Titanium Valves

Charlie,

would my edelbrock deal have benefited using Titanium valves ?

thanks Nick

I just did the intakes, valve size and rpm is what made my decision, and honestly I was right on the fence about it. If I had a 1000 bucks to spend and I didnt already have a Danny Bee, A460 block, forged crank, kick ass oil pan and pump etc I would have not spent it on the ti valves.

Nick, Given the power band of your package [and most other CJ engines] I'd think the use of Ti valves would be of marginal value. I.M.O. the $s would be better spent on a set of higher developed castings.

bruno wrote:Charlie,

would my edelbrock deal have benefited using Titanium valves ?

thanks Nick

Nick,

Sure they would have, to some degree. Your intake valve is a 2.250" with a 5.265" long stem and weighs 139 grams. It kind of depends on how much real time your engine spends above 7000 rpm, as Darin has already said. In other words if you are running 1/8th mile races, then your valvetrain doesn't spend as much time above 7000 rpm as it does when you are running 1/4 mile races.

I have seen a pulling truck engine go into severe valve float on the dyno at around 7100-7200 rpm with a stainless steel valve and the horspower took a nose dive. When we pointed that out to the engine builder, then he called Manley and got some titanium intake valves and it made a world of difference. The engine had the EX-514 cast iron heads (rules) and the intake valve he had weighed 168.5 grams. The new Manley's weighed around 110 grams.

I am working on a rare set of Blue Thunder cast iron CJ heads for a puller right now. They have titanium intake valves and stainless steel exhaust valves. If he could afford titanium exhaust valves he should be running them too, but he can't. Because the pulling truck guys spin their engines to 8500 rpm or more, IMO titanium valves is automatically manditory for them.

Nick, getting back to your heads. You presently have Edelbrocks on the car, but you have a set of FRPP C-460 heads setting on the shelf in the garage. Before I spent anymore money on the Eddys, I would switch to the C-460 heads which are a huge upgrade. Then be prepared to buy a full set of titanium valves for them. That is an appropriate combo.

Hope this helps,

Uncle Charlie

My bad.........Nick I did not know you have a pulling truck .

Lem Evans wrote:My bad.........Nick I did not know you have a pulling truck .

Lem Evans wrote:My bad.........Nick I did not know you have a pulling truck .

damn i miss all the fun stuff

I believe they are forged into blanks then machined.

Problem is Cost of Material, not the manufacture Process IMO

I think you guys don't understand the automobile manufacturers criteria ... "adequate" as opposed to what is "best" is the target they shoot for.

when ordering a set of titanium intake valves to replace the stock SS ones (TFS 2.350) do you have to do anything but install them? heads have never been ran...

my street car ,my "67 Mustang GTA with MR 427 sideoiler has had Ti valves in it for over 20 years!! When I started to get scared of the Hollow stem stainless and the stainless hollow stem sodium filler exhaust valves as they'd been in the motor 22years of extreme abuse!(1990)
Frank

138 wrote:when ordering a set of titanium intake valves to replace the stock SS ones (TFS 2.350) do you have to do anything but install them? heads have never been ran...

Yes and no. The no part first. When ordering titanium valves in order to replace stainless steel valves, they can't be the exact same dimensions. For example, if your TFS 2.350" intake valve 5.750" with a .250" tip,,,,,you will want to add about .010 to .015" to that margin thickness and then add .040" to the tip length for a new tip length of .290". So a new titanium valve to replace 5.750" long valve, now becomes 5.800" long.

The reason that you add tip length is for the hardened stellite tip that is installed. You do not want a stress riser running from the post hole of the tip over to the keeper groove.

Also, with tianium valves nowadays, we also use a radial or "Bead-Loc" groove, instead of a square cornered traditional keeper groove.

So, yes, you can replace yourstainless steel valve with a titanium valve of proper dimensions, (normally about +.050" longer). A the same time you will need to replace you 10* locks/keepers which have a square cronered groove, with radial groove locks, such as Manley "Bead-Locs".

Hope this helps,

Charlie Evans

yes that helps...thanks once again.