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Viktor air gap intake

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Dave De
68galaxie
FalconEh
jeffgfg
gmsmkr
nord315
DanE
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Bart Knox
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Post  Bart Knox December 20th 2015, 7:38 pm

Thanks... I figured the pistons out after reading it again but still had something wrong probably a bit of everything was getting 7 something. I was browsing around trying to figure out the proper measurements for everything lol
thanks
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Post  Bart Knox December 21st 2015, 11:41 am

Just got back from buddy's shop. He's going to do the machining over the holidays and do a mock up I gess to measure for the decking $100 a side. I had someone that's a little more mechanically inclined to go over all the advise yous gave me. Everything makes more sense now thanks I'll try not to bug you all again Very Happy
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Post  DanE December 21st 2015, 2:00 pm

Whether or not you bugged us is not the issue here.

It was obvious after a few posts from you that you had very little knowledge regarding engine building, especially the 385 series engine.

Therefore the members of this forum pitched in to give you the information that you needed to have a rewarding build. The members here are "not some fu-king guys off of the internet", in relation to building a 460.

"The Mad Porter's" reply on "460 Ford.com" probably summed it up best.
         _ Speed Pro pistons p2404f
          _Deck block to 0.0" in relation to the piston top at the piston's top dead center position.
          _Reduce the combustion chamber volume by milling the head deck surface until the    
          chamber volume is 70cc. Those operations would have given you a compression ratio of 10.25
          to 1 which would work well with the camshaft he recommended.
         _The camshaft he recommended was a solid flat camshaft with the specs of
                     236 degrees intake duration at .050" lift
                     248 degrees exhaust duration at .050" lift
                     109 degrees intake lobe centerline installed at 105 degrees.
                      I will guess that he didn't like your cam because your cam didn't have enough degrees
                      exhaust duration to make up for the inherent poor flowing exhaust port. And the solid
                      flat tappet camshaft along with its extra exhaust degrees of duration would make
                      more power in the upper half of the RPM range. A custom cam costs very little more
                      than an "off the shelf cam"
                    _PORT THE HEADS
           _Use the Performer RPM intake manifold.

The above recommendations were spot on and the problem was that even though you did not know what to do, you were not taking the advise given to you. You did right by coming here, you did wrong by not taking the advise you asked for.

Well it appears you are on the right track now---------AND YOU ARE WELCOME HERE ANYTIME!

Keep us posted and ask about anything that comes up.


Last edited by DanE on December 21st 2015, 2:24 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : The post did not send as I typed it and I don't know how to correct it.)

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Post  Bart Knox December 21st 2015, 3:41 pm

The guy that helped me pick a cam didn't say anything about the duration only the valve lift said a little over.560 was good and liked this one so I went with it.
                                  Intake.            Exhaust
Valve Adjustment.      .000               .000
Gross valve lift.           .562               .565
Duration @
    .006 tappet lift.       274                286
Valve timing open
   @       .006               INT:    31       BBDC.    63         ABDC
                    EXH:       77.        BBDC.        63.           ATDC
These specs are for cam installed
@ 106.0 Intake center line
                         Intake.                  Exhaust
Duration @ .050 230.                   236
Lobe lift.          .3270.                     .3270
Lobe separation 110.0
Part number 34-247-4 COMP CAMS
Just thought I'd throw thit in there so I have the specs right


I'll do everything els on that list hopefully the porting will take care of that a little


The last question I might have is the carb for this thing. I payed for a holly 850 double pumper a few weeks ago now he has it done but has two different types ones a 75 bucks more
$450 and $525 I'm waiting for a email I'll post the info when I get it.           Thanx again
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Post  69F100 December 21st 2015, 8:14 pm

If you are using iron factory heads make sure to have the valve guides cut down to keep from crushing the valve seals. They need to be trimmed for over .540 lift just something to pass on to the head porter in case you didn't know.
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Post  Bart Knox December 21st 2015, 8:33 pm

The heads have had some work done before I got them they have heavier double springs rebuilt never used......thanks I'll make sure I bring that up.
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Post  Bart Knox December 22nd 2015, 10:56 am

Annular booster 850 machanical secondary holly carb 4 corner idle circuit large boosters $600


Regular down-leg boosters 2 corner idle circuit machanical secondary holly 850 $450





Was going to go with the first one just thought I'd throw it out there in case there's some reason I shouldn't thanks
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Post  torino501 December 22nd 2015, 2:06 pm

maybe you should buy a mail order crate engine from one of the guys here on the form and be done with it. seems to me that you or your machine shops around there are very familiar with the 460..you would be miles and money ahead in the long run...

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Post  Bart Knox December 22nd 2015, 2:26 pm

Though of that......probably would have better...don't know what the shipping costs would be to Canada and Canadian dollar is at a all time low......if I didn't already buy most of the stuff and pay for all the work to be done I would look into it
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Post  Bart Knox January 12th 2016, 10:46 pm

Just thought I'd give you guys a update... Pistons should be in in the next couple days going to see buddy and we're going to do a mock up and get ready for the decking... Got the rebuild 850 Holley double pumper and looking to get the last bits and pieces figured out... Im looking at oil pan pans and I'm wondering about the oil pump... I bought a new high volume straight up and down oil pump from a guy I got a few parts from and was intended for a front sump pan... I'm getting a rear sump pan and wondering if I just change the pick up or need a different pump... The reason I need to know is I can sell the pump to a guy thats having a 460 built for a Lincoln
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Post  Bart Knox January 17th 2016, 2:06 pm

What about a dry sump pan
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Post  Bart Knox January 20th 2016, 1:08 pm

Can anyone tell me ruffly how much to take off heads dove-c to get 70cc's ?
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Post  Bart Knox January 22nd 2016, 4:21 pm

Found a crack in the block... Just in the water jacket patchable he said... Just a set back no big deel
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Post  Mike R January 22nd 2016, 9:18 pm

Don't let him arc weld it. Cast iron can NOT be electric welded, it must be brazed.

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Post  1bad56 January 23rd 2016, 12:16 am

EDITED:
Bart Knox wrote:... I'm getting a rear sump pan and wondering if I just change the pick up or need a different pump... The reason I need to know is I can sell the pump to a guy thats having a 460 built for a Lincoln

Just change the pick-up to one for a rear sump.

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Post  Bart Knox January 23rd 2016, 9:51 am

Iv been looking at pans and the shalowest pan in the centre i could find was the Ford racing M-6675-A460 and was told that i had to use the M84D pump with it. As far as the block he wants to drill and pin each end of the crack and fill it with Im not sure what. He said the heat from brazzing could crack it farther. Brazzing was my first thot but he said hes fixed much bigger cracks and not to worry.
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Post  68galaxie January 23rd 2016, 12:08 pm

Personally I would not use a cracked - and hopefully fixed block.
There are plenty of 460 blocks around. Why take the chance on this cracked block?
Will he guarantee success - and cover the cost entirely if the crack fix fails?
Source another block that checks out.

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Post  Bart Knox January 23rd 2016, 12:18 pm

The crack is about 4 inches in totale and is going to take my old heads for payment of fixing the crack. I do no ware there is a 80s block from a cube van but wasnt sure if my crank would fit been internaly balanced. I can look for a nother pre 79 block but everything got scraped around here when the price was high
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Post  Bart Knox January 24th 2016, 10:49 am

I found anuther block. 77 was borred out 30 over 10 years ago and never totaly ressembled. Going to look at it today and if it checks out ill grab it.
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Post  Bart Knox January 24th 2016, 9:43 pm

I picked up this block for free. 40 over never totaly ressembled crank is seized and would need bored again. How far can you go befor needing to sleeve cylinders.
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Post  Bart Knox January 24th 2016, 9:50 pm

Block is D1VE-6015-A2B
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Post  68galaxie January 25th 2016, 4:15 pm

The cracked block is a D1VE?
Or the new one you found?

I would sonic check any block going 0.060" or more
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Post  Bart Knox January 25th 2016, 10:51 pm

There both d1ve blocks. If you do have to sleeve do you do all cylinders or just the one that get bored throu to the cast?
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Post  68galaxie January 25th 2016, 11:41 pm

Does the new block need a sleeve?
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Post  jeffgfg January 26th 2016, 10:08 am

Most 429-460 blocks can easily take a .060 overbore barring any unusual core shift. A sonic check is a good safety measure. Many blocks have been taken out to .080 and a few rare blocks have been taken out to 4.500 bores without sleeves. No overheating issues from just the .060 overbore, maybe other issues caused it. Have you mic'ed the bores? maybe you can just hone the cylinders for new pistons.

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