All Cast Iron Street Performance Build

Hey guys! Well, unfortunately after accumulating a nice 545 stroker rotating assembly and ported Edelbrock heads, as was periodically happening, I ran low on cash and sold the stuff.
Got a new job and things are peachy so, unless you guys talk me out of it, I have decided to build as much streetable power as I can utilizing the factory Ford cast iron heads, intake and exhaust manifolds on a 468.
I've wanted to do something like this for years but when it came time to actually do a build, I'd always revert to purchasing an aluminum intake, headers and aluminum heads if I could afford it.
This engine will be going into my 1974 Cougar. It's a big, heavy thing so obviously torque will be very important. I want this engine to run hard. On 91 pump gas.
Since it is a street car, the bias is toward street, however, I would like to run it in the quarter occasionally and would ideally like to crack into the elevens if at all possible. If not, twelves would be nice.
I have a set of DOVEs that already have big valves installed and a little exhaust port clean up but they really need The Mad Porters touch so will be sending them to him.
Also have a 1970 intake with no egr. Would like to use the stock exhaust manifolds on the car. Maybe send them to someone to port?

So, is this doable? Am I crazy? Am I a boob for wanting to do this? Please discuss.

All input is HUGELY appreciated.

Thanks guys!

Posted at the other forum as well.  

If you want a good cast iron intake there was a marine version of the 460 that had a 429 CJ iron intake. You might search around and find one of those. Other than that, get the heads flowed and call Straub for a cam. You'll get the most power out of your combination with that.

Exactly WHY are you insistent upon using cast iron exhaust manifolds and a cast iron intake manifold ...?
Is this to be some kind of restoration "retro" type vehicle ...?

For anything else ... I would recommend the 3/4 length headers, (I think "Stan's Headers" has them), and an Edelbrock "Performer", (NOT RPM), intake manifold for a stock kind of build.
The aluminum intake will keep the intake charge remain coolest, (it is lighter to boot), and the headers are the single best modification you can make for power output, (and save a little weight there, too).

Scott Foxwell wrote:If you want a good cast iron intake there was a marine version of the 460 that had a 429 CJ iron intake. You might search around and find one of those. Other than that, get the heads flowed and call Straub for a cam. You'll get the most power out of your combination with that.

Thank you for your input, Scott.

rmcomprandy wrote:Exactly WHY are you insistent upon using cast iron exhaust manifolds and a cast iron intake manifold ...?
Is this to be some kind of restoration "retro" type vehicle ...?

For anything else ... I would recommend the 3/4 length headers, (I think "Stan's Headers" has them), and an Edelbrock "Performer", (NOT RPM), intake manifold for a stock kind of build.
The aluminum intake will keep the intake charge remain coolest, (it is lighter to boot), and the headers are the single best modification you can make for power output, (and save a little weight there, too).

More of an experiment than anything, Randy. I'd just like to see how strong an engine I could assemble using the factory iron stuff.
Always thought it would be cool to have a killer running fast car and when you pop the hood to show your buddies what you have, nothing but factory Ford blue iron and crappy stock exhaust manifolds.

1EFF100 wrote:Hey guys! Well, unfortunately after accumulating a nice 545 stroker rotating assembly and ported Edelbrock heads, as was periodically happening, I ran low on cash and sold the stuff.
Got a new job and things are peachy so, unless you guys talk me out of it, I have decided to build as much streetable power as I can utilizing the factory Ford cast iron heads, intake and exhaust manifolds on a 468.
I've wanted to do something like this for years but when it came time to actually do a build, I'd always revert to purchasing an aluminum intake, headers and aluminum heads if I could afford it.
This engine will be going into my 1974 Cougar. It's a big, heavy thing so obviously torque will be very important. I want this engine to run hard. On 91 pump gas.
Since it is a street car, the bias is toward street, however, I would like to run it in the quarter occasionally and would ideally like to crack into the elevens if at all possible. If not, twelves would be nice.
I have a set of DOVEs that already have big valves installed and a little exhaust port clean up but they really need The Mad Porters touch so will be sending them to him.
Also have a 1970 intake with no egr. Would like to use the stock exhaust manifolds on the car. Maybe send them to someone to port?

So, is this doable? Am I crazy? Am I a boob for wanting to do this? Please discuss.

All input is HUGELY appreciated.

Thanks guys!

Posted at the other forum as well.  

IMO on only 91 octane gas with cast iron exhaust manifolds and intake manifolds at 468 cubic inches is asking to much in that heavy car to run low 12's or high 11's.Now if it was a stroker motor it would probably still be tough to do but a lot easier then at 468 cubic inches IMO.

Throw a hidden nitrous kit on it, it'll go high 11's then!!

Headers and intake are going to be your best bang for the $$$

The SCJ intake and shipping can very easily equal the price of an aftermarket dual plane depending on what you find.

Would you guys stop throwing reality at me! You're ruining my cast iron dreams!
A stroker isn't out of the question. I brought up a 468 because I already have a stock crank, truck rods and new + .040 hyper pistons. I could go with a lower cost stroker assembly.

1EFF100 wrote:Would you guys stop throwing reality at me! You're ruining my cast iron dreams!
A stroker isn't out of the question. I brought up a 468 because I already have a stock crank, truck rods and new + .040 hyper pistons. I could go with a lower cost stroker assembly.  

If you got the rotating assembly it will work fine, the money would be better spent eliminating the "cast iron" where feasible and spend it on ignition, valvetrain and a quality carb.

1EFF100 wrote:

Scott Foxwell wrote:If you want a good cast iron intake there was a marine version of the 460 that had a 429 CJ iron intake. You might search around and find one of those. Other than that, get the heads flowed and call Straub for a cam. You'll get the most power out of your combination with that.

Thank you for your input, Scott.  

rmcomprandy wrote:Exactly WHY are you insistent upon using cast iron exhaust manifolds and a cast iron intake manifold ...?
Is this to be some kind of restoration "retro" type vehicle ...?

For anything else ... I would recommend the 3/4 length headers, (I think "Stan's Headers" has them), and an Edelbrock "Performer", (NOT RPM), intake manifold for a stock kind of build.
The aluminum intake will keep the intake charge remain coolest, (it is lighter to boot), and the headers are the single best modification you can make for power output, (and save a little weight there, too).

More of an experiment than anything, Randy. I'd just like to see how strong an engine I could assemble using the factory iron stuff.
Always thought it would be cool to have a killer running fast car and when you pop the hood to show your buddies what you have, nothing but factory Ford blue iron and crappy stock exhaust manifolds.

cast in cast out engine for a class years ago ,   472  made 500hp,  , later rules allowed headers, then it made 550, 4150 factory scj cast intake, added vic went to 600 and change. Added 1050,and 4500 intake made  650hp.  dynoed with the same full ehx to the rear bumper every time.

would of liked to try a few other things, but the guy retired

I can't even count the number of times I have metal finished the name and part numbers off an aftermarket intake manifold then painted it Ford blue, along with the engine.

dfree383 wrote:

1EFF100 wrote:Would you guys stop throwing reality at me! You're ruining my cast iron dreams!
A stroker isn't out of the question. I brought up a 468 because I already have a stock crank, truck rods and new + .040 hyper pistons. I could go with a lower cost stroker assembly.  

If you got the rotating assembly it will work fine, the money would be better spent eliminating the "cast iron" where feasible and spend it on ignition, valvetrain and a quality carb.

That would certainly be the intelligent thing to do but.......
I may end up changing my mind before I start the build.....I seem to do that.

BOSS 429 wrote:

1EFF100 wrote:

Scott Foxwell wrote:If you want a good cast iron intake there was a marine version of the 460 that had a 429 CJ iron intake. You might search around and find one of those. Other than that, get the heads flowed and call Straub for a cam. You'll get the most power out of your combination with that.

Thank you for your input, Scott.  

rmcomprandy wrote:Exactly WHY are you insistent upon using cast iron exhaust manifolds and a cast iron intake manifold ...?
Is this to be some kind of restoration "retro" type vehicle ...?

For anything else ... I would recommend the 3/4 length headers, (I think "Stan's Headers" has them), and an Edelbrock "Performer", (NOT RPM), intake manifold for a stock kind of build.
The aluminum intake will keep the intake charge remain coolest, (it is lighter to boot), and the headers are the single best modification you can make for power output, (and save a little weight there, too).

More of an experiment than anything, Randy. I'd just like to see how strong an engine I could assemble using the factory iron stuff.
Always thought it would be cool to have a killer running fast car and when you pop the hood to show your buddies what you have, nothing but factory Ford blue iron and crappy stock exhaust manifolds.

cast in cast out engine for a class years ago ,   472  made 500hp,  , later rules allowed headers, then it made 550, 4150 factory scj cast intake, added vic went to 600 and change. Added 1050,and 4500 intake made  650hp.  dynoed with the same full ehx to the rear bumper every time.

would of liked to try a few other things, but the guy retired

Wow, 150 horsepower gain through an intake, carb and header change--that's substantial.
I would imagine the engine was running lots of compression and a pretty aggressive camshaft as well?

rmcomprandy wrote:I can't even count the number of times I have metal finished the name and part numbers off an aftermarket intake manifold then painted it Ford blue, along with the engine.

Ah Randy, that's cheatin'!

1EFF100 wrote:

rmcomprandy wrote:I can't even count the number of times I have metal finished the name and part numbers off an aftermarket intake manifold then painted it Ford blue, along with the engine.

Ah Randy, that's cheatin'!

Cheating what? It's a street machine...ya got no rules to break.

Delete double post

The 429 in my 69 Mach1 had iron manifolds. I'm pretty sure they were what came on the engine when it was in the '70 Torino GT. I remember the manifolds had special adapter donuts that would allow a 2-1/2" exhaust right off the flanges. Car ran 12.50 @ 125, probably 3500# with street tires, full exhaust. 429, iron manifolds, stock flat top bottom end, stock heads cleaned up a little (still had factory valve job), Boss 351 valve train, Isky flat solid, Isky 8005A springs and retainers, 5/16 Isky pushrods and a Buddy Bar Dual Quad intake, C6, TransGo shift kit, 3.89 Posi, stock converter. It would turn 7K and ran like a striped ass ape. I still have the valve train.

Scott Foxwell wrote:The 429 in my 69 Mach1 had iron manifolds. I'm pretty sure they were what came on the engine when it was in the '70 Torino GT. I remember the manifolds had special adapter donuts that would allow a 2-1/2" exhaust right off the flanges. Car ran 12.50 @ 125, probably 3500# with street tires, full exhaust. 429, iron manifolds, stock flat top bottom end, stock heads cleaned up a little (still had factory valve job), Boss 351 valve train, Isky flat solid, Isky 8005A springs and retainers, 5/16 Isky pushrods and a Buddy Bar Dual Quad intake, C6, TransGo shift kit, 3.89 Posi, stock converter. It would turn 7K and ran like a striped ass ape. I still have the valve train.

12.50's @ 125 mph? At 125 mph you should be deep, deep 11's.

rmk57 wrote:

Scott Foxwell wrote:The 429 in my 69 Mach1 had iron manifolds. I'm pretty sure they were what came on the engine when it was in the '70 Torino GT. I remember the manifolds had special adapter donuts that would allow a 2-1/2" exhaust right off the flanges. Car ran 12.50 @ 125, probably 3500# with street tires, full exhaust. 429, iron manifolds, stock flat top bottom end, stock heads cleaned up a little (still had factory valve job), Boss 351 valve train, Isky flat solid, Isky 8005A springs and retainers, 5/16 Isky pushrods and a Buddy Bar Dual Quad intake, C6, TransGo shift kit, 3.89 Posi, stock converter. It would turn 7K and ran like a striped ass ape. I still have the valve train.

12.50's @ 125 mph? At 125 mph you should be deep, deep 11's.

125 mph is enough to run high 10's at least,although he did say he was running street tires!!!

Mark Miller wrote:

rmk57 wrote:

Scott Foxwell wrote:The 429 in my 69 Mach1 had iron manifolds. I'm pretty sure they were what came on the engine when it was in the '70 Torino GT. I remember the manifolds had special adapter donuts that would allow a 2-1/2" exhaust right off the flanges. Car ran 12.50 @ 125, probably 3500# with street tires, full exhaust. 429, iron manifolds, stock flat top bottom end, stock heads cleaned up a little (still had factory valve job), Boss 351 valve train, Isky flat solid, Isky 8005A springs and retainers, 5/16 Isky pushrods and a Buddy Bar Dual Quad intake, C6, TransGo shift kit, 3.89 Posi, stock converter. It would turn 7K and ran like a striped ass ape. I still have the valve train.

12.50's @ 125 mph? At 125 mph you should be deep, deep 11's.

125 mph is enough to run high 10's at least,although he did say he was running street tires!!!  

Your right, that's why it doesn't add up. It would take around 550-600 hp to have a crappy 60 ft, but get incredible grip to mile an hour on street tires. Trying not to be cynical.......

12.50's are around 106-109 give or take.

rmk57 wrote:

Scott Foxwell wrote:The 429 in my 69 Mach1 had iron manifolds. I'm pretty sure they were what came on the engine when it was in the '70 Torino GT. I remember the manifolds had special adapter donuts that would allow a 2-1/2" exhaust right off the flanges. Car ran 12.50 @ 125, probably 3500# with street tires, full exhaust. 429, iron manifolds, stock flat top bottom end, stock heads cleaned up a little (still had factory valve job), Boss 351 valve train, Isky flat solid, Isky 8005A springs and retainers, 5/16 Isky pushrods and a Buddy Bar Dual Quad intake, C6, TransGo shift kit, 3.89 Posi, stock converter. It would turn 7K and ran like a striped ass ape. I still have the valve train.

12.50's @ 125 mph? At 125 mph you should be deep, deep 11's.

The car was pretty light (<3500#), had no interior and one seat and had no traction off the line. I'm also going by memory and that was 35 yrs ago but I remember pretty consistently on our street 1/4mi track it would peg the speedo (which I know was calibrated right) @ about 6000 rpm. It had 275/60 15 radials of some sort back then. Point is, it hauled ass with iron manifolds.

supervel45 wrote:https://www.hemmings.com/magazine/mus/2011/01/Stopgap--Stang---1971-Ford-Mustang-Mach-1/3694811.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aNzU0IwtvFo

You can go fast with Iron. Cheap, Stock Iron, or Streetable Not So Much.

You don't even want to ask the $$$ on those fast ones...

supervel45 wrote:I was thinking $150K plus on that Mustang and maybe more on that Hemi if they where even for sale but, I get your point they cost a fortune to get there.  OP should loose the idea or raise his expectations a 1 second or more or pursue the already mentioned suggestions in my opinion.

I've already lost the idea, what with all you guys and your negative responses and whatnot. lol.