Building a 514 bbf with a procharger f3

Me an my granddad are building a 86 mustang (outlaw 10.5) an we can not figure witch cam an the best heads are.it's a 460 based 4bolt main block an going to a 514.
Thanks.

JR welcome to the site

I would be very specific and post your build , the more information the better , also f you have flow numbers that would be great if you can post those .....


another thing you can do is give Lem Evans a call at BF Evans Race parts he is the cam guru for BBF's here is his phone number B.F.Evans Race Parts : 1-877-611-2613 Toll Free 1-270-278-2376 International

dfree383 wrote:You'll need to post a bunch more about what your looking to do and what you have already. How much HP you looking for? How heavy's is the car? How fast do you want to go?

3200LB car so we can race in the class,hp wise bout 1800,about 170mph in the 1/8 an about 200 to 210 in a 1/4.

bruno wrote:JR welcome to the site

I would be very specific and post your build , the more information the better , also f you have flow numbers that would be great if you can post those .....


another thing you can do is give Lem Evans a call at BF Evans Race parts he is the cam guru for BBF's here is his phone number B.F.Evans Race Parts : 1-877-611-2613 Toll Free 1-270-278-2376 International

were thinking on the heads 2.35/1.88 but will that be enough flow.

dfree383 wrote:Definetly doable but not cheap....... Are you going to build the motor yourself or have someone it for you? What do you have for a chassis? Trans?

25.2 cage trans powerglide with stright cut gears

With a Procharger, you are going to need a set of heads that breathes very well on the exhaust side. IMO that means you will need at least the an A-460 head, the Ford C-460 head, or the Profiler # 205 head. Any of the OEM style heads are going to be too restrictive on the exhaust side of a blown engine. If you choose the A-460 heads, I would get the 18 bolt TFS A-460 heads, because the 18 bolts give you a better clamoing force on the head gasket. The Ford C-460 and the Profiler heads are 18 bolt heads.

Next off, you need to forget about the stock 4 bolt CJ block and go with an aftermarket block such as the Ford SVO A-460, or the Eliminator block.

Hope this helps,

Charlie Evans

Charlie Evans is correct. I would use the Eliminator block and Blue Thunder Thor heads. You will have more than enough torque, so a 4.00 or 4.250 crank is advisable. I would also cut .100-.200 from the deck, just don't cut into the upper bellhousing bolt bosses.

Can not really afford a aftermarket block right now.

J R wrote:Can not really afford a aftermarket block right now.

Well you need for leave the F-3 build for later, a stock block will not hold up to 1700-2500hp, depending on which F-3 you use.

Outlaw5.0 wrote:

J R wrote:Can not really afford a aftermarket block right now.

Well you need for leave the F-3 build for later, a stock block will not hold up to 1700-2500hp, depending on which F-3 you use.

x2 .... baby steps ...... you might need to let us know what you budget is for the whole project .. and let us help you distrubute the funds properly ...... i think the F-3 needs to be for the future ......

good luck and remember we are here to help you with your build

Nick Bruno

If a block is too much then you might rethink your goals a bit..............you are not headed down the cheap path.

richter69 wrote:If a block is too much then you might rethink your goals a bit..............you are not headed down the cheap path.

+2... a stock block is only good to 800 hp reliably regardless of the stock block. if you want more power than that you need to either get an aftermarket block or accept that the stock block will break... probably on short order... and destroy most of the other parts inside. build it once right with an aftermarket block, or build it once wrong, blow it up, and spend three times as much building it right the second time. jmo

JR if you dont mind me asking what is the fastetst drag car you have been in ?? your answer is going to lead up to my next statement