429 Steel Truck Crankshaft

This crankshaft is from one of the last production runs as noted by the 1993 engineering revision, the factory induction hardening (purplish tinge), and the non-drilled rod throws which make a 2.100" rod journals and 3.95" stroke safe and easy (and possibly 4.00" stroke). Forged in Germany and known to withstand thousands of horsepower.  This one has both standard mains and standard rods (Std-Std). $450


I also have another one available which is also a later forging with the non-drilled rod throws, fresh 0.010" mains and fresh 0.020" rods (0.010"/0.020"), and can be stroked to 3.85"/2.200" or 3.95"/2.100" standard rod journal (ie, 0.010"/Std after stroked). $375

Call if interested.

Hi Paul..

 I've read these crank's need the rear flange machined and the snout turned down to use standard 460 balancer etc..is this an expensive process ? can a standard 460 timing chain and timing cover be used after this machining?

Could this crank be used in a high rpm 7500-8000..700-750HP N/A , 250-300 NOS build without lightening the heavy 80lbs+ crank with those solid rod journals ?
Will be using A460 block and expensive stock length rods and am interested in this crank, if it can be made to work without spending big dollars on crank prep..( bar the mentioned mods above) to fit the block, standard 460 timing cover, timing chain and balancer..  



      cheers..Aaron

I"d just ring you paul.. but i'm over here in Oz..you can pm me if it's not to much trouble.
I'm definitely interested in one of your cranks..I'll ring when i can if it's easier..

  Cheers

Hello Aaron, answers below:

boss9coupe wrote:I've read these crank's need the rear flange machined and the snout turned down to use standard 460 balancer etc.

Yes, and it's simple. The 1.75" diameter snout may be turned down to passenger car-sized 1.375" snout and re-keyed by any competent crankshaft grinding shop.  I even know guys that reduce the snout diameter at home on their lathe and then cut the keyway on their mill. One guy roughs his in at home and lets the crank shop finish the job.  The rear flange's lip (aka flexplate centering ring) is shortened just a little bit (again to passenger car spec), and then the inner pilot diameter is increased from the truck crank's 1.25" to the passenger car 1.375" or 1.845" (or whatever the passenger car spec is).  If you're going to have a crank grinding shop do it, you can bring an OEM passenger car crank (or the one with the ends you want duplicated) to them for reference.  By the way you can configure the snout however you wish--I have one here with a 1.61" BBC snout that I was going to use in a blower engine.

boss9coupe wrote:...is this an expensive process ? can a standard 460 timing chain and timing cover be used after this machining?

I don't see why it should cost any more than offset stroking the crankshaft itself.  Once completed, the crankshaft will accept the passenger car timing chain, timing cover, snout spacer, balancer, etc.

boss9coupe wrote:Could this crank be used in a high rpm 7500-8000..700-750HP N/A , 250-300 NOS build without lightening the heavy 80lbs+ crank with those solid rod journals?

People turn those rpms all the time with these cranks, most often truck pullers spinning them to 9000 rpm or higher.  A 300 shot of N20 won't even wake this crankshaft from its sleep--I know a guy who submitted his to 60% nitro fed through a 12-71, and that was with the rod journals being welded on and offset stroked way out to 4.125".

boss9coupe wrote:Will be using A460 block and expensive stock length rods and am interested in this crank, if it can be made to work without spending big dollars on crank prep..(barring the mentioned mods above) to fit the block, standard 460 timing cover, timing chain and balancer.

Yes it can be made to work as I've described.  Everyone sets them up a little different but yes those are the basic needs.  The beauty of these forgings is that you may whittle them to your specific needs.

________________________________

boss9coupe wrote:I"d just ring you paul.. but i'm over here in Oz..you can pm me if it's not to much trouble.

Go ahead and give me a call, I'm not doing anything at the moment.

Telephone: United States-310-435-19ZeroZero

-P

And don't forget if your going to run a supercharger like you Aussie's like to do, that big snout is really nice to have, at least in my opinion.

supervel45 wrote:And don't forget if your going to run a supercharger like you Aussie's like to do, that big snout is really nice to have, at least in my opinion.

Haha ..You got that right about us Aussie's and Blower's...     A Very Good point.. the BBC snout is something my mate here will probably look at as he was talking about a under bonnet supercharger ("sleeper") in the future.


             Cheers Aaron.

Thankyou Paul.

For a Very detailed reply.. answered all my question's that we were worried about with (no grey area's)..my mate here in Oz will be rapt..

I'll probably ring you tomorrow when it's convenient.. we just have to nut out one or two thing's first..


Thanks Again ... Aaron

boss9coupe wrote:
Thankyou Paul.

For a Very detailed reply.. answered all my question's that we were worried about with (no grey area's)..my mate here in Oz will be rapt..

I'll probably ring you tomorrow when it's convenient.. we just have to nut out one or two thing's first..


     Thanks Again ... Aaron

You are likely getting my crank but first come first served. Put it to good use and it's all good, and another one will come around hopefully.