New build input

Morning all. I am looking for input into a new build that I am putting together for my brothers new bracket car. I have spent the last couple of hours reading through the proven build threads and think I have a good idea but would like your input and maybe some "look out for this" type things. The car is an 89' mustang, track only, 1/4 mile. 28X10.5 tire, with stock style rear suspension. Trans is open, but more than likely a glide. As I am the guy that is going to have to maintain this program and have two other programs that I manage throughout the season. I would like the valvetrain maintenance to be relatively low. I.E. check springs, lash every 30 passes, refresh engine 300'ish passes. I would like it to run low 9's and I think that is an attainable goal to reach. The only parts I have now are a set of P-51 heads that are new in the box. Here is my thoughts on the engine,
Eliminator sportsman block - 4.440" bore X 4.300" stroke.
Victor intake - dominator carb 1200cfm / open to a tunnel ram as well
shoot for around 13:1 compression.
Kaase oil pump, good pan with windage tray
Vacuum pump at 10-12 inches
P-51's with T&D shaft rockers
Solid roller cam with as good as a pushrod that I can fit.

Looks like a good plan. Good lifters and stay on top of the lash a little more IMO and you should be good to go.

Any brand specific lifter? I am thinking Morel

I have great luck with crower but I've heard nothing but good about Them.

You may not need the Eliminator block. A good prepped factory block, like say a D0VE-A with the thicker main webbing can handle the duty it takes to push a Fox into the low 9's....and cost much less!!

I agree that an eliminator block is not necessary. However, if it is decided to make more down the road, the block won't be a weak link.

There are many testimonials as to what CAN be accomplished with an O.E.M. production block however, upgrading to a better block will never do any harm. Unless cost is considered harm.

I am looking at a scat rotating assembly 1-47608BI. CP flat top pistons with 6cc valve reliefs, 4340 forged crank and rods. ARP8740 rod bolts. Am I going to be better off with a diamond pistons cut for the P-51's? With a 0 deck I can get close to 13:1 but I might have to mill the head to get more compression with the CP pistons. In theory that should yield some small cfm increase in the head by un-shrouding the valve correct? I don't mind sourcing each piece of the build individually, however, I live in Alaska and you can add 25-30% increase in budget due to shipping. For a reference, it costs 70-80 dollars to ship a cam, 200 to ship a set of heads, 50 to ship pushrods. It adds up quick, but the costs still won't outweigh the costs of inferior parts destroying an engine. I thank al;l you guys for the time and assistance.

If you are going to an Eliminator block, why limit the bore to 4.44"? 4.5', 4.56", 4.6", whatever, would help increase compression and power production at little, if any, reliability issues.

I believe the sportsman block max bore is 4.500" / 4.440" would give a few clean-ups down the road. Please correct me if I am wrong

My package is similar to what you want to do. It should get you into the high 8's I would think. I've been mostly 9.0s this year thru a full exhaust in cool weather and dont have a good pan or a vacuum pump. My top end is reliable with Morel lifters, T&D rockers, PAC springs and TI retainers. I did a 300 mile drag weekend trip this year without issues. The valves dont need much attention with about 50 passes between checks. I love those T&D's.
Other differences, I am 13.5 compression on E85 and 4.530 x 4.500 bore/stroke using an older 10 bolt A460 block.
I should be sneaking into the 8's for good next year by tuning up some mis-matched parts. I like everything that you are doing but you should go 4.500 bore to start or pick a block that can go to 4.600. There will be allot of room to bore out in the future. If you are budget minded then start at 4.440 bore for a catalog piston to save money.