Glide to bbf crank bushing

This is my first glide to bbf. Should the crank bushing just slip in place or have to be tapped in place?
Thanks

If you're talking about the centering adapter for the torque converter it should slide on both the converter and in the crank smoothly.  I believe I had to sand mine smooth when we put it in earlier this year.  You will want to put a light coat of grease on it also.

Like ^^ he said it should but it usually won't.

I figure it's best to install it in the crank first?

tconnection wrote:I figure it's best to install it in the crank first?

good place to start and also test fit the converter to it and the flex plate to make sure all is well.

Bushing went in the crank pretty easy. Now on to getting it all bolted up.. and get a drive shaft. My motor is basically in the stock location with a glide. Is there a specific length drive shaft I can buy off the sheft? Aluminum.
Thanks

Summit racing has a drive shaft kit with pg yoke. I will see if I can find the link

Found this

https://m.summitracing.com/search/product-line/summit-racing-driveshafts?ibanner

I got the trans bolted up but I don't have no gap nor really a space between the flex plate and the converter. I can turn the converter with some effort to get the bolt holes lined up though. Do I need to drop it back down to have the bushing milled or buy another? Or am I good?
Thanks

Probably easiest thing to do if you're positive it's seated correctly in the pump is to add another block plate between the engine and trans.

If you can't get 1/8" between the converter and flex plate you better figure out why. Be sure the converter is in the pump too. It will self destruct if it doesn't have clearance.

The 1/8 need to be between the converter bolt flange and flex plate? It's a brand new bushing. A buddy told most l

ikely the bushing will have to be machined down an 1/8.
I'm gonna check it all out though. But if the converter isn't seat, would the trans still bolt all the way up to the block?

tconnection wrote:The 1/8 need to be between the converter bolt flange and flex plate? It's a brand new bushing. A buddy told most l

ikely the bushing will have to be machined down an 1/8.
I'm gonna check it all out though. But if the converter isn't seat, would the trans still bolt all the way up to the block?

it probably wouldn't bolt up if it wasn't in the pump. Take the trans down and put your converter in the crank up against the flex plate.if it's going up against the plate completely then you just don't have enough room! Converter height is wrong which is very common for some reason put another spacer plate on like has already been mentioned or get the converter fixed.

cool40 wrote:

tconnection wrote:The 1/8 need to be between the converter bolt flange and flex plate? It's a brand new bushing. A buddy told most l

ikely the bushing will have to be machined down an 1/8.
I'm gonna check it all out though. But if the converter isn't seat, would the trans still bolt all the way up to the block?

it probably wouldn't bolt up if it wasn't in the pump. Take the trans down and put your converter in the crank up against the flex plate.if it's going up against the plate completely then you just don't have enough room! Converter height is wrong which is very common for some reason put another spacer plate on like has already been mentioned or get the converter fixed.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^Do you already have a block plate between the the block and bellhousing?

Yea I have a mid plate installed.

Sounds like you need another 1/8" of space. Running it without clearance between the pump and converter will eat the pump in short order..

Easiest fix is to add another block plate

I got my trans setup to where it easis r to drop it back down and have the end of the bushing machined down a 1/8. Probably best to do the big end?

Is the converter definitely bottoming out on the bushing before the converter touches the flexplate?

And if it is for sure the bushing causing the problem you can just grind it down to get the clearance you need. No need to drop cash at the machinist.

I'm gonna go ahead and drop it and check the converter up against the flex plate and see which touch first, the bolt flange or the converter to bushing.

I have auctually had 3/16 machined off the bushing and still not getting an 1/8. The converter does turn easier than before. Im gonna go with another mid plate like mentioned. Would the flex plate need shimming also, for the starter?
Thanks

Ok, I see. If I shim the flex plate I'ld be defeating the purpose.

Did the converter fit flat against the flex plate? Some converters hit the flex plate bolts in the crankshaft,just trial and error here.

No its clear of the crank bolts.
For sure this is my first time dealing with a glide setup so please bare with me.
Shimming the trans back. Would the starter need shimming ?
Thanks

tconnection wrote:No its clear of the crank bolts.
For sure this is my first time dealing with a glide setup so please bare with me.
Shimming the trans back. Would the starter need shimming ?
Thanks

no it shouldn't.

Ok I got an oe trans spacer plate. I'm gonna trim it up and use it but I think I need to double up and see what that does for me.
Thanks