Ford 300 I6

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Ford 300 I6

Post  jones on April 4th 2016, 11:05 pm

This is the engine out of my 84 F150 4x4. I needed to install a new clutch and decide to just pull the engine and freshen it up. Pulled the engine Saturday and started looking over it to see why it might be so under powered and missing when cold.

I have bought a couple of items all ready that I hope would allow it to run better.
Edelbrock 500cfm AVS carburator
Offy dual plane aluminum intake
Headman headers
Timing gears

Now it's time to see what the engine needs to have replaced. Lets start with some cylinder pictures. Bores measured 4.040




I noticed in the chambers that are wet the intake valves are set deeper than the other chambers.




I found a handful of bent pushrods and some had the oil passages clogged. I want to replace the camshaft, lifters, valve springs and rockers. I've been told the aftermarket stamped rockers have better dimensions and closer to actual ratio.

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Re: Ford 300 I6

Post  jones on April 4th 2016, 11:17 pm

Tell me if you see anything that would cause a engine miss when the engine is cold? It eventually warms up and smooths out. I'm still trying to figure out what the brown build-up is, oil? I am running a diesel oil.

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Re: Ford 300 I6

Post  supervel45 on April 4th 2016, 11:49 pm

Bent pushrods did not help it any. The rear piston looks wet like you had a weak spark plug also. Could be leaking valves too. Pull the head down and look at the valves and seats.

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Re: Ford 300 I6

Post  DILLIGASDAVE on April 5th 2016, 3:05 am

I had a 1980 F100 with a 300 6 that would clog-up X number of pushrods every so often/after X number of miles & starve the rockers. The goop clogging the pushrods is sludge from cooked engine oil. IIRC the oil in the pushrods gets cooked real good because some/all of the 300 6's pushrods pass right next to exhaust ports (again IIRC).

A quick n dirty way to clean the cooked sludge out of the pushrods is to put them in a drill press & spin them while running a torch lightly over the length of the pushrod. This would usually melt the sludge causing most/all of it to ooze/spray out of the pushrod. This might not be the "right" way to clean out the sludge clogging 300 6 pushrods, but it worked for me & it got the job done quickly. Don't forget to put something under the pushrod (while in the drill press) to catch crap oozing out (like a beer can with the top cut off).
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Re: Ford 300 I6

Post  jones on April 5th 2016, 8:18 am

There is two chambers that are wet and those where the two chambers I believe that was running 100 degrees cooler than the others.

I'm trying to figure out what RPM range the truck runs in so I can pick a camshaft. Right now the truck is running 3.08 gears and 31" tires. That isn't working out though. I know when I buy new tires they are going to be 33" tall tires. My next project will be to change the front and rear gears. I guess I have to decide what Rpms the engine wants to run in and then gear for the tire.
I wanted to try A crower camshaft just to see if I'm missing out. Only cam manufacturer I have ever used has been comp.
I guess I need to cc the chamber and piston to find my compression ratio.

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Re: Ford 300 I6

Post  supervel45 on April 5th 2016, 11:51 am

jones wrote:There is two chambers that are wet and those where the two chambers I believe that was running 100 degrees cooler than the others.

I'm trying to figure out what RPM range the truck runs in so I can pick a camshaft. Right now the truck is running 3.08 gears and 31" tires. That isn't working out though. I know when I buy new tires they are going to be 33" tall tires. My next project will be to change the front and rear gears. I guess I have to decide what Rpms the engine wants to run in and then gear for the tire.
I wanted to try A crower camshaft just to see if I'm missing out. Only cam manufacturer I have ever used has been comp.
I guess I need to cc the chamber and piston to find my compression ratio.

I would step it up to at least 3.70's with 33's. That's a good compromise gear if you don't have overdrive. I run 4.10's with my 33's and the 5.0 4speed automatic and like the combo. I don't think those 300 6's ever went over 9/1 compression from the factory but that is just a guess. I would get with some of the 300 diehards and discuss cams with them, as I am sure there must be a small click of them around somewhere in internet land just like the GN V6 guys. It does not matter if the box says Crower or Comp it's the grind inside that count's.

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Re: Ford 300 I6

Post  supervel45 on April 5th 2016, 11:53 am

http://www.wallaceracing.com/gear-speed.php

You can play with your numbwers in here quik and easy and see what you like.

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Re: Ford 300 I6

Post  jones on April 5th 2016, 12:21 pm

Using factory CC's for the heads (76) Pistons (20) bore 4.040" stroke 3.98 I'm coming up with over 9:1 with some guesses thrown in.

The bores have a lip on the top but I'm unsure how much of that is build-up. I wanted to CC the heads to get an idea of how much they have been decked all ready. To my amazement the Pistons look real close to zero deck. If they are I really hope the deck is flat. This explains why the engine drove so much better on 93 octane.

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Re: Ford 300 I6

Post  jones on April 5th 2016, 12:29 pm

If you look at the picture of the chambers would it be helpful to roll out the chamber close to the valves?
It might help if I polish the chamber shouldn't it?
(Might as well play with it, not like I can't go buy a reman head for $300.)

the only thing I am really apprehensive about is getting the intake and headers lined up with the ports.

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Re: Ford 300 I6

Post  jones on April 5th 2016, 12:38 pm

I'm trying to think of some way to visually align the manifolds from the outside and know they are right. One bad thing about these engines is that they will run no matter how bad they are abused. So it's hard to tell if you have something off. You are liable to never realize the power your missing.

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Re: Ford 300 I6

Post  supervel45 on April 5th 2016, 1:01 pm

http://www.wallaceracing.com/cr_test2.php

That comes up at about 10.16/1 compression, with 0 deck height 6cc valve relief .041 gasket 4.1 gasket bore ect. Should be pretty peppy and let you run a decent size cam. You can lower the Dynamic Compression by your cam choice. If you go 110-112 LSA and back up the ICL to say 108 it will drop it down. Run you cams through the dynamic calculator and see what you like. I did and I rejected my Comp cam over it's dynamic compression numbers compared to the Lunati I picked up but, I was going in the opposite direction you are and trying to get the numbers higher.

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Re: Ford 300 I6

Post  jones on April 5th 2016, 1:38 pm

how it sits now.
55mph 1,836rpm
60mph 2,002rpm
70mph 2,336rpm
90mph 3,004rpm

That looks horrible, that's all jacked up! Gets worse when I put the 33's on. Just because it is a straight 6 doesn't mean it's a diesel or should be treated like one!

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Re: Ford 300 I6

Post  jones on April 5th 2016, 1:48 pm

On the dailey commute it's sweet spot is 75-80mph. It will pull every hill and just cruise. I'm pretty sure I'm actually going faster because Of the larger than stock tires.
Either everyone slows way down when they see me in my truck cause when I'm in the car they are passing me!

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Re: Ford 300 I6

Post  supervel45 on April 5th 2016, 2:00 pm

jones wrote:how it sits now.
55mph 1,836rpm
60mph 2,002rpm
70mph 2,336rpm
90mph 3,004rpm

That looks horrible, that's all jacked up! Gets worse when I put the 33's on. Just because it is a straight 6 doesn't mean it's a diesel or should be treated like one!

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Re: Ford 300 I6

Post  supervel45 on April 5th 2016, 2:04 pm

jones wrote:how it sits now.
55mph 1,836rpm
60mph 2,002rpm
70mph 2,336rpm
90mph 3,004rpm

That looks horrible, that's all jacked up! Gets worse when I put the 33's on. Just because it is a straight 6 doesn't mean it's a diesel or should be treated like one!

If you had a decent big block especially with overdrive those numbers would look pretty good to me. My 5.0 really picks up with a 30/31 inch tire with the 4.10's on big hills but, I don't like it at highway speeds with the shorter tires, love it with the 33's though, it needs about 50HP more and it would be right.

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Re: Ford 300 I6

Post  jones on April 5th 2016, 3:40 pm

What would y'all recommend for max rpm? (I figured 4,500rpm) if I put 4,500 rpm at 85mph with 33" tall tires it gives a gear ratio of 5.20.

(I'm trying to figure what band width of rpm the truck pulls in 1:1. IMO I don't have to worry about pulling off because it's geared so low. I want to focus on being able to pull hills in 1:1 55-70mph. I guess now I need to figure out what rpm that is with the 5.20 'ish gear. I'm probably going to be limited with the 8.8, I know the D44 has a lot of choices.

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Re: Ford 300 I6

Post  bluef100fe on April 5th 2016, 5:34 pm

We put 4.56-7's in my buddies 93 f150 with the I6... Slightly hotter than stock cam, comp grind IIRC, ported head, blue printed short block 0.030 over bore with stock dished replacement Pistons, I think it's 9.5:1, rattles on regular fuel gotta run premium in it.. stock two piece fuel injection exhaust manifold. He has a 4sp plus OD with 35 inch tires and 8 inches of lift. First gear is pretty short but he can run in OD anywhere and still go faster than the truck should really be driven, lol. Thing couldn't hold OD before in a head wind before the rebuild, Now it don't seem to care. Mileage was in the low teens . Hope this helps
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Re: Ford 300 I6

Post  Doug Rahn on April 5th 2016, 7:22 pm

jones wrote:What would y'all recommend for max rpm? (I figured 4,500rpm) if I put 4,500 rpm at 85mph with 33" tall tires it gives a gear ratio of 5.20.

(I'm trying to figure what band width of rpm the truck pulls in 1:1. IMO I don't have to worry about pulling off because it's geared so low. I want to focus on being able to pull hills in 1:1 55-70mph. I guess now I need to figure out what rpm that is with the 5.20 'ish gear. I'm probably going to be limited with the 8.8, I know the D44 has a lot of choices.

I love those old inline 6’s had one on my ’67 Econoline Falcon van. Way back in the 70’s my older brother use to race in the Hobby Class at the asphalt round track that Savannah use to have. Typically the most the factory cast crank can handle is 5000 rpm and that’s pushing it. We found that out the hard way, lol! We also use to have trouble pulling out the press in rocker studs. Being a low budget racer back then the only affordable option to us was to drill through the boss and stud and drive in a roll pin. Worked great and only cost a few dollars.
Some of the 300’s did come with a forged crank, but I think they were only found in some of the truck engines. Easy to spot though, narrow parting line on the throw its cast, wide parting line and it’s forged
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Re: Ford 300 I6

Post  jbozzelle on April 6th 2016, 2:02 pm

Rear cylinder may be wet if the carb was leaking fuel while sitting. If so, do compression check to see if it's ate the rings yet...

My Dad and I rebuilt one years ago for a mid 80's E-350 SuperWagon (van). It wouldn't get out of its' own way before. Once we rebuilt it and stuck a Comp 252H cam in it it would roll anywhere hooked up in OD pulling my 78 Futura on the car trailer...


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Re: Ford 300 I6

Post  jones on April 6th 2016, 8:11 pm

im just going to drop the head off at the machine shop and have him disassemble, clean it up, check for cracks and just how much wear is done. I'm interested to see if the deck is flat.

It hasn't set for very long and right before I pulled the motor I checked the compression and posted the numbers in a post above.

I hope I can get by with just another set of rings and it rotates real smooth with out any slack.

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Re: Ford 300 I6

Post  Doug Rahn on April 7th 2016, 2:53 pm

I talked to an old high school friend yesterday that use to run in the Hobby class also, and he said the best he could remember about the cast and forged cranks was that they were intended for the Industrial engines but when stock ran low at the other plants they could have been put in anything from the cars to the F100 up to the F600. Also another way to identify one was on the cast cranks the part number was cast in the throw with raised numbers and the forged was stamped in. Two numbers he remembers are C5TE-f & C6TE-G, just in case anyone is interested.
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Re: Ford 300 I6

Post  jones on April 7th 2016, 10:56 pm

Dropped the cylinder head off at the machine shop this morning. He managed to take a quick look and found a lot of problems. I was advised to go through the short block, cause if the same person did the work to the rotating assembly that worked on the heads its got problems!

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Re: Ford 300 I6

Post  jones on April 11th 2016, 3:13 pm

Magna flux the head and found where it had been pinned and welded in a exhaust seat area. Unfortunately that seat needs to be replaced. So it's time to move on to another cylinder head.


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Re: Ford 300 I6

Post  jones on April 12th 2016, 9:32 am

Tell me what combustion chamber is the better design. You can see the type chamber the cylinder head had that came off the engine in post above. The new re cast versions have a smaller kidney bean shape chamber.

Can any of you machine shop owners get me one of the new cylinder heads in a bare version?

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Re: Ford 300 I6

Post  jones on April 17th 2016, 8:38 pm

Every piston but number 1 had the top ring broken. The rod bearings are worn into the copper on the top shell and bottom shell looks like they have had plenty of dirt pass through. Looks like the crank throws have been turned .020 according to the bearings.

Bought a new cylinder head

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