Bottom end build problems and questions?

I am try to clarify some issues I have on my build.......

A 2y crank will not fit a d9te-ab block without notching the block right? How would it be clearenced just check with the crank in the block and notch where it is needed?

I bought a 460 out of a 76 thunderbird, It had the d3 heads and a d1ve block, well the crank has no casting numbers on it. I can't tell if it is a 2y or a 3y crank, I am figuring a 2y because between the block and the dooe rods it came with.

Hey, Bullit:
If it is indeed a D1VE block, it's internally balanced and should be a 2Y crank. I've installed a 2Y crank in a D9TE block, and yes there's plenty of clearancing to do in the roof of the crank case - but it's easy enough as long as you take your time and check frequently, and thoroughly. There may also be an issue with the oil deflector flange on the 2Y crank, as there is no relief cut in the D9TE block or rear main cap to accomodate it. I carefully created said relief in the block and rear main cap - although I've been told (afterwards) that it would have been easier, and acceptable to have a machine shop remove the deflector. I hope my response is helpful to you.

Wayne (SAWDOFF) Pearce

Thanks for the reply, I am sorry I left out the internal balance thing, yes it is internal balance, I guess if I got to start cutting the roof I will be better to just get a stroker crank. I am going to buy rods but I guess if I paid someone to do it, it would be cheaper to buy another nodular cank and I don't need to hack the block. Well with that said as far as a 4.14 or a 4.15 which is better as far as choices? I don't want to machine the d1ve block because the d9 has so much block prep in it [ decked, bored and ect. ]. I should say F^@K it and go 4.3 or 4.5 but I know my iron heads can only flow so much with a hydralic cam. Maybe I need to go back to the drawing board. I want a budget build for now and I need to see what is the best option for me. I bet the 545 setup would be killer on the street....

If you had a choice between a cast steel or a nodular crank which one would it be and why. And how hard is it to convert a ext balance crank to a internal or is it best to find a internal crank? Thanks

Bullit:
If you wanted to put a stroker in your D1VE block, there's NO "hacking" required! I just finished building a 545 stroker (5/8" stroker with a .030 over bore) in a D0VE block, and it required no grinding for clearance! As far as converting an external balance crank to internal balance - all that's required is a rebalancing. I don't believe you would need to clearance a D9TE block for a stroker either, if you utilized a stroker specific to that block (if I'm wrong here - someone chime in).

Wayne (SAWDOFF) Pearce

Yea I know about the stroker cranks fitting but it looks like it is cheaper to buy another crank than to have the machine shop cut my fresh d9 block. Like I said I gots to buy rods so I could do a stroker crank why I am at it. I am trying to decide what is better a cast steel or a nodular crank. Which would be stronger?

Hey, Bullit: Just two words ---- Scat forged! With that said - yeah, it's more money - but money WELL spent!

Wayne (SAWDOFF) Pearce