this thing back together, I wanted to get some input.

When I got under the hood, I found a carb with return ports that weren't hooked up to anything. No wonder it smelled so much like gas! Looks like someone swapped it out at some point.
Pulled the plugs and they are black. Got out the compression tester and got around 100-105psi all around except for 1 cylinder at 65. (Crap.)
Pulled the heads and cam, found pitting on #1 valves. Went shopping. One guy threw in a bunch of extra parts (bearings, rings, etc)
Two weeks later:
rebuilt C8VE heads with all stainless valves, unknown spring pressure (double springs).
these already have 7/16 studs and guide plates, no lifters.
Edelbrock Performer intake (non-RPM)
Crane h-260-2 cam with anti-float lifters.
A fresh set of cam bearings, main, rod bearings and new rings. (came with the intake I picked up)
Aluminum valve covers (couldn't resist at $50.)
Edelbrock 750CFM 4 barrel carb.
Ordered JEGs 1.7 roller rockers. They have singles on sale for $10 each!
Picked up an older pair of headers for $25. They might just fit the e350 chassis. I figured it was worth a shot.

Planning to get a double roller timing chain. (I got one in my pile, but it appears to be for a buick)
Ordered a pushrod length checker coming so I can size them correctly.

Am I missing anything?
The cam is supposed to come on at about 1500rpm, which is supposedly around the lockup on the stock torque converter. (c6).
With the power band from 1500 to 4500, this seems ok for the RV with a 3 speed.

The block is still in the RV. I'm thinking that I'll pull it this weekend so that I can replace the bearings and do a ring job on it. I was going to leave it alone, but then I started looking at all the bonus parts I have. Why not do it all while I'm in there?

The cam card calls for 90lb springs. I have no idea what these doubles are. Probably over 100. I'm going to look for a shop that can measure them. It may be easier just to buy new springs.

Finally, the heads should bump me up to around 9.4:1 compression. Cam card indicates 8-9.5 is ideal. I think I'll be in really good shape with this setup. The water pump looks pretty new. I could feel just a little play in it. I figure on swapping the oil pump while I have the pan off. There's some decent carbon sludge in the lifter tray.

willo

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Re: Engine Build/Refresh - Reality Check

Post  supervel45 on August 13th 2015, 12:18 pm

You need to get the correct valve springs. Did you get hardened exhaust seats on the heads? I would trade off that 750 Eddy off also.

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Re: Engine Build/Refresh - Reality Check

Post  rmcomprandy on August 13th 2015, 4:43 pm

Sell the 1.7/1 Jeg's rocker arm to a Chevy guy and get a set of Ford Geometry rocker arms.

1,500 RPM up ... means that cam is to big for an RV or the description is wrong, (it should be good "off idle & up"), with correct valve springs to match. Your Crane 260 should be close if ground advanced 5 crank degrees like a lot of Crane cams.

Get a timing set from a later model F.I. engine after 1990.

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Re: Engine Build/Refresh - Reality Check

Post  willo on August 13th 2015, 5:09 pm

rmcomprandy wrote:Sell the 1.7/1 Jeg's rocker arm to a Chevy guy and get a set of Ford Geometry rocker arms.

1,500 RPM up ... means that cam is to big for an RV or the description is wrong, (it should be good "off idle & up"), with correct valve springs to match. Your Crane 260 should be close if ground advanced 5 crank degrees like a lot of Crane cams.

Get a timing set from a later model F.I. engine after 1990.

That's the first time I've heard to get a later timing set. Virtually everyone says to get a straight up set.

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Re: Engine Build/Refresh - Reality Check

Post  rmcomprandy on August 13th 2015, 6:07 pm

willo wrote:
rmcomprandy wrote:Sell the 1.7/1 Jeg's rocker arm to a Chevy guy and get a set of Ford Geometry rocker arms.

1,500 RPM up ... means that cam is to big for an RV or the description is wrong, (it should be good "off idle & up"), with correct valve springs to match. Your Crane 260 should be close if ground advanced 5 crank degrees like a lot of Crane cams.

Get a timing set from a later model F.I. engine after 1990.

That's the first time I've heard to get a later timing set. Virtually everyone says to get a straight up set.

The latest Fuel Injected, 460 truck engines were equipped with "straight-up", double "plus roller" timing sets.

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Fatfingered my cam spec

Post  willo on August 13th 2015, 6:10 pm

The cam is good from 1200-4800. Just double checked the spec.

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