7.50 CERT UPGRADE ?

So i was doing some pricing and to add the kidney bar and the foot bar and the 2 parellel bars to tie the foot bar in these guys want between 2500 - 3000 ..... theres maybe 100 in material needed ...why so much ?? does that sound right

Sounds high to me. I'd shop around some more.

bruno wrote:So i was doing some pricing and to add the kidney bar and the foot bar and the 2 parellel bars to tie the foot bar in these guys want between 2500 - 3000 ..... theres maybe 100 in material needed ...why so much ?? does that sound right

Nick,

OUCH! You need to bring your car to KY and have Bill update it for you. Look what' he's done with Chuck's new chassis and he will save you a ton of $$$

Would be best to remove all the stuff first to save even more money but you would need to speak with Bill about that.

bruno wrote:So i was doing some pricing and to add the kidney bar and the foot bar and the 2 parellel bars to tie the foot bar in these guys want between 2500 - 3000 ..... theres maybe 100 in material needed ...why so much ?? does that sound right

I was talking to a friend of mine and yours couple days ago,and a really good chassis builder priced him a new chassis welded using all of his existing components for $3500

Is that enough to get 7.50 cert. I'm getting ready to do a whole new cage for 8.50 cert. I thought you need a x-brace in the floor. It's not cheap to have somebody else do the work. We had our dragster up-graded an it wasn't cheap nice work though.

I'd shop the price...

I'd talk to some guys on here as well. Bill is doing good work on Chuck's car. What about that guy that is finishing up David Willingham's truck? He's in AL as well. I'm sure there are more. Just can't think of them. I'm still on my first cup of coffee...

guys to complete my 7.50 cert i need bars 6a, 6b, 6c ,15 in cars of unibody construction do not need 8a or 8b and do not need 4 ( center x brace) from what i read and what i was told from nhra officials

Did you get a pic of what its supposed to look like. Are you using m/s or chrome moly. Why not fit it yourself and get someone to finish weld it .

We did the 8.50 to 25.5 cert for less than $1000 including the welding but we already had a good chromoly 12 pt cage. We used a wolfe funny car kit and they supplied the remaining needed bars. No x under floor because of the stock floor. I agree with LUNCHBOX, buy the SFI book and do it yourself if you can TIG weld or just hire out the welding after you fit everything. Not that big of a job IMO.

I talked to guy here in MI and he quoted me 3800.00 for a 7.50 cert crome moly starting from scratch.

It's true that the center floor "X" (#4) & outboard floor diagonals (#8 A&B) might not be needed for a 25.5 cert on a car that still has the factory OEM rocker panels, door hinge pillars, firewall, & floors (welded to the inner frame rails/sub frame connectors). But adding these bars anyway is still a good idea for a few reasons. Even though they might not be "required" in this situation, they will add strength to the structure & make it more rigid. And if the bars are already there you wont have to add them later if you decide to upgrade. Just because the structure is SFI "safe" doesn't mean it's also as strong/rigid as it can be.

In my opinion if nothing else the center "X" really needs to be there in any situation regardless of the minimum rules just because it will keep the rear crossmember (#1) & inner frame rails (#2A) square to each other. Best way to keep a structure straight & square is to add a diagonal and/or an "X".

Larry Williams wrote:Team Z in Mi has good prices on cages

Look at their web site

Plus their work is top notch.

DILLIGASDAVE wrote:It's true that the center floor "X" (#4) & outboard floor diagonals (#8 A&B) might not be needed for a 25.5 cert on a car that still has the factory OEM rocker panels, door hinge pillars, firewall, & floors (welded to the inner frame rails/sub frame connectors). But adding these bars anyway is still a good idea for a few reasons. Even though they might not be "required" in this situation, they will add strength to the structure & make it more rigid. And if the bars are already there you wont have to add them later if you decide to upgrade. Just because the structure is SFI "safe" doesn't mean it's also as strong/rigid as it can be.

In my opinion if nothing else the center "X" really needs to be there in any situation regardless of the minimum rules just because it will keep the rear crossmember (#1) & inner frame rails (#2A) square to each other. Best way to keep a structure straight & square is to add a diagonal and/or an "X".

thxs for the input dave

It was a shade over 3k for my 25.5 upgrade.