Building headers?

TravisRice wrote:To get them close in length I take 4 equal sections of brake line to mock each tube up approx where they go. It really saves a lot of figuring ad keeps the tubes as equal as possible and place the collector where you need it to be.

Just a little trick that was passed on to me.

Travis

Good idea. I have used 3/8 aluminum fuel line before to make bend samples.

Re-usable aluminum

Tubing cutters only work on 90% cuts and not were the header is bent to curve.I know what you mean .

You can also use that flexible aluminum tubing crap that older cars used to go from the exhaust to the air cleaner. Not sure what it is called but most parts stores have them. You can then bend and shape what you are thinking.

I like jasonf's idea! it is about the right diameter, and that will help with clearance issues. plus it should be able to re-use.

Measuring the length of primary tubes accurately (at the tube's C/L) on headers with a lot of bends can be kinda hit/miss sometimes. Depending in the diameter of the tubing used, you can sometimes insert golf balls (or racket balls for really big OD primaries) in each primary tube to get a better idea of it's actual length (or close to it) as measured at the tube's C/L.

If you have a 2" O.D. header primary tube that will hold 14.5 golf balls (at aprox 1.68" OD each) that's a primary length at the C/L of about 24.36". Of course you have to allow some amount of fudge factor depending on how loose the balls fit in the tubing.

richter69 wrote:thats the new max effort flow model I did for procomp to work with their heads.

Jon, you wouldn't by chance be stealing some of that damn tasty procomp R&D money out from under a certain banned forum member behind his back now would you? Shame on you!

money well spent!!!!!!
http://www.holley.com/12105HKR.asp

chuck wrote:money well spent!!!!!!
http://www.holley.com/12105HKR.asp

Good call!

I'll never build another set with out them.

chuck wrote:I'll never build another set with out them.

That's one of those "why didn't I think of that" deals! I love the idea of no slag on the inside of the tubes. Has to help, and inexpensive too.

I can see where those "weld rings" might come in handy when Mig welding the thin wall header tubing so there's no slag buildup inside the tube. But I doubt they would really be beneficial when Tig welding. This is because the weld ring it's self would most likely be a larger restriction inside the tube than a proper sized Tig puddle ever could be.

You don't have to use any filler rod, when tig weld is used. Plus when your fitting them up on the car they will hold the tubes together with out a tack weld most of the time. If you ever try them, I think you'll like them.

chuck wrote:You don't have to use any filler rod, when tig weld is used. Plus when your fitting them up on the car they will hold the tubes together with out a tack weld most of the time. If you ever try them, I think you'll like them.

I have seen them, I still like my way better. The splits in the weld rings can sometimes create alignment problems if a header tube's weld joint is cut from the bend section of a tight J-bend vs a straight section.


Plus the "no filler rod needed" thing is not going to be much help when Tig welding if your wanting silicon/bronze as the filler material at the weld joint instead of having 100% steel filler material. And when all is said & done the ring it's self is still an added restriction inside the tube vs no ring at all.

In my opinion simple hose clamps with 3, 4, or 5 holes drilled around them are the best alignment tool. The drilled holes provide convenient "windows" to tack weld the tube joint with a steel filler rod. Then you remove the hose clamps & finish up the welding with a silicon/bronze rod.

Thanks for the idea, I'm always willing to learn!