My 1994 F150 AWD project!

Come to find out the truck wasn't a mass air unit but a speed density! I know I didn't see a mass air meter but some folks was swearing I just didn't know what I was looking for!

A little bit of progress. Pressure washed the engine compartment and gave it a quick coat of epoxy black paint. It's time to start prepping for the drop! I'll buff the firewall paint and give it a couple of coats of synthetic wax.

Looks nice

Lem Evans wrote:Looks nice

It's getting there, I just don't have much time to work on it! Fingers crossed I will at least get a test fit this weekend. Interested to see if the headers fit and what will have to be done.

Next on the list:
Drop the rear gas tank and have it sumped.
Get driveshaft lengths.
"Fingers crossed" check the transmission cross member.
Decide if I want to run AC (check clearance issues)
Accessory brackets.
Finish cleaning the underside and paint the rest of the frame rails.
Install electric fuel pump and run lines.
Wire ignition
Plumb the transmission cooler
Wire electric fans
Add gauges
Work on suspension
Replace a steering wear items
Check, clean or replace brake system.

Todays new picture. Time to start trimming on some metal, I hope I won't have to change oil pans I think I'll be fine.

I don't understand how I can buy a engine swap kit for a BBF/c6 and it not come with a way to make the trans cross member work. I knew I would have to get new driveshafts made.

The headers Fit!! Things are starting to come together! I have to relocate the parking cable and might have to change the steering shaft to a smaller diameter.

Next item up. I have to find a transmission crossmember that will work and order two drive shafts.

Looks real nice. What motor mounts are you using

Bart Knox wrote:Looks real nice. What motor mounts are you using

The ones I am currently using is a set of rubber mounts from L&L Products. I might go to solid mounts to gain a 1/16 of an inch in engine height. Just depends on how much height I lose when I tighten the rubber mounts down.

The headers are MadDog 2-1/4" primaries with 4" collector.

Josh,

Can you make a tubular cross member? Looks like you have lots of room to work with.

I could if I could come up with a good design.

Real progress8) ...looking good, you found the motivation. Simple on the cross-member, strong, and functional not fancy tubing is both, adjust-ability never hurts either.

FalconEh wrote:Real progress8) ...looking good, you found the motivation. Simple on the cross-member, strong, and functional not fancy tubing is both, adjust-ability never hurts either.

Only get to work on it Friday nights a Saturday evenings but it's better than it just sitting there.

(Thought; I wonder if there is a company that makes laser or water jet transmission mount bracket?) Once I get the transmission cross member done I can get driveshafts made.

I still have to decide on acc brackets. After thinking about it, I'm not going to use factory serp brackets, they are just too ugly IMO. I found some nice looking brackets on evil bay. Thats if the total price of brackets, pullies and shipping come in under the kits I have found.

PS. I doubt the AC gets used, the headers come way to close to the plastic ac parts, plus it would be impossible to change spark plugs on the rear passenger side.

Check Speedway motors for a bolt in adjustable trans cross member. If i get a chance I'll get a part number for you. They have several I'm not sure which one you'll need.....2 in drop to 8 in drop bolt in or weld in under 70.00. they also have a 53-64 trans cross member not sure how wide it is but again bolts in. pages 232-234 in the catalog. Hope this helps.

I wasn't able to work on the 94 this weekend. I did look at speedway motors and found the cross members you where talking about. I'll either use one of those or re-drill for the factory cross member.

(1984 F150 all purpose truck: I replaced the fuel tank on the 84 F150 and tried to figure why it won't crank over with the ignition key. Positive news is that the fuel gauge works again and  it has a new tank. Bad new's, I never figured out why it wouldn't spin over with the key and the distributor cap ate it's self! There is a crispy hole where the coil wire come into the distributor cab! The spark will jump to the plastic and allow the engine to run! It's crazy looking!)

I have started thinking about differential, wheel and tires. My first though on differential would be to use a Helical locker up front with a spool in the rear. I thought about using a spool in the front axle as there are guys running spools up front and lockers in the rear. (They swear it helps drivability.) Problem with my application is if a axle breaks or a universal joints tights up during a pass it would almost be impossible it steer. (might as well run a eco-cage)

I am waiting for my axle yokes to come in so I can measure for driveshafts and Christmas to come! I will start removing unnecessary shields, lines, insulation and anything that can be cut off that will help lose some weight.

Helical lockers like TruTracks require bias to work correctly. Lot of people don't know how to drive a helical. You drive it with the brake not the gas.

I know it is costly but why not Detroits front and rear? Grizzly makes some different style lockers too.

I assume you are running D60's.

http://completeoffroad.com/c-65145-drivetrain-lockers-and-limited-slips-dana-60lockers-and-limited-slips.html

SandHillsHillbilly wrote:Helical lockers like TruTracks require bias to work correctly. Lot of people don't know how to drive a helical. You drive it with the brake not the gas.

I know it is costly but why not Detroits front and rear? Grizzly makes some different style lockers too.

I assume you are running D60's.

http://completeoffroad.com/c-65145-drivetrain-lockers-and-limited-slips-dana-60lockers-and-limited-slips.html

No, factory Dana 44 IFS and Ford 9". I was thinking something up front that would allow allow a axle to break without throwing it around. I don't think it will ever work right with a solid axle upfront. The IFS will really limit unwanted suspension movement.

If you are worried about axle breakage then go with making something else the weak link like a fuse. 1310 U Joints instead of 1350.

The 1350 yokes for the gear box came in today! They look a lot larger than I was imagining. The output shafts on the gear box is 10 spline X 1.75. I think, the axles are going to be the weak link.

You may want to look at upgrading the front axles to RCV axles.

http://www.rcvperformance.com/

nord315 wrote:You may want to look at upgrading the front axles to RCV axles.

http://www.rcvperformance.com/

I have had my eye on those for some time. They will have to wait till after I get the truck moving on it's own power. I don't want to spend a bunch of money on big ticket items that aren't needed to get it driving. I have a ton of nit pick items I have to order.

Strong looking yoke

D. Sea wrote:Strong looking yoke  

I thought I was getting a SPL30 Spicer yoke but when they came in they where SPL90 series. (SPL30 is suppose the be the new 1350.) The SPL90 is larger than a 1480!! The caps on a 1480 are 1.3 in diameter the 90 cap diameter is 1.6!! A lot larger than I was expecting. These are also strap style instead of u-bolt.


Anyway here is the plan for the drive shafts.
1.) I have to use a 4" dia tube.
2.) If I stick with the 8.8 the largest I can run is a 1350.
3.) the dana 44 I can run a 1410. The 1410 will allow more angularity over a 1350.
4.) Both driveshafts will have a slip and spline built into them.
5.) My only concern is the front driveshaft and clearing the transmission pan. (The headers are fender exit.)

If anyone has a 9" rear axle that is truck length I'd really appreciate a good price! I'll have to buy high quality axles, gears, differential and brakes so I wouldn't be able to afford a lot just for the housing and drop-out. (Anyone know of some where  on the internet that sell factory quality housings or better other than Currie, Strange, Moser, Mark Williams?)


PS. Those are semi truck brake drums that are sitting on top of.

Find a local recycle(junk) yard and get a 9" housing from a 77-79 truck or bronco it will bolt right in.