hp question

Hey new here and I am building my first street/strip big block and I have ask question at the other 460ford site and I seamed to get a few different answers base on what I have asked and what other new members have asked based on builds similar to mine and I know there are some of those members here so hope I have not offended anybody  so I want to try some different opinions on this site I am boring the block 60 over and I have a complete rotating assembly with a scat crank and flat top pistons by probe my compression ratio is around 10.64 and I am running d3 heads that I have ported   a 950 cfm carb and cam specs are ----intake timing  duration 284-- .578 lift on valve and .340 on cam lift and on the exhaust valve lift .573 and cam lift is .337 duration 292  lobe center 109 was I have double roller timing, msd ignition,  with ignition box, electric fan 4000cfm, mechanical water pump, electric fuel pump, headers, 1.73 roller rocker arms, hope I did not forget anything.  I have got anywhere from 475 to 550 and I have seen other build on the other site with similar to mine and those guys are getting 600 plus hp am I missing something here?????

what is the maximum hp I can achieve with this set up if running

Just because you ported the D3 heads, doesn't mean that they are flowing really good. Have you actually flow tested your heads? Got any valid numbers? To me your shortblock sounds okay.

Charlie

I bought the rotating assembly from Lem and I have plans to go with the trick flow heads and I was going to have lem send them to you for more porting I am just getting low on money and been trying to contemplate if I should use the D3s I already spent 700 dollars on maybe use the d3s until next summer and then swap them out with the trick flows just trying to see what the d3s would do for now, Charlie can you send me info for my machinist on what to do with the d3s so I can get the best flow out of them,,,,Napa originally did the valve job and removed to exhaust bump but I am getting ready to drop off the block to my new machinist and I thought maybe he could tweek the d3s for now..

What are your thoughts on this????

c.evans wrote:Just because you ported the D3 heads, doesn't mean that they are flowing really good. Have you actually flow tested your heads?  Got any valid numbers? To me your shortblock sounds okay.

Charlie

fordmanmatt wrote:I bought the rotating assembly from Lem and I have plans to go with the trick flow heads and I was going to have lem send them to you for more porting I am just getting low on money and been trying to contemplate if I should use the D3s I already spent 700 dollars on maybe use the d3s until next summer and then swap them out with the trick flows just trying to see what the d3s would do for now, Charlie can you send me info for my machinist on what to do with the d3s so I can get the best flow out of them,,,,Napa originally did the valve job and removed to exhaust bump but I am getting ready to drop off the block to my new machinist and I thought maybe he could tweek the d3s for now..

What are your thoughts on this????

c.evans wrote:Just because you ported the D3 heads, doesn't mean that they are flowing really good. Have you actually flow tested your heads?  Got any valid numbers? To me your shortblock sounds okay.

Charlie

I understand. I'm glad Lem called me last night and he told me about your engine.
Like I said the shortblock combo is good to go, although maybe a question about your camshaft. Run the D3 heads this year and switch to the TFS Street heads next year. Therefore being wise with your money, one would not want to sink too much money in the D3 heads.
The main thing you can do for now, with the D3 heads is concentrate on a good multi-angle competition valve job with 45* seats, and then a good bowl blend. In terms of porting, the further away from the valve seat (physical distance) our work is, the less effective it is. Have your machinist do a 30* backcut on the intake valve, about .080" wide, do the bowl blend and don't have any sharp edges or angles on the short side radius of either the intake or exhaust.

Hope this helps,
Charlie

Your cam specs appear to be for advertised duration numbers, not duration at .050".  It has been my experience that you can generally knock about 45* to 50* off those advertised numbers in order to come up with duration at .050". Thus the 284* on the intake becomes 234*-240*. The 292* on the exhaust becomes 242*-248*.
 
Charlie

Go back to the other website and check out the "Mad Porter" he has a lot of info on his website about cast iron heads.

Couldn't find a post saying what rotating assembly you went with so would you share with the rest of the class.

bigblok2000ranger wrote:Couldn't find a post saying what rotating assembly you went with so would you share with the rest of the class.

In the middle of the first post he says; a complete rotating assembly with Scat crankshaft, Probe pistons. 10.6 to 1 compression, etc..

Charlie

Stroke????

Thanks Charlie

c.evans wrote:Your cam specs appear to be for advertised duration numbers, not duration at .050".  It has been my experience that you can generally knock about 45* to 50* off those advertised numbers in order to come up with duration at .050". Thus the 284* on the intake becomes 234*-240*. The 292* on the exhaust becomes 242*-248*.
 
Charlie

Carlie what head gasket should I use for the d3s????

c.evans wrote:

fordmanmatt wrote:I bought the rotating assembly from Lem and I have plans to go with the trick flow heads and I was going to have lem send them to you for more porting I am just getting low on money and been trying to contemplate if I should use the D3s I already spent 700 dollars on maybe use the d3s until next summer and then swap them out with the trick flows just trying to see what the d3s would do for now, Charlie can you send me info for my machinist on what to do with the d3s so I can get the best flow out of them,,,,Napa originally did the valve job and removed to exhaust bump but I am getting ready to drop off the block to my new machinist and I thought maybe he could tweek the d3s for now..

What are your thoughts on this????

c.evans wrote:Just because you ported the D3 heads, doesn't mean that they are flowing really good. Have you actually flow tested your heads?  Got any valid numbers? To me your shortblock sounds okay.

Charlie

I understand.  I'm glad Lem called me last night and he told me about your engine.
Like I said the shortblock combo is good to go, although maybe a question about your camshaft. Run the D3 heads this year and switch to the TFS Street heads next year. Therefore being wise with your money, one would not want to sink too much money in the D3 heads.
The main thing you can do for now, with the D3 heads is concentrate on a good multi-angle competition valve job with 45* seats, and then a good bowl blend.  In terms of porting, the further away from the valve seat (physical distance) our work is, the less effective it is. Have your machinist do a 30* backcut on the intake valve, about .080" wide, do the bowl blend and don't have any sharp edges or angles on the short side radius of either the intake or exhaust.

Hope this helps,
Charlie

FRPP M-6051-A441 or fel-pro 1018 .