If it was easy, everyone would do it...

I got my son to hang out in the garage for a while and do some engine building... This is what we ran into and how we fixed it.. Still more to learn for sure..

OEM 351 C block

Scat after market stroker crank shaft

Bronze Cam Plate

Cloyes indexed timing set

Inovator West Dampener #206


Here we go... I install the Cloyes timing set and find the crank gear is not lined up with the cam gear... I searched online and found that Scat makes a spacer for the Cleveland. Part Number 4-CLEV-SPACER. It says on the bag that it is similar to M-19009-A341C.. I ordered that and installed the spacer behind the crank gear. I put a straight edge on it and find it lines up perfectly...

Install the time timing cover and take out dampener and install that. Grab my ARP Bolt 154-2501... Bolt is way to short... Hmmm

Dampener is 1 inch away from the timing cover..

I measured from the inside of the damper to the face of the crank snout and it measures .630..... This is the amount of the dampener that is not engaged on the crank snout.  

This has been a real learning experience for me. Looks like the crank manufactures do not cast in material for a cleveland only crank.. Thus the spacer....

Anyone run into these problems before?

I measured for pulleys and looks like the bolt face of pump to bolt face of dampener is 3.290...


Thanks Fellas...

I took another look at things and found the ARP washer to be too large of diameter.

ARP washer diameter is 1.965

Inside of dampener is 1.790

I think they make a special diameter washer for their dampener. I will update tomorrow.


I am sure you guys have run into stuff like this but I will post my story as it evolves so it saves someone else some headaches.


PS: My son has been walking past the old Maverick in the back yard for years. Time is coming to take down the fence and finish it for him..

Randy, that's what I told my son after we put the bag over it.. Haa

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think SCAT makes that crank that is setup to drop into a Windsor block (with Cleveland mains), and if you put it in a Cleveland block, you need to use the crank gear spacer. Few aftermarket companies make the Cleveland specific crank with the extra spacer machined into the crank because then you would have to cut that part down to fit in a Windsor block. But if using the Windsor type crank in a Cleveland block, you simply just add the spacer.

Yes, You have to add a spacer behind the crank gear. I will add the measurement if I can find it...

Ordered the washer from Innovators West... Should have ordered thru Lem.. They have a funky way of accepting payment.. GO THRU LEM...

Part number for small block ford is #956 O.D. of washer is 1.637 - Thickness is .352 - I.D. is .631
They do machine a small register in the washer that is .025 high..

Mindless useless information for most.

We keep rolling on the Cleveland.

Well I fucked that up Trying to pull off the MSD gear and replace with a bronze unit.... Buying a press to do this shit or sending to MSD to take care of it..
Timing suggestions?
408C
12-1 Compression
Iron Heads
105 lobe center cam
Stick car...

I don't want to lock out the timing, as this will be driven for a burger once in a while. Can anyone get me close to where I need to be? More initial will allow me to reduce idle rpm and still run good? Lots to learn here.

Thanks

With 12:1 compression, what will you be using for fuel?

Sunco 110 should work and I think I can get that fairly close to where I live.

The engine is going into 3200 lb car and should make power from 3500 to 7500. I don't see a reason to have the timing all in at 2000 rpm. . I have read that if the initial timing is set around 20 to 24 degrees, you can turn the idle down and cover up the transfer slot in the carb. Maybe have the timing all in just before the power band?

I like to fiddle with stuff like this so it will be fun..