Wide 5 wheels

Who, besides Real, make aluminum lightweight wheels? I need some for my 35X10.5X16 boggers. What width wheel works well with them? Any durability problems with these wheels on a race truck? Are carbon fiber a lot more money?

1- Sherwood, Bart and Weld also make wide 5s

2- Id want to go with 6-7" rims to keep the tires skinny but the best I remember 8" is the narrowest wide 5 available unless you go custom. 8" would work fine though.

3- Lots of high horsepower trucks running wide 5s and I have seen any of them have issues. Are you straight line drags or hill and hole? Its "possible" you could have trouble on a hard landing but I havent seen that first hand.

4- Carbon fiber is quite a bit more money.

I'll be running a straight race pit, and some top of the ground stuff. The 16" wheel seems to be a curve for some builders. I didn't see them on any of the sites above, except Real. The others probably have them on special order.

And I agree 6" or 7" would work nice. Real has them either way. I'm leaning towards 6". Although I doubt it would make much difference. In a race pit is it ideal to have the front tires exactly in front of the rear tires?

Kind of a yes and no.

Ideally your front tires are on top of the mud and not really making a rut but you dont want your rear tires making their own path...if that makes sense. 10.5" front tires should fall somewhere along the same width (outside to outside) as the usually wider rear tires. I dont think it matters if its flush to the outside, flush to the inside (most common) or somewhere in the middle.

I'm thinking that you won't lose much weight with the wide 5's over standard aluminum wheels. Maybe a couple of pounds each at the most, and the standard wheels are a whole lot cheaper, and easier to do, plus you can get the 7" wide rims that are probably going to be a better choice.

Real has wheels from 4" to atleast 18", but more importantly they have several different backspaces available. I want to keep the tire away from the header. Just some quick looking shows a 15x8 steel at 30lbs, 15x8 aluminum at 17lbs, and a 15x8 wide 5 at 7lbs. plus about 4.75lbs. for the adapter. So really only saving about 5lbs, but every little bit helps. No way around it though the are about 400 more a set. It may not be worth it.

A couple years ago I weighed 15x8 aluminum outlaw 2 wheels and 15x8 steel spoke wheels both with no tires the aluminum wheel was 1 lb lighter and if my memory is correct they were 18 and 19 pounds respectively. When researching the wide 5s I read where several people were having issues warping wheels in rough pits and that was the reason I never went to them.

Every bit you can cut in tire and wheel weight is worth it IMO, unsprung weight is critical in going fast. I've picked up 2 to 3/10's+ in the 1/4 by getting rid of factory wheels for Welds on street cars.

I agree that you should reduce the unsprung weight as much as possible but if you have to buy a new set of wheels every year or twice a year then going faster isnt worth it because you spent more on wheels than your gonna win! there are other ways to reduce weight without giving up durability

You already have more in your truck than your ever going to win....... Comes down to going fast or not !!!

Ok with an unlimited budget such as yours Dave spend $1450 on a set of 15x8 beadlock wheels with aluminum wide 5 adapters to save 17.2 pounds on a truck or go the cheaper way and spend $872 on 15x8 non-beadlock wheels and steel wide 5 adapters and save 8 pounds. Yes we spend way more on our toys than we will ever get back but $1450 can be better spent on engine or transmission parts to go faster!!!!! Prices were found on racing in the dirts website along with their wheel weights compared to what I measured on good old american racing outlaw II wheels.

Speaking of beadlocks, At what point are they a must? I'm going to be between 700-800 hp with a 3800lb ladder bar truck. I "think" we are going to have it hooking nicely

You guys worry too much, no problem with my WIDE 5's, 5000lb truck 3-4 second passes in some really rough schit

Bead lock the rear if you are running tire pressure below 6psi, and dont' worry about the front, you will need to run some decent tire pressure there, like 15psi or more.

I ended up cheaping out. Picked up some 16x7 outlaw II style wheels. Just couldn't shake the other grand from the tree. I'm giving up 6 or 7 pounds at each corner.

You will be fine with the Outlaws. I'm running a set on the front of mine and they work just as good.

I think you will be just fine on the outlaw II wheels thats what i had on my truck for the past 5 or so years before I sold everything.