9 INCH TECH QUESTIONS

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Post  frank13 on March 13th 2011, 7:53 pm

ok, so i need to get new axles for it now.

i need 5 bolt stock length axle for disc brakes....current axles on rear are 4 bolt for drums

anyone know the size i need to order.....


also has anyone ever used the currie ctl axles?
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Post  Mike R on March 13th 2011, 8:39 pm

Call Currie Tell them your housing width and the brakes you plan to run. Let them do the math.

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Post  frank13 on March 15th 2011, 12:22 pm

oK, so i want to strip the paint off the rear to do a re-paint and make it look super pretty!

And recommendations....Just sandpaper and time, the paint stripping disc you can attach to a drill, grinder with wire wheel, chemical?

then i assume, primer, three coats of black and two coats of clear?
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Post  the1969fordguyinky on April 1st 2011, 10:10 am

I used "chasis saver" on my rear end. Black only. It looks nice and shiney but will dull in sunlight. Mine still looks good after 5 years. Way tougher than paint. It goes by other names too...
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Post  res0rli9 on April 1st 2011, 4:09 pm

the1969fordguyinky wrote:I used "chasis saver" on my rear end. Black only. It looks nice and shiney but will dull in sunlight. Mine still looks good after 5 years. Way tougher than paint. It goes by other names too...

Where do ya get it?


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Post  the1969fordguyinky on April 1st 2011, 5:02 pm

I got it from Auto Paint and Performance in Shepherdsville, KY. They sell Matrix products, so I would say anywhere that sells Matrix would have that brand, but any auto paint store will have the same type thing. Pretty neat, the demo peice was tin covered with product and you could flex it with the stuff bending with the metal and not flaking off.
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Post  NO FAIR on April 1st 2011, 10:51 pm

studly wrote:
whatbumper wrote:http://www.quickperformance.com/index.htm


X2


X3 These guys are the best!
Dave
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Post  FORDMANLCRACKEL on August 14th 2016, 3:48 pm

DILLIGASDAVE wrote:Here's my ancient housing jig setup I made years ago. The C/L alignment bar works with both small & big bearing housing ends. And the jig table rotate 360* to make it easier to do assorted welding on housings.
9 INCH TECH QUESTIONS - Page 2 Housingalignmentjig-table1


The C/L alignment bar it's self isn't used to hold the housing straight while other assorted welding is done to the housing (brackets, back brace, etc, etc) that's not it's job. Holding the housing "straight" (tweaking/preloading the axle tube centerlines around if necessary) while welding on the housing is done by bolting/clamping/tack welding the housing to the jig table. The C/L alignment bar's only job is to hold the housing ends in place while tacking/welding them in place. This is done after all the other assorted welding is done to the housing.

I have just bought the C/L alignment bar kit for bearing ends. What is the best method of tacking/welding the ends to the housing using MIG?
Thanks
Lonnie
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Post  DILLIGASDAVE on August 15th 2016, 4:10 am

FORDMANLCRACKEL wrote:........What is the best method of tacking/welding the ends to the housing using MIG?....

IMO regardless if Mig or Tig is used try to square up (grind/dress) the shortened housing tube with the bearing end as much as possible. This is because if the end of the cut housing tube isn't real square with the bearing end (which can leave a large weld gap/seam to fill on one side) the extra heat/filler rod used to fill that larger gap on one side can pull the bearing end off-center as it cools.

Also always grind a slight 45* chamfer around the cut/shortened/dressed end of the housing tubes (before welding on the bearing ends) to help aid welding heat penetration. Especially true when Mig welding since the Mig process has a colder start/initial puddle. In fact if the Mig welding process is used (and depending on the housing tube thickness & the size of the Mig machine) the "cooler" Mig welder might need a little extra "help" with heat penetration by grinding a little larger chamfer on the dressed end of the housing tubes than you would for Tig.

And because Mig is a "colder" welding process always try to start (if possible of course) a Mig puddle/pass on clean weld seam/gap away from tack welds or the "starting point" of another Mig puddle/pass. Try to plan out your tack weld placements & plan out your weld pass order/direction so that you only run the middle of a Mig weld puddle/pass over tack welds, and/or run the end a Mig weld pass on top of tack welds (or the end of another weld pass) after the puddle heat has been fully established to better help "burn-in" a tack weld, or burn-in start/end of another puddle/pass. Starting a Mig pass on top of a tack weld, or starting on top of another start/end of another puddle just isn't the best idea (again if possible, but sometimes it can't be avoided).  

Starting a weld puddle on top of a tack weld (or on top of other weld pass) isn't as big a deal with Tig welding because you can control how hot the parent metal gets before adding filler rod. Plus the tack welds are a lot smaller size with Tig so they are a lot easier to burn-in.

Four tack welds is usually enough for Mig (for me anyway). Using too many tack welds when Mig welding the bearing ends on can lead to less heat penetration as the weld puddle cools a little each time you run over a tack weld.

IMO use ER70S-6 solid Mig wire, & for more heat penetration use straight CO2 gas vs 75/25.
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Post  FORDMANLCRACKEL on August 16th 2016, 12:24 pm

DILLIGASDAVE wrote:
FORDMANLCRACKEL wrote:........What is the best method of tacking/welding the ends to the housing using MIG?....

IMO regardless if Mig or Tig is used try to square up (grind/dress) the shortened housing tube with the bearing end as much as possible. This is because if the end of the cut housing tube isn't real square with the bearing end (which can leave a large weld gap/seam to fill on one side) the extra heat/filler rod used to fill that larger gap on one side can pull the bearing end off-center as it cools.

Also always grind a slight 45* chamfer around the cut/shortened/dressed end of the housing tubes (before welding on the bearing ends) to help aid welding heat penetration. Especially true when Mig welding since the Mig process has a colder start/initial puddle. In fact if the Mig welding process is used (and depending on the housing tube thickness & the size of the Mig machine) the "cooler" Mig welder might need a little extra "help" with heat penetration by grinding a little larger chamfer on the dressed end of the housing tubes than you would for Tig.

And because Mig is a "colder" welding process always try to start (if possible of course) a Mig puddle/pass on clean weld seam/gap away from tack welds or the "starting point" of another Mig puddle/pass. Try to plan out your tack weld placements & plan out your weld pass order/direction so that you only run the middle of a Mig weld puddle/pass over tack welds, and/or run the end a Mig weld pass on top of tack welds (or the end of another weld pass) after the puddle heat has been fully established to better help "burn-in" a tack weld, or burn-in start/end of another puddle/pass. Starting a Mig pass on top of a tack weld, or starting on top of another start/end of another puddle just isn't the best idea (again if possible, but sometimes it can't be avoided).  

Starting a weld puddle on top of a tack weld (or on top of other weld pass) isn't as big a deal with Tig welding because you can control how hot the parent metal gets before adding filler rod. Plus the tack welds are a lot smaller size with Tig so they are a lot easier to burn-in.

Four tack welds is usually enough for Mig (for me anyway). Using too many tack welds when Mig welding the bearing ends on can lead to less heat penetration as the weld puddle cools a little each time you run over a tack weld.

IMO use ER70S-6 solid Mig wire, & for more heat penetration use straight CO2 gas vs 75/25.

I have a Miller 252 MIG The tubes are 3.25 OD and wall thickness is.234. My plans on tack welds are 12,3,6 and 9 oclock with the tubes 45* chamfer.  (First i will do some pratice welds with some of the tubing that is cut off the housing.) Should a complete weld 360* around tubes or maybe 90* of weld opposite each other?

Thanks again
Lonnie
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Post  69F100 on August 16th 2016, 3:20 pm

I would do a complete 360 weld without stopping if possible. That way your weld has the same cool down time and will be stronger. The more you have to stop the more you will have cold spots in the weld making it weaker.
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Post  FORDMANLCRACKEL on August 17th 2016, 5:15 pm

69F100 wrote:I would do a complete 360 weld without stopping if possible. That way your weld has the same cool down time and will be stronger. The more you have to stop the more you will have cold spots in the weld making it weaker.

Thats my thinking also, but wanted to make sure.

Thanks
Lonnie
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Post  DILLIGASDAVE on August 17th 2016, 11:08 pm

IMO doing a one pass 360* weld around the housing tube/bearing end weld seam is kinda hard to pull off Tig or Mig (for me anyway) without some form of an automated housing rotator.

With a housing sitting on my jig table I can usually get a weld pass around 1/3 of the way around the tube before having to stop & either re position my hand/torch placement, and/or rotate the jig table to continue welding.
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