offset ground cranks

Albert Clark wrote:

colorado ford man wrote:I asked a simple question about obtaining zero deck, as well as more cubic inches, makes sense. What does it matter if I OWN MY OWN crank grinder? Really makes no difference. It is my engine. If I can get the crank offset for little to nothing, that remains my business. If a guy asks the time, he doesn't want instructions how to build a clock.

You are the one arguing, you know that this will only yield you 1 cubic inch and absolutely no gain in compression don't you? Which means you will still be .015 down the hole. Sounds like a lot of Bother for nothing in gain.... I know if I ask a friend to do all this setup and work for nothing he would not be my friend for long....Sounds to me like you are a cheap A$$  so do us all a favor don't come on here arguing what you don't know and how much of a cheap person you are STFU

have a nice Day

UYA  Albert

How is it that NO gain in Compression is achieved? wouldn't there be a tighter "squeeze" in the end? No different than cutting a head such as a D3ve type chamber to reduce combustion chamber size? In my engine building endeavors, if the combustion chamber is reduced in volume for a given or constant displacement, then the increase in compression is inevitable. Now, if you are looking to change a ratio from 8.5:1 to 12.5:1 then there is persumably no measurable gain. If I have 9.5:1 and I can effectively support 10.5:1 with a given combination of parts, that are already on hand and working, then a simple crank shaft modification might be in order, as opposed to new pistons, balancing, blah blah blah, allowing for a feasible way to increase to target compression ratio.

My calculations reflect a gain from 9.97 to 10.25 with a crank cut of 0.020 and a crank cut of 0.030 should net 10.4:1 that is an engine that just made a measurable difference at our 6000' elevation. Not to mention the efficiency gain had by better quench.

pmrphil wrote:Not wanting to get into a p***ing match, but YOU were the one who said "the guys that charge more don't do a good job"
Kind of a hard slap to most current shops/machinists, don't ya think???
Cost of living varies greatly depending on where you live (and work) so any associated costs are also going to vary.

It might have come across like that, however I did not intend to. I am deeply sorry for the misinterpreted generalization. I had a 460 "done up" in a long time established machine shop, it had a d1ve block, d3 heads, and "truck" rods, it was in the shop for 5 years. I paid cash money to the tune of north of $5000. It was requested to yield a 10:1 pump gas unit for street use. performer rpm intake, comp 270 cam, hyd flat tappet, modified heads for stud mounts and guide plates, some mild shaping on the exhaust ports, 2.19" intakes installed, l&l headers, bored, balanced, line bored main journals, ground the crank mains and rods, milled heads, decked block, and was (5 years mind you) offered to me as ready to install and run. Rockers were bbc comp, terrible pushrod length selection as well as very poor valve train geometry. multiple rockers were not even adjusted into the lifters, just loose, and leaked oil like crazy. rear main seal installed backwards. No employees ever that I am aware of. HE DID IT ALL BY HIMSELF!! This guy has a yellow pages ad that would make you think he was top fuel team. Would you recommend or use him?

It’s a great way to improve compression if you can get your crank grinder to get off his butt and do it.

It’s done all the time in class racing with stock rules.

Well, here it's $140 to grind a crank. JUST the grind. If it is dirty, it costs EXTRA to clean it. If it's bent, it costs EXTRA to straighten it. A smart businessman needs to be paid for his extra work.

I mean, in all reality if you set up to do it, and had 2 or 3 cranks, it would be less than ample set up after the first one, theoretically. I am certain that there would be some set up going from one to another, but after the fact having a couple on hand would suit me fine. The set up is more cost definitely than the grinding. My friend said it is "a thankless job" an hour of setup and 5 minutes of glory.

Don't ask me where the pricing structure stands; the guy has been the only machine shop in town for roughly 20 years, and has been in business in the field on the eastern slope for 15+ years and employed at a engine machine shop before that. I feel that he has done well in building a business, a clientel, and maintaining a healthy business, in my eyes, but as usual, very close to retirement and winding down. I am asked for help more and more frequent every year to lift and move blocks, help lift cranks onto machine, the stuff that he doesn't want to struggle with anymore. I don't blame him. 40 years of building engines probably took it's toll.

Yep, crank cut and polish around $150, polish only around $75, hell when i need a journal kissed .001 or .0005" he charges me about the same because its hard to keep it round. Block prep package around $600 (no heads in sight)
Good machine work, priceless..

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I am sure they all need set up, but you don'thave to change the rock, from one 460 to the next. He has the head from my boat motor now, cut for seats, check guides, check if its bent, new seats, (4 cyl gm) probably $150-$175. and done in a week, so long as parts come on. That is a lot of work, grinding, new seats, lap valves, and not to mention parts included. I don't have the answer for cost of a certain job. I know I don't pay him near what the "going rate" is. I haven't been thrilled by the high rent guys in my area either.