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Cast Iron Welding

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Post  ROAD RAGE June 27th 2012, 1:12 pm

Getting ready to put cast iron Exh on the truck, But wanting to port to the SCJ size.
What would be the best way to weld the extra thickness to the top, Nickle rod????
Any ideas?
Thanks Ed.............
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Post  dfree383 June 27th 2012, 1:21 pm

Spray weld
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Post  ROAD RAGE June 27th 2012, 4:01 pm

More info please,,,,
Whats the process???
Thanks..............
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Post  IDT-572 June 27th 2012, 4:38 pm

It looks like a normal acetylene torch set but the tip is straight out instead of at a 90 * and it has a hopper on top to introduce what ever type material you chose to weld with nickel, bronze, cast, ect into the flame vi the air stream.

you heat your work piece to a dull red glow and then slowly add the particles into the air stream. it would be good to test on something before trying this. it's an art...........
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Post  ROAD RAGE June 27th 2012, 8:02 pm

Thats a little over my head,,,lol...

Could a nickel rod be used??
Just trying to build it up about 1/4 to 3/8'' Just not sure if the cast will stand it. Hate to screw up the only set I have.
Has anybody (arc welded) on the 460 cast Ex manifold?
Thanks.
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Post  pipedobber June 27th 2012, 8:13 pm

Some may call bs, but I have had the best luck welding cast iron with plain ol' 7018, with a dc welder. For some reason it seems to hold better for me than the nickel rod and I would think it would be easier to work with for what you are wanting to do.

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Post  schmitty June 27th 2012, 9:29 pm

If they are old and rusty, first clean them up in a sand blaster or flapper wheel on an angle grinder. Then you will have to heat them up with a rose bud torch tip and take a copper wire and drag it around on the area you want to weld, or nothing will stick to them. Nickel is the wrong thing to use in this application, either do as pipedobber said and weld them with plain ole 7018, or flux core wire weld them. If you have the skills, bronze them up, as this would be easiest and accomplishes two things at once, the heating of the cast to temp and the addition of material. If you have a sand pile, bury them in sand after you are done adding the metal to them as this will slow down the cooling process, and leave them in it over night. Cool
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Post  rmcomprandy June 27th 2012, 10:22 pm

When the OEM factory welds cast iron for an "on line" repair they use 90/10 helium /argon and TIG it with silicon bronze as a filler.
I don't know if it can be used to add additional material though.

I have done a few engines with aluminum SCJ heads for street rod type cars using regular size exhaust manifolds and have raised the exhaust bolt pattern on the head .150" to raise the exhaust manifold. Then some cast iron can be removed from all the way around the ports. It doesn't quite get as large as CJ dimensions however, it is close.

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Post  ROAD RAGE June 27th 2012, 10:36 pm

Thanks Guys,
Ya, I have welded quite a bit at the plant, wire/stick,,,,,,Alot of old iron,,, dust & rust w/ the 7018, (my fav-rod).... But never thought about using it on cast, Was going to braze them but wasn't to sure how that would hold up. I was going to bolt them to an old head, than try to build the area up around the port (out side) before I started grinding the port larger, I'll give it a go, I do have some flux wire for the mig,,,, Do you think that will be better than the 7018????
Thanks Again............

Randy,
I also was going to lower the bolt holes (on the manifold) a tat, to gain a little more at top. Thanks......
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Post  schmitty June 28th 2012, 1:51 pm

If you have the skills to braze it, that is the best bet, and it will hold up to what ever you dish out. Cool
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Post  Doug Rahn June 28th 2012, 5:58 pm

schmitty wrote:If you have the skills to braze it, that is the best bet, and it will hold up to what ever you dish out. Cool

X2 that. If it will hold up on the inside of the exhaust like these, it should work on the outside too.

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