Re: New style starter.....Heros wanted

fatal addiction on September 10th 2010, 12:21 pm

bbf-falcon wrote:
frank13 wrote:in ten minutes we swapped out starters!!!!! BUT i guess we missed a small piece of the old starter gear...and of course that found its way into th enew starter when starting , and destroyed the new gear on the new starter instantly.....so much fun.....so back to advance tomorrow!

as for the timing, thankfully it started when it killed the gear, and when we bumped the timing she sounded sooo much better, but I am curious, either the timing light is off, or something is weird as it reads at 20 degrees....temp bumped to 180 constant, and the oil pressure which is usually at like 70-80 dropped to 40-45

sound kosher or no

And guys please feel free to dumb the info down for me.....pretend i have never ever done this before! Cause i havent....but i will say I did find a way to strip my car, build the motor, do all the electrical, suspension, cage, sheetmetal, ect myself! which i am proud of, but who knows if it is right or not! All i know is it works.....but please use simple english or explain any tech terms

Frank,don't feel bad.It's not a crime to ask a honest about something. Checking the phase is pretty simple though. Just drill the hole in the cap like Dan said,hook up the regular timing light wire (Clamp)to #1 cyl.and start the engine.When you pull the trigger have it pointed in the hole in the cap and it should be firing in the hole on #1.
the trigger

not trying to high jack some one elses post but i put in a new 8577 msd distributor and my car starts very hard and does the whole back fire thing also could my distributor need rotor phased also or is that just for crank trigger diistributors...thanks

bbf-falcon on September 10th 2010, 12:34 pm

Crank Trigger dist's dont have any wire's coming from them,because the leads from the ign.box go down and connect to crk sensor instead of the dizzy. Smile

richter69 on September 10th 2010, 12:39 pm

fatal addiction wrote:
bbf-falcon wrote:
frank13 wrote:in ten minutes we swapped out starters!!!!! BUT i guess we missed a small piece of the old starter gear...and of course that found its way into th enew starter when starting , and destroyed the new gear on the new starter instantly.....so much fun.....so back to advance tomorrow!

as for the timing, thankfully it started when it killed the gear, and when we bumped the timing she sounded sooo much better, but I am curious, either the timing light is off, or something is weird as it reads at 20 degrees....temp bumped to 180 constant, and the oil pressure which is usually at like 70-80 dropped to 40-45

sound kosher or no

And guys please feel free to dumb the info down for me.....pretend i have never ever done this before! Cause i havent....but i will say I did find a way to strip my car, build the motor, do all the electrical, suspension, cage, sheetmetal, ect myself! which i am proud of, but who knows if it is right or not! All i know is it works.....but please use simple english or explain any tech terms

Frank,don't feel bad.It's not a crime to ask a honest about something. Checking the phase is pretty simple though. Just drill the hole in the cap like Dan said,hook up the regular timing light wire (Clamp)to #1 cyl.and start the engine.When you pull the trigger have it pointed in the hole in the cap and it should be firing in the hole on #1.
the trigger

not trying to high jack some one elses post but i put in a new 8577 msd distributor and my car starts very hard and does the whole back fire thing also could my distributor need rotor phased also or is that just for crank trigger diistributors...thanks

you need to check it, i had hard starting issues and put the starter saver on and it made it worse.........to the point of knocking out two drives. I checked the phase and it was way off.........had to slot the cap adapter where it bolts to the housing to get it right..........started perfect after that.

fatal addiction on September 10th 2010, 10:39 pm

sorry guys i'm having a hard time understanding this Embarassed

but if i have 28* total timing and i slot the cap screw holes and phase my cap so the rotor is dead on the # 1 wire or terminal won't that change my timing Embarassed

all i know is i havent broke a starter yeaht but the way it's been starting it's going to happen really soon i can feel it...thanks eric

f250mike on September 10th 2010, 10:57 pm

Frank we use to just heat the gear with a torch until it was loose enough to slide off.
Never had a broken tooth though. Always just flipped the gear over to get the starter on the unused area of the teeth.

mike

frank13 on September 11th 2010, 5:31 am

ok so here is a stupid question....i think the number 2 and 3 plug wires were switched when we changed plugs.....would that cause the backfire through the carb like i explained?

the rotor phase thing seems correct if i did it right...
timing is set to about 12 initial

only thing i think i realized is the plug wires for 2 and 3 cylnders MAY have been switched...i think they were my buddy thinks there were right...

its just getting annoying...anyone near the phila area wanna check it out?

Also I am rebuilding a 1050 dom carb to replace the edel 750 carb on it now......can someone please give me a good starting point to set it up....power valve or not, jetting, ect.....does not have adjustable airbleeds.......i cant find the stock settings for it, so a good street/strip starting point would be great......motor is a 30 over 10.5:1 pump gas,with pi heads, stealth, bypass reg, ect.

carb is a 9375-2....was intedned to be used as a dual carb setup, i want to use it for a single carb setup up

bcr466 on September 11th 2010, 3:39 pm

Yes crosswire can/will cause backfire. Another thing is I may be mistaken but I think the starter drive is different on a manual vs automatic. You say yours is a man. so make sure the starter is correct.

frank13 on September 11th 2010, 10:32 pm

ok , so today

a. final wiring on the alt.....
b. triple checked the plug wires, which i swear had 2 and 3 swapped....
c. started car----NO BACK FIRE, IDLED PERFECT, HAD LOTS OF BALLS, SOUNDED INCREDIBLE.....HAS NOT SOUNDED THIS GOOD YET!

i truly think the biggest problem was the plug wires were switched, and the ignition was getting a good power source without the alt....i think the electric fan, igniton and the electric pump were draining the battery too fast......

starter worked fine. no issues at all tonight, even went back an hour later to start her again and she fired just as nice and idled just as smooth

SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO happy!

res0rli9 on September 11th 2010, 11:11 pm

Dats

95lightiningguy on September 12th 2010, 1:38 am

congratulations on getting it all worked out. cheers

bbf-falcon on September 12th 2010, 7:22 am

Glad ya got it Frank,and nice talkin to ya Smile

fatal addiction on September 12th 2010, 1:38 pm

well it must of been a good weekend cause i figured mine out also i unhooked the start retard and it fires right up and sounds great made a few good passes yesterday but i got screwed on my time. thats the biggest down fall in mud racing in the rain Sad

heres a video

eric

frank13 on September 12th 2010, 8:30 pm

ok , so i went back to the garage tonight to check on the car...wanted to make sure last night was no fluke....well, it was not a fluke at all.....starts right up, no backfire, no misses, jumps from 750 to 4000 in the blink of an eye......i swear it took 3 seconds before i sorted this out.....car feels like a new beast now.....heading to the dyno on thursday to see whats in her, then the track sat night or sunday night.....

so without starting a new thread, i need some carb rebuild advice/starting point advice.....

I have an older 9375 1050 dominator carb.....she is all torn down and spotless.....now i wanna put it back together and get it to a good starting place.....

1. power valves---use or no? if so what size
2. jetting , primary and secondary sizes....
3. there are two different gaskets, how do i know which one to use......well really there are three, but one is clear....is one for 2, and one for a 3 circuit carb

droppedf100 on September 13th 2010, 1:22 am

Use a powervalve up front and block the rear if you are street driving it. Run rear jets that are 6-8 sizes bigger than the front. Or else block both and square the jets up. Not sure what sizes to start with. Where are you dynoing it at?

This is an instruction sheet for the carb.
http://holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R9786-2.pdf
If I were you Id call Holley and ask them where to start. Give them all the numbers from the carb so they know exactly what year model it is.

nuclearcobra on September 14th 2010, 7:51 am

The factory settings for that carb are as follows, jets are 92-92 primary and secondary, neddle and seats are #6-504, no power valve front or rear, .035 squiters for both the rebuild kit is #37-487