purging out

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Re: purging out

Post  DILLIGASDAVE on June 26th 2011, 3:26 am

Agreed, purging both ways is best. First to air, then through engine.

The purge to air gets most of the trapped air out of the main line up to the purge solenoid. The engine bang purges the last remaining bit of trapped air out of the system all the way up to the fogger solenoids.

You might not see a visible purge to air plume on some cars because some guys point the purge tube directly at the intake (as a way cool it some) instead of pointing the tube out from under the hood at the windshield.

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Re: purging out

Post  nuclearcobra on July 7th 2011, 2:40 pm

Well next time i do spray i will try purging it through the motor after i purge it in the air Very Happy what the heck it makes since to me it can only hit that much harder Twisted Evil And depending on how the atmosphere is that day or night will have everything to do with how big and white the plume is,my purge line is pointed straight up in front of the windshield not at it and depending on the air outside its sometimes hard to see and other times its outragous like your purging a whole bottle empty. And Barney purging in the air isnt just for pressure its also to clean the line from the bottle to the solenoids as well.

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Re: purging out

Post  Barney on July 7th 2011, 6:01 pm

nuclearcobra wrote:Well next time i do spray i will try purging it through the motor after i purge it in the air Very Happy what the heck it makes since to me it can only hit that much harder Twisted Evil And depending on how the atmosphere is that day or night will have everything to do with how big and white the plume is,my purge line is pointed straight up in front of the windshield not at it and depending on the air outside its sometimes hard to see and other times its outragous like your purging a whole bottle empty. And Barney purging in the air isnt just for pressure its also to clean the line from the bottle to the solenoids as well.
Really.

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Re: purging out

Post  BOSS 429 on July 7th 2011, 7:13 pm

DILLIGASDAVE wrote:Agreed, purging both ways is best. First to air, then through engine.

The purge to air gets most of the trapped air out of the main line up to the purge solenoid. The engine bang purges the last remaining bit of trapped air out of the system all the way up to the fogger solenoids.

You might not see a visible purge to air plume on some cars because some guys point the purge tube directly at the intake (as a way cool it some) instead of pointing the tube out from under the hood at the windshield.



nhra,and others FORBID purging anywhere but up, because of cheating, spraying under hood for carb to suck extra in down track

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Re: purging out

Post  DILLIGASDAVE on July 7th 2011, 9:23 pm

BOSS 429 wrote:nhra,and others FORBID purging anywhere but up, because of cheating, spraying under hood for carb to suck extra in down track

Around here the motto you keep hearing is "screw the money grubbing NHRA, I'm doing it my way". cheers

Some of the local guys around here that run ADRL/Outlaw cars might never run an NHRA national/divisional event & pretty much setup things the way they want to. The Outlaw cars are pretty much anything goes (other than of course the driver safety stuff), purge exit placement at any desired point, any desired amount of ballast hung out-on the nose, you want to try and make 4, 5, or 6 (or ???) nitrous stages work on your car....fine, you want to run some nitro in the mix....fine, you want to try nitro & nitrous together......fine, you want to put a screw blower AND twin turbos on a car.....go for it, you want to run the front end lower than 3" off the ground......if it don't flicker the stage beams it's all good.Twisted Evil

If they keep hammering the little guy the NHRA is going to be the death of the sport Mad . The 3 "big tire" Outlaw shows we have here (outlaw pro mods, automatic pro mods, outlaw top sportman) & the assorted "small tire" shows really keep the 4-5 local tracks damn busy month to month. Very Happy

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Re: purging out

Post  nuclearcobra on July 8th 2011, 5:30 am

Barney wrote:
nuclearcobra wrote:Well next time i do spray i will try purging it through the motor after i purge it in the air Very Happy what the heck it makes since to me it can only hit that much harder Twisted Evil And depending on how the atmosphere is that day or night will have everything to do with how big and white the plume is,my purge line is pointed straight up in front of the windshield not at it and depending on the air outside its sometimes hard to see and other times its outragous like your purging a whole bottle empty. And Barney purging in the air isnt just for pressure its also to clean the line from the bottle to the solenoids as well.
Really.
Yeah really

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Re: purging out

Post  Barney on July 8th 2011, 6:29 am

nuclearcobra wrote:
Barney wrote:
nuclearcobra wrote:Well next time i do spray i will try purging it through the motor after i purge it in the air Very Happy what the heck it makes since to me it can only hit that much harder Twisted Evil And depending on how the atmosphere is that day or night will have everything to do with how big and white the plume is,my purge line is pointed straight up in front of the windshield not at it and depending on the air outside its sometimes hard to see and other times its outragous like your purging a whole bottle empty. And Barney purging in the air isnt just for pressure its also to clean the line from the bottle to the solenoids as well.
Really.
Yeah really
Thought thats what nitrous filters were for. Ive been wrong all this time. Maybe my stuff will run 7s now.

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Re: purging out

Post  nuclearcobra on July 8th 2011, 6:35 am

Darn i stand corrected you are right nitrous filters keep it from turning to crap from the bottle to the solenoids Rolling Eyes

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Re: purging out

Post  whatbumper on July 8th 2011, 3:30 pm

Here is what we tell our nitrous guys and they win a lot.

Use a good water bath nitrous bottle heater, run around that 900 psi number (be consistent pass to pass), don't fill your bottle full (SJ and Monte Smith have both posted this before), blip the purge a couple of times very quickly, and then line up and kick some ass.

We use to start the pass at 900psi and cross the line at 880-890psi. purging through the motor stuff for most guys is for show or they watched a big dog do it and now they think that is the secret speed secret or something. our purge valve is screwed directly to the nitrous solenoid so that purging through the motor doesn't help.

want it to hit harder use a delay on the fuel side and use the gear retards in your ignitions.

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Re: purging out

Post  Induction-Solutions on July 12th 2011, 9:15 am

Good stuff guys.. Pretty much every Pro Mod I have every seen (including 2 of my own) has had external purge systems on them. You need these to set adjust bottle pressure to desired pressure before the run !! If you set in the lanes to long on one of these 100+ degree days and the bottle pressure gets away from you a little you'd have your engine shot trying to motor purger down 50 or 100 PSI. Wink

Also in the hot summer heat and under the hood temp can get very high. This will sometimes cause the normal solenoid to NOT open. This again is where the smaller purge solenoid is needed. The smaller orifice in these solenoids give them a higher opening PSI rate..

As for purging into the engine, I feel this is a preference. I have guys that do it, and guys that don't. And have gone fast both ways !!!

As for filters, we put filtered fitting at the inlets of ALL of our nitrous and fuel solenoids. Not using filters cause more headaches then you can imagine.

just my two cents... SJ

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