95 460 EFI rebuild options

Ok guys so I've decided to do a rebuild on my 95 EFI 460 and was wondering about my options for piston type and cam. If I go with flat top pistons and an rv cam what am I going to have to do to my EFI if anything to make them work? Will I even be able to go with flat top pistons? Im a poor college student so what are some good kits to look at that won't break the bank and which cam can I use? Just figure if I'm gonna be doing it I may as well get a little bit of a performance upgrade. I've already got headers and will be putting on a 3" exhaust.

Let me hear you recommendations and experiences! All are welcomed.

mxer0022 wrote:Ok guys so I've decided to do a rebuild on my 95 EFI 460 and was wondering about my options for piston type and cam. If I go with flat top pistons and an rv cam what am I going to have to do to my EFI if anything to make them work? Will I even be able to go with flat top pistons? Im a poor college student so what are some good kits to look at that won't break the bank and which cam can I use? Just figure if I'm gonna be doing it I may as well get a little bit of a performance upgrade. I've already got headers and will be putting on a 3" exhaust.

Let me hear you recommendations and experiences! All are welcomed.

The Speed-Pro H535P flat top pistons are about a real 9/1 compression ratio in a later F.I. Truck engine. Mill the block .025" is all you need there to get a better quench and about 9.4/1 ratio.

A good high performance valve job on the heads

A custom speed density F.I. compatible camshaft.

Port the lower intake manifold runners about 2" in from the flange.

You would probably need to use an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to bump the fuel pressure about 10% is all..

Ok whathanks material exactly am I removing from the intake runners and how much do I remove?

What material*

Is that CR with the stock .040" thick head gasket?

I've had the heads built with a 3 angle valve job and resurfaced. Do I need to subtract the amount they took off the head from the amount taken off the block?

Sorry for all the questions but is the reason you want to mill the block because the h535cp piston sits lower in the cylinder so you mill the block deck to get it to 0?

mxer0022 wrote:Sorry for all the questions but is the reason you want to mill the block because the h535cp piston sits lower in the cylinder so you mill the block deck to get it to 0?

The head gasket is .042" thick and 11.2 cc's; M-6051-A441.

Milling .025" from the deck of the block won't get those pistons to "0" deck but, to about .010" to .015" down the hole on a later block.

Milling the heads does NOT provide the same results as milling the block with the same compression ratio; getting the quench to under .060".

You are removing enough metal from the intake runner to get it close to the same size as the head and take out the obvious restrictions.

Oh yea, when asking questions it is good to tell everyone what you actually have there and ALL of what modifications you have already made.

Sorry about not being specific about what I've got. The truck is completely stock although I believe the horn in the intake tubes have been removed and cheap ass specter filters put on it. That's gonna change.I guess I just failed to mention it because everything is stock except for those two pieces.

What is the difference between a regular cam grind and one that ground specifically for SD EFI?

mxer0022 wrote:What is the difference between a regular cam grind and one that ground specifically for SD EFI?

They're usually advertised as being speed density compatible - since SD isn't self-adjusting like a mass air system, you can't venture too far from stock without doing your own tuning.  A few years back I put together a 466 for my 2WD '89 F-350, using Comp Cams' XE256H-14, along with a little port blending as mentioned above.  That motor towed pretty decent, I just should've put a better muffler on it than the Flowmaster..

Using a 3" exhaust over a 2 1/2" exhaust in this case will cost you torque with no gain in horsepower.

Use 2 1/2" pipe (preferably with mandrel bends), a "H" or "X" pipe, and "thru" mufflers (not chamber mufflers).

This will give you an efficient exhaust system.

Using 2 1/2" exhaust goes against everything I've read. I thought you needed to open up the exhaust to get better performance? Is it a back pressure issue? Are there any dyno numbers to back this up? Now I'm curious.

mxer0022 wrote:Using 2 1/2" exhaust goes against everything I've read. I thought you needed to open up the exhaust to get better performance? Is it a back pressure issue? Are there any dyno numbers to back this up? Now I'm curious.

For the truck I mentioned above, I stuck with the 2 into 1 factory layout, except Flowmaster (should've changed) after the cat (cat had a 3" outlet welded on).  The single 3" made for really good torque/towing performance.  DanE was talking about a dual exhaust setup, which is somewhat over-rated unless your intent is a "hot" truck engine.. And forget the term "back pressure".. "scavenging" is what matters

So this is the cam that comp recommends? Will this still work with my speed density EFI?

Inline image 2Inline image 3

Description
Part Number:
34-239-4
Grind Number:
X4270H

Lifter Type:
Hydraulic Lifter


Specifications Intake Exhaust
RPM Range:
1600 to 5800
Valve Lash:
Hyd.

Hyd.
Valve Timing:
0.006
Duration:
270

278
Lobe Separation:
111°
Duration @ .050" Lift:
226

234
Intake Centerline:
107°
Valve Lift:
0.554

0.574
Lobe Lift:
0.32

0.332
Valve Timing @ 0.006 Lift:
Exhaust
Closes 24
ATDC
Opens 74
BBDC
107Valve Timing Diagram
Intake
28 Opens
BTDC
62 Closes
ABDC

mxer0022 wrote:So this is the cam that comp recommends? Will this still work with my speed density EFI?

Inline image 2Inline image 3

Description
Part Number:
34-239-4
Grind Number:
X4270H

Lifter Type:
Hydraulic Lifter


Specifications Intake Exhaust
RPM Range:
1600 to 5800
Valve Lash:
Hyd.

Hyd.
Valve Timing:
0.006
Duration:
270

278
Lobe Separation:  
111°
Duration @ .050" Lift:
226

234
Intake Centerline:
107°
Valve Lift:
0.554

0.574
Lobe Lift:
0.32

0.332
Valve Timing @ 0.006  Lift:
Exhaust
Closes 24
ATDC
Opens 74
BBDC
107Valve Timing Diagram
Intake
28 Opens
BTDC
62 Closes
ABDC

If a COMP tech actually recommended that camshaft to you, he should be fired.
You're certainly welcome to try it but, it won't work very well with O.E.M "Speed Density" EFI, if at all.
Your heads won't even accept that amount of valve lift without modifications.

If you are stuck with your opinion of using a CompCams then the 34-255-5, (XE256H-14), is a better choice.

I thought so that's why I asked and I'm glad I did. He recommended a different one at first but that's because the website only let me input a max 5000lb vehicle but my truck weighs about 7200. When I told him that he changed it to this one.

I'm not stuck on comp. It was just the first one that came to mind. What would you recommend?

That Comp and the Lunati PN- 06169 "specialty cam" run pretty much overall the same. The Lunati has a bit more on the top and the Comp has slightly more in the mid range.

Personally ... I would prefer something "custom" to compliment exactly what you intend to do with the vehicle.

I thought that's what I was getting by entering in all that information on comps Web page. Come to find out the one he recommended was one of there off the shelf cams.

Did you happen to notice under "rmcomprandy" it says "Custom Cams"???? Just get with Randy and get EXACTLY what you want/need for about the same money for a "off the shelf" cam. Problem solved........

I did notice that and that's what I thought I was getting when I entered in all of my info on their website. I made sure I got everything from tire size to intake runner volume. It wasn't until I found that cam on summit when I realized it wasn't custom.

I'm still fairly new to this forum so you may have to elaborate on who Randy is? I would be more than happy to get with him to get a real custom cam.

mxer0022 wrote:I did notice that and that's what I thought I was getting when I entered in all of my info on their website. I made sure I got everything from tire size to intake runner volume. It wasn't until I found that cam on summit when I realized it wasn't custom.

I'm still fairly new to this forum so you may have to elaborate on who Randy is? I would be more than happy to get with him to get a real custom cam.

I can not do that, but I will give a link to a very small piece of his recent resume...http://www.hotrod.com/events/1510-ford-windsor-takes-2-spot-in-the-spec-small-block-class-at-2015-engine-masters-challenge/

www.rmcompetition.com

Comp Cams wants all that information to figure which catalog camshaft of theirs will be best suited to your combination.
Somewhere you missed the "factory E.F.I." designation to them.

As I said, any TECH who recommended THAT 270 camshaft for a factory E.F.I. truck engine should be fired ... it IS that far off.

Well I'm glad I figured out who you are Randy. I'll be in contact soon.

rmcomprandy wrote:www.rmcompetition.com

Comp Cams wants all that information to figure which catalog camshaft of theirs will be best suited to your combination.
Somewhere you missed the "factory E.F.I." designation to them.

As I said, any TECH who recommended THAT 270 camshaft for a factory E.F.I. truck engine should be fired ... it IS that far off.

Get Randy to design you one you will not be sorry I will be getting with him a gain for one soon for my 69 f100