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Post  138n on January 18th 2014, 12:27 pm

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Last edited by 138n on May 13th 2014, 3:13 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Post  bbf-falcon on January 18th 2014, 12:32 pm

I had my Machinist take .050 from the side of caps. Or you can buy a pan that's for block.

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Post  Wheelie58 on January 18th 2014, 1:29 pm

I have experienced an older block and pan combo where the caps had to be machined and the pan also modified. If you are having a custom pan made, the fabricator can add clearance during the build.
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Post  Lem Evans on January 18th 2014, 1:51 pm

The A460 blocks from the past several years have different machining at the cap ends than the older blocks. They require little to no mods. depending on how the pan is built
 
If you 'love' on the caps be sure to only work the portion that is above the pan rail.

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Post  Wheelie58 on January 18th 2014, 2:35 pm

Lem Evans wrote:The A460 blocks from the past several years have different machining at the cap ends than the older blocks. They require little to no mods. depending on how the pan is built
 
If you 'love' on the caps be sure to only work the portion that is above the pan rail.
Yeah Lem...
That block was so old, it should be in a museum, and still lives at 4.625". Shows how tough those things are.
Good tip on not milling the outer registers off...
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Post  cool40 on January 18th 2014, 8:37 pm

Today i ran in to this. I fit the pan on the car, eliminator block, then decided to use the block on the engine stand for setting up the pump mount.its a FMS and to my surprise it hit the caps.lol
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