Is there anymore left in my 60ft?

I don't know if a picture of the side wall would help alot, but a picture of rear patch from the back on fresh clean concrete could be of use, for advice. The side video of the launch helps because it could be played over, and even in slow motion, and you can see exactly whats going, and compare to the other video, with your different combinations, and compared to timeslips of each pass. I knew one guy that even took the rear arm off of a DoublePumper Holley, because he said it slowed down his 60FT times. Most people just play with pump cams and shooters though.

85bigblockfox wrote:

cool40 wrote:Drop the gear if it'll stand it. What's it rpm in high gear?

I could probably go to a 4.10 gear but how would that affect the converter? I had a ati and it was to tight. It would only flash to 3k and 60' was in the 1.73 range with 3.70 gear. Put a 4.22 gear in it and the 60' stayed the same and converter still only went to 3k. Then Jon hooked me up with Lenny and he built a converter for the car. Put the 3.70 gear back in it and now it flashes 4800-5000 rpm and 60' in the 1.57 range. But I am wondering if that's the best the car will do in the 60' or is there more in it? The tire I have on the car is MT 275 pro.

what rpm does it turn in high gear? If it tops out early a 4.10 will hurt et.

IMO if you're thinking about changing strut valving why buy another non adjustable strut with fixed valving (like going from 70/30 to 90/10) when you could instead get a strut with adjustable valving (like the Strange stuff)? Adjustability is good, more adjustability is more gooder.

If the current combo is in fact dead hooked during the launch (with no usable wheel-speed, or excess spin, and no engine bog), a front strut with looser extension valving might actually hurt the 60ft by spending more time lifting the nose vs going forward. But if it's actually spinning a bunch (beyond "normal" usable wheel-speed) during the launch strut extension valving adjusted looser might help the 60ft.  

If it was my car (and it was dead hooking) before making any suspension adjustments, or gear changes, or strut changes I would first go to the track on a TnT night to find out just how much air pressure it took (both high & low) before it flat-out spun it's nuts off with the current combo.  If changing the air pressure makes it go from dead hooked to having a little usable wheel-speed, and if that that in turn does help the 60ft, then it might need a stiffer front strut to help it create some wheel-speed, or maybe a little more rear gear.

Thanks for the help guys. If I remember right I wanna say it crosses the stripe at 5800. I shift it at 7k in first and second.

Sure sounds like it could use a lower gear. Have you ever tried to drop your shift points, to say 6700-6800 or so, and compare times?

supervel45 wrote:Sure sounds like it could use a lower gear. Have you ever tried to drop your shift points, to say 6700-6800 or so, and compare times?

I have but Im thinking it would run bottom 11s. When the weather clears Im going to try it again with whats been suggested. Tire pressure, lower shifts etc and see what it does

Thats the only way to find out and what makes it fun. I let a friend make a pass in my car one time and he shifted at 6,500-6,700 or so, from 7,000 RPM that I was at, and picked up over 2 tent's in the quarter, is why I metioned it. At 7K the motor still seemed strong, but the car just wanted a litte lower shift point for a better ET. If you ever plan to spray your car, I would not go with the lower gears, as you will more than likey be going to 3.50's or higher then. A 150 Shot would get that 5,800 RPM up, and if it hooked deffinetly lower the 60 FT times.