Need help---starter problems---460 to Powerglide trans.

We'll find out next week. The case and bell came in today. Dropping it off at the shop on Monday to get the internals swapped over.

If you got the ATI supercase and the bellhousing, then it should be no different at all.

I am running their flexplate, which is offset towards the engine the same amount as the adapter ring pushes the flexplate out---so it has nothing to do with the bellhousing.

I am trying a new starter this weekend and I will report back if that fixes the problem or not.

Well the new starter turns over the engine great---no more grinding, its perfect.........

BUT

Its a different style of starter and one of my header tubes does not clear it.

Is it the Ford truck starter.

No, I went with this one: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-820048-M/

3.1 hp motor, 4.44 gear reduction. I turns over my 16:1 572 with no problems.

It's clockable so you should be able to turn it to clear the headers.

Yes, I tried it in several different locations. Everytime 1 of the 4 tubes was in the way. Talk about being frustrated, I must have installed and removed the starter 8 or 9 times. In any case I got so frustrated that I walked away yesterday before I started throwing things. I will try again today---its clockable to so many different spots that one of them has to work.

In any case, at least the car turns over great now, and worst case scenario I will just need to get one of the header tubes modified if I can't get it to fit.

I have one of those same starters. It works good but the front of the starter is a little longer than some of the other starters that are the same style as that one. I have a CVR starter that is a tad shorter and fits my oil pan and diaper better. No header problems fortunately.

richter69 wrote:I'll venture a guess the mini ford truck starter would have worked and cleared just fine..,...........prolly last longer to boot..........

x2.........and a hole lot cheaper.

The Ford truck mini starter didn't work for me! Maybe it was because it was a NAPA made in China POS, first one was defective, as it had no support bushing in the nose of the starter - I could move the shaft a quarter inch side to side. The second one just didn't have the balls to turn the motor over, and they didn't want to give me my money back until i gave my buddy (who works for NAPA) a demonstration. I started the motor with my rebuilt Tilton, and then installed the old starter from my son's 302 (bolt and nut on the upper hole), it started my engine easily - long story short - I got my money back!

Wayne (SAWDOFF) Pearce

Question for psfracer.

I just had the ATI case and Chevy pattern bell bolted to a 1/2" midplate with a JW wheel. The starter bolted to the midplate and the JW wheel put the ring gear in the factory spot.

I'm now going to buy a Ford pattern bell and bolt it o the engine using a 1/8" midplate. Do you think I'll have issues like you did. Or were your problems just due to the ATI adapter bushing vs starter setup? Did the starter bolt to the bell on the Ford bell?

Yeah, my starter bolts directly to the bell, as I am not running a midplate. I got a new starter and the "throw" or how the starter engaged was different, thereby correcting the problem. I did not change the bell, the flexplate, or the hub/crank adapter. I left it just as pictured in the beginning of this thread. It starts great now.

I did notice the the ring gear on the flexplate is offset the exact amount of the hub/crank adapter. Here is how the car starts now (with no other changes other then a new starter):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L1L3sz2UMws

On your new setup, are you having the starter bolt directly to the bell (like mine) or is it going to bolt to the mid plate?

I'll check the misplace. I think the starter bolts to the bell. If that's the case I should be good.