D3VE head porting ?

Building a 466 with stock rods and crank, it has been balanced with flat top pistons and one valve relief.
Going to be installed in a 72 ford pickup. This will be a street cruiser with hyd roller cam, long tube headers , 850 quick fuel Edelbrock dual plane intake PTC converter in the 2500 to 3500 range 3:70 rear gear and c6 transmission. Looking to get 9.5:1 compression ?

My question is will it help any to port these heads for this combo ?
If so what areas do I need to look at when I port them?

What cam would you guys spec for this engine ?




Thanks Whitefield

Porting the D3's will help. If you I have the time and can do it yourself.
The exhaust will need the most work but some short turn radius porting on the intake side will help.
Follow the instructions on Scotty's website and you'll be good.

A custom cam is a popular choice and several people here can help.

Are you using factory rockers?

X2 on Scotty's web site all the info you'll need for porting them. I would also dump the Hydraulic roller cam for this mild of a build. Save the money and put it to use somewhere else. If you don't want a hydraulic lifter cam, just use a solid lifter cam. Randy or Lem can help with the cam as well as others on here. Good luck.

Don't need to waste the money in that site, just follow basic porting rules.

Majority of the gains will be with in 3/4-1" of the seat and a high quality valves job is essential.... No NAPA lawn mower valve jobs....

dfree383 wrote:Don't need to waste the money in that site, just follow basic porting rules.

Majority of the gains will be with in 3/4-1" of the seat and a high quality valves job is essential.... No NAPA lawn mower valve jobs....

Thanks Dave , is there anything else I need to know or you would recommend for this build ?

Which intake would be Better the stealth ,the performer or performer Rpm ?

MBBFord wrote:Porting the D3's will help. If you I have the time and can do it yourself.
The exhaust will need the most work but some short turn radius porting on the intake side will help.
Follow the instructions on Scotty's website and you'll be good.

A custom cam is a popular choice and several people here can help.

Are you using factory rockers?

jeffgfg wrote:X2 on Scotty's web site all the info you'll need for porting them. I would also dump the Hydraulic roller cam for this mild of a build. Save the money and put it to use somewhere else. If you don't want a hydraulic lifter cam, just use a solid lifter cam. Randy or Lem can help with the cam as well as others on here. Good luck.

Thanks Guy's I did check it out . Hyd roller is what we have decided to go with.

Spend majority of your time on the exhaust. Of course un-shroud the valves and as Dave said work the bowl and short side radius. I really liked the Regular performer but don't open the intake manifold, as it helps keep airflow up and helps with revision. The setup respond positive to a 2" 4 hole spacer and 750 dp holley.

I managed to get 1.80 60ft & 8.0 1/8th mile at 80-79 mph with a 3.55 gear, 29" tall tire, 2,200 stall converter with 1-3/4" headers out of my 1979 F150, extended cab, two wheel drive. Everyone that took a pass with me could have swore that truck had the hardest hit off the line they had ever felt. But then it just rode on down the 1/8 mile. Truck weighed 4,800lbs

IMO the RPM is the best intake for a street ride.

dfree383 wrote:IMO the RPM is the best intake for a street ride.

That would sound right, as my engine was bone stock except for those upgrades I mentioned.

Just did a set of iron heads that went 337 @ .600 and 284 @ .400. Get all your flow under the valve seat and stay off the short side and concentrate on the valve job. This was with a 2.190 valve.