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Post  Nevs on May 4th 2010, 7:23 am

DILLIGASDAVE wrote:Are you going to chop the rest of the inner body structure out (like the inner rockers, inner roof, & the inside of the A/B/C pillars)? If you chop out the inner pillars you can re-bend what's left of each pillar's deep window frame/flange & make them only an 1/8" deep to flush mount the window flange/frames for Lexan. That way you won't have to use a bunch of that spacer crap & long screws to flush mount the Lexan.

Lot of weight there as well, not to mention the cowl area......that would be gone in a heart beat. Idea
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Post  Northwest outlaw on May 4th 2010, 10:57 am

yea i still have a lot of cutting to do after i split the 2 ill do some more cutting...All the yellow still has to be cut out.
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Post  billandlori on May 4th 2010, 8:03 pm

Looks great Jason!! That kit fits real nice.

I would figger a 2x4 wood jig is just fine if your only using it once. As mentioned there is always the fire thing....... bom

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Post  '65 T-BOLT on May 4th 2010, 10:33 pm

fire thing! break out the hot dogs and marsh mellows!....so an expensive jig is not needed? that's good news. the Tang is going to be lllooowwwww! I am putting mine at 6"... the car was at 8 rear and 9 front. I know WTF! I need to learn how to post pictures.
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Post  Northwest outlaw on May 4th 2010, 11:11 pm

I will build a good chassis table down the road but now im using this set just have to take your time welding...If you have a photobucket acc you just copty the img. code and post it and the pic will show.
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Post  '65 T-BOLT on May 4th 2010, 11:16 pm

Thanks! I will try it tomorrow...4 am comes way to damn early!
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Post  Northwest outlaw on May 4th 2010, 11:19 pm

I hear you on that i hear the icecream calling me and movie night...
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Post  jbozzelle on May 5th 2010, 9:01 am

Does that jig holds its squareness over time? I would think it would move around as the temp changes and maybe if it gets wet?

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Post  Northwest outlaw on May 5th 2010, 9:37 am

yes it can move i double check all bar be for i start working on it but when you have the main bars in chances of it move are to slim to none..The only way i will do it again is with a jig/chassis table a lot of time wasted double checking things Smile but i didnt want to build one for it to sit out side no shop yet.
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Post  Northwest outlaw on May 7th 2010, 3:20 pm

VID IS NOT WORK SAFE!!!!!!!!!!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RZB2NSvaIOU
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Post  the Coug on May 7th 2010, 4:21 pm

JAson if you cut out the Door Jams what the Hell are you going to mount the chassis too? I saw another guy cut it all out and figured out he screwed up and had to go find another body..... Think about it long before you get cut happy......... what are you going to mount the chassis too and what is the windshield going to mount too?




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Post  Northwest outlaw on May 7th 2010, 4:36 pm

Yea i see what your talking about Randy im leaving the bottom of the rocker and winshild im leaving the frame and cowling its had to see in the pic. I did it real fast in paint. Ill take a double look at it.
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Post  the Coug on May 7th 2010, 4:52 pm

Jason I just wanted to point it out so you would be aware of it.... like I said I saw another guy do it and he was pissed cuz he cut to much without thinking about it so he had to junk a perfectly good body and buy another one..... I would leave it till after you got the frame built then if you need to cut it away then do so but just don't cut it till you know it can go...... another words measure 5 times then cut once.... after you know it will work...... affraid


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Post  Northwest outlaw on May 7th 2010, 4:57 pm

Yea i hear you on that. Im taking my time on this car its getting done no side tracks.
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Post  DILLIGASDAVE on May 7th 2010, 11:03 pm

If someone wanted to cut out all of the factory front door jams & bottom windshield lip/cowl area, (a continuation of the "max effort" thinking on gutting the body shell) hanging the body shell & doors can still be done with a little planning.

As mentioned earlier the bulky bottom factory cowl/windshield mounting lip/flange can be replaced with a curved piece of 1/2" or 3/8" tubing with tabs welded to it. It's a great option for both steel & 'glass body applications where the bottom windshield lip/flange is to be welded to the chassis (attached to the windshield bars & the firewall) instead of the body shell. Or a new light weight bottom windshield lip/flange is formed out of .035" sheet metal with an 1/8" deep shallow flange to flush mount the Lexan. With this method you again weld the new lip/flange to the chassis/firewall instead of the body.

Both methods allow you to "fudge" the curved angle of the bottom of the windshield to increase the curvature (bulge) of the hood/cowl line to help make more under hood room for valve covers (if needed). And if you want, both methods can also be welded to the body instead (vs welding to the chassis/firewall). But you have to be careful when moving/handling the body shell when it's not on the chassis because the new lip/flange can easily get bent/twisted when not supported by the chassis/firewall.


And as for the bulky factory front door jams, they are mostly useless on a lot of full chassis cars that have either 'glass doors or heavily gutted steel doors IF the doors are light enough to use light weight lift-off door hinges made of small tubing. But if your doors are heavy enough that they still need the factory type hinge, then you also probably need the factory front door jams. And a cage that doesn't fit real tight also pretty much dictates the need of the factory door jams since cage bars sitting real close to the doors is what the lightweight lift-off hinges made of small tubing are best hung from.

When hanging a steel body shell that has had every last possible bit of unnecessary inner body structure removed it's really best to think of that body as if it were really a 'glass body. This is because at that point you have cut out enough material it's just easier to mount the max gutted steel shell on the chassis in very much the same way a 'glass body is (as in bolts/nuts/tabs, & Dzus buttons vs welding it on the chassis). Check out how they hung the body on 86bigblockbird's 'glass Mustang, same methods are also effective on a max gutted steel shell too if the cage fits tight enough.
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Post  Northwest outlaw on May 7th 2010, 11:41 pm

Cool deal thank for the info.Just a little update....
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Post  mustang68mustangs1 on May 8th 2010, 6:40 pm

Very nice man! I really like how you did that bar for the helmet cage for lack of better terminology. Some fancy bending! I'm an electrician so I can appreciate some fancy bends in pipe.I assume its all chromoly.
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Post  '65 T-BOLT on May 9th 2010, 1:55 am

Bob! I know what you mean..I too am an Electrician, I work with a bunch of fools that bend conduit and looks like poop!
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Post  Northwest outlaw on May 9th 2010, 11:34 am

No i got the kit from S&W race cars but putting my little twist on it. The kit is a MS after i get this one done and motor combo working right im going to start on 25.1 cm chassis and a chassis table.
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Post  DILLIGASDAVE on May 9th 2010, 11:56 am

Maybe it's just an optical illusion of the pics but the front FC cage bars look to sit well forward of where the front of the helmet will be. If they are sitting well forward of the helmet face then you might think about moving them back a little. And if your placing seat back as close to the wheel tubs as possible (for the most leg room possible) that's another reason to move the FC bars back some more to make it easier to get in/out of the car.

Unlike dragster/funnycar/roadster cages where the front bars have to sit at least 3" ahead of the helmet face, a "door car" FC cage's front bars really only need to be forward just enough to sit flush/even with the helmet face.

Just something to think about......
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Post  Northwest outlaw on May 9th 2010, 1:10 pm

Yea its the pic and the seat got moved back the seat has to foward about 4". I hear you on the leg room thats a must for me. Good eye Dave.
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Post  Northwest outlaw on May 10th 2010, 8:51 pm

Well work on the car a little today broke the noz tip on my welder so some of the bars are just sitting in there.
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Post  bigblockfox468 on May 10th 2010, 9:10 pm

Looking good. Your getten there. I kinda know what cha mean Wink
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Post  '65 T-BOLT on May 10th 2010, 10:32 pm

yep! it is coming along nicely! I just made part of my frame jig/ what ever you want to call it. I used some 3x3 tubing welded together. my ride height will be 6" to the bottom of the rocker.
Northwest....yours looks like 4" am I correct?
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Post  Northwest outlaw on May 10th 2010, 11:43 pm

Yes the rockers are 4" and the chassis is sitting at 5".
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