training wheels

seriously how far above the track should a 60" wheely bar be set? from the middle of the wheel to the track surface?

ladderbar and coil overs front and rear a tube chassis car. the '68 mustang

A lot of times with a 4-link I just start at about 4 - 4.5" from the bottom/6 - 6.5" from the center and work from there. But it truly is a guessing game depending on how violent a given car might be & how much sidewall the combo has available to wind-up. Testing is the only way to find a given car's ideal number.

As your slick choice's diameter and/or sidewall height (at rest) increases in size, wheelie bar height might also need to increase if a car combo shows it's prone to really wind-up the sidewalls a bunch. So a 34.5" OD slick with a ton of sidewall to possibly wind-up might need more wheelie bar height than a smaller 29" OD slick. But on the other hand if a given car is much more violent with the smaller 29" OD slick, then it might be the one that needs more wheelie bar height.

And ladder bar cars might also need to use a little more wheelie bar height (depending on how violent the car is) to keep from unloading the slicks.

thanks Dave now I have the starting point I needed

Larry

i had mine at 8.5"to the wheel and still had issues with unloading the tire.with ladder bar's you should get a good video of how the car's working so you can get some idea where to start.a 60"will be easier than the 70"i run,to tune anyway,but like dave said it's gona depend on how the tire works.if your car gets the frontend up easy you'll need the bars higher.i'd get a video FIRST and see what it's doen.why are you putting bars on?

cool40 wrote:.......i had mine at 8.5"to the wheel and still had issues with unloading the tire.......

Sometimes unloading the slicks even with a higher wheel height can be caused by a few things.......

A few possible causes are having the rear shock extension valving set too loose (harder suspension "hit"), having slick air pressure too low (over-winding the sidewalls), & having front strut/shock extension valving set too loose.

And some times it's just a deal where the "ideal" wheel height might have been over shot by mistake a given amount that allows the car to build just enough extra inertia/energy "on the way up" that the bars in effect don't "catch" the wheelstand in time. Wheelie bars unloading the slicks with the nose only 2-3" in the air is a lot less violent disruption than unloading the slicks with the nose 10-12" (or more) in the air.