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nms-1000

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Post  Larry T August 27th 2015, 9:57 am

should i buy it?
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Post  bruno August 27th 2015, 12:04 pm

the 2 top quality would be the leash one and the nms, the nms if it is in the budget !!! The nms has the best quality ...zero rf noise ...what are you running for ignition ? digital 7 ? grid ?

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Post  whatbumper August 27th 2015, 6:55 pm

X2 on what Bruno said. We usually go with the Leash first because I'm a dealer but we do have customers with the NMS-1000. They are both nice and easy to use.

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Post  Larry T August 27th 2015, 8:42 pm

MSD 7531 and no grid.my nos launcher took a dump last fall and cost me a motor etc.i have now repaired everything and was going through the wiring.on the positive side for the noids it is turning on the test light and wont go out.i think it is stuck in closed loope new wiring and micro switch works as it should.


i ordered the nms-1000 it should be here in a few days any words of wisdom or do's and dont's are welcome.
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Post  FalconEh August 27th 2015, 9:14 pm

Larry T wrote:MSD 7531 and no grid.my nos launcher took a dump last fall and cost me a motor etc.i have now repaired everything and was going through the wiring.on the positive side for the noids it is turning on the test light and wont go out.i think it is stuck in closed loope new wiring and micro switch works as it should.  


i ordered the nms-1000 it should be here in a few days any words of wisdom or do's and dont's are welcome.

How is the positive side triggered ...RPM activation? or is constant 12+ pos and ground triggered.
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Post  whatbumper August 29th 2015, 2:58 pm

I guess I don't understand your wiring issue. For pretty much all progressive or efi operated nitrous systems you supply the solenoids a constant hot. The progressive or efi system grounds the noids.

Am I just reading your message wrong?

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Post  Larry T August 29th 2015, 11:43 pm

i am not sure what the problem is all I know is the positive wire has voltage all the time.when I hooked up the noids they were on all the time until I cut the switch off of the nos system.we tried holding the trans brake button and everything we could.as soon as you turn on the system it would go through the program just as you had released the button on a run.only the micro switch and the wire was replaced everything else was good.the system has 3 fuses no fuses were found bad all we could come up with is something is fried in the internals.
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Post  FalconEh August 30th 2015, 1:13 am

Larry T wrote:i am not sure what the problem is all I know is the positive wire has voltage all the time.when I hooked up the noids they were on all the time until I cut the switch off of the nos system.we tried holding the trans brake button and everything we could.as soon as you turn on the system it would go through the program just as you had released the button on a run.only the micro switch and the wire was replaced everything else was good.the system has 3 fuses no fuses were found bad all we could come up with is something is fried in the internals.

Sounds like the wires to the controller are reversed or tied to the wrong activation wire, the 12v to the noids should be there it should be - activated, something in the loop is reversed and is triggering the program. Unplug the - on the noids and see if they click when you apply ground. I would also check the wires to make sure the T-brake wire from the controller is not running to the main activation switch. It does seem like like the controller is wired as + trigger and the rest of the system is wired as - so when you activate the system the controller is activating. I would unhook the wires on the full throttle switch and see if the program runs ,as if that was changed to power it would close the loop.
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