4x4 drag truck 4 link

Wow them are some wide open rules there now. I can see a couple places where one could rule the roost for sure for maybe a year before they either changed the rules or everyone got on the same page. Is this a bog style race, or is it side by side fast track?

schmitty wrote:Wow them are some wide open rules there now. I can see a couple places where one could rule the roost for sure for maybe a year before they either changed the rules or everyone got on the same page. Is this a bog style race, or is it side by side fast track?

Side by side fast track. And yes, they're pretty wide open rules. Also, the main reason why I'm looking at doing the suspension first, instead of putting that money into the engine, is because I already feel confident in my abilities to build the suspension. Just was un-sure what values to be shooting for. I'm still reading up on engine building (never built anything other than a small block chevy). Trying to decide how to go about building up my 460.


Here is some old in progress pics of the 3-link going under the front of my rock crawler.

are you serious about those jack stands

Rules are pretty wide open on the chassis side. Still wouldn't 4-link it. I'd spend that money on a new lift or jackstands or something.

no offense guys, but i was seeking an answer to a simple question. wasnt looking for whether or not i should do it, or whether or not i should buy a 2 post lift. truck is getting a 4 link, and the way it looks, i'll just have to play around with different antisquat values and figure it out myself. all i was seeking was a good starting point for dialing it in.

you are not going to get very far on this site being an a-hole.

There are some top notch mud drag guys on here who are eager to help and make the most of your money if you'd kindly help them help you. We also dont want to see your face smashed in when a jack stand falls.

With your build Id also be against a 4link. Karl Jetts (kjett) ladder bar/slider on a main leaf/coilover setup is pretty slick and works really well on a 700hp iron head 466. If class allowed Id be doing the exact same on mine. Im not sure if he has a build on here or not.


EDIT: heres a pic he posted of his setup.

Just saw this, whrere are you located? I might have to make a trip down to run with my little iron headed 466. I can "make it" pull the needed vacuum to get into the class rules


It's your truck, and your money. I can tell you my mono-leaf with sliders, ladderbars, and coilovers work REALLY well! Well enough that I can carry the front of the truck with no problems! To show you what a well tuned setup like mine can do:

https://s1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb331/old_blue1/?action=view&current=Karl9-10-11.mp4

im really confused ...do you want to drag race(mud/dirt) or rock crawl ???? two different suspension setups .....correct ???

Bruno,

You are correct in being 2 totally different setups. My mud drag truck is set up more like and asphalt drag truck vs. the days of the extreme jacked up to the sky 4x4's of the 80's. Rock crawling reauires tons of suspension travel, where mud drags need maybe 12" at most. My front barely has 12" of travel and most of that is downward.

4 link suspensions work on mud trucks, rock buggies, drag cars all the same. The difference is the setup - mud trucks and drag cars are actually very similar.

What hes essentially wanting to do is go full nuts crazy with the suspension while keeping the rest of the truck stock or basically as is with a 474 or less ci engine. Kinda like C heads on a junk yard block


EDIT: how can your fat fingers type faster than me?

IcallhimGeorge wrote:EDIT: how can your fat fingers type faster than me?

Cuz my fat fingers work really good, just ask Lauren

gijoe4500 wrote:no offense guys, but i was seeking an answer to a simple question. wasnt looking for whether or not i should do it, or whether or not i should buy a 2 post lift. truck is getting a 4 link, and the way it looks, i'll just have to play around with different antisquat values and figure it out myself. all i was seeking was a good starting point for dialing it in.

Not such a simple question. The proper set up and design of a 4 link is very much trial and error, with some guidelines that may get you close. If you are dead set on a 4 link as it seems you are, then by all means go for it. I am of the opinion that you would be better served saving that money and putting it in other places that will make you much faster. Even though the old addage of "You have to hook it to book it" applies, you have to have the power to apply first and foremost. A decent set of double adjustable coilovers with enough travel for an offroad application are over $350 a piece, let alone a good set of C/M bars and proper rod ends and brackets. For that amount, you could have a great set of heads done up properly and that is worth a lot of power to use on the track.

I've been contemplating trying out a 4-link set-up as well, but sort of temporarily. I think it would be a pile of fun to try different instant center positions and determine what % antisquat works in different situations. Then use this info to fabricate a set of ladder bars to mimic the best set-up and fit my rules!

Basically the situation that mud dragsters are trying to run in is one with very limited traction...(obviously)

Can anybody who has palyed with a 4-link or ladder bar set-up give some insight into what you would do to get a better launch? (get more traction; slow the instant spinning off the line) Do you want to move the instant center up above the neutral line? below? etc? adjust the length of the bars?

Oh and to the OP have you made any progress yet? If so pics would be cool, and could you also include a few more pics of your three link up front? Do you have any adjustment built in to it?

Jon