Valve cover help for the scj heads

Little did I know just how close the #4 And #5 exhaust valve spring was to the valve covers .Well I know now !After much grinding welding grinding some more and still A little tight .I went on a valve cover search and found this Mr. Gasket item #6873g .They are cheap (less than $100) available and look ok just cheap .Since I thought they would still need some grinding I bought a pair .They are nice and shiny have baffles a hole for a rubber grommet seem to be made durable enough .And would need almost no grinding for the ex. valve spring and retainer .Also the top row of bolt holes are missing the center hole .I can only think that is to keep them cheap !So after checking every thing out on my engine on the engine stand and thinking all is good I pulled the drivers side valve cover off my 67 comet drag car . No luck they hit my master cylinder BAD .I could cut the corner on this valve cover turn it over and weld it in ( I can tig aluminum) But really they are just to tall for my comet .But somebody with a fox body or truck or some other race car they might work .But there is good clearance inside for the ex .valve springs and every where else inside .I have a plan for my old valve covers hopefully it will work out for me. I don't often advertise for companies but these might really help someone out they aren't that bad just really plain but as long as they do their job they should work out .Doug

manofmerc wrote:Little did I know just how close the #4 And #5 exhaust valve spring was to the valve covers .Well I know now !After much grinding welding grinding some more and still A little tight .I went on a valve cover search and found this Mr. Gasket item #6873g .They are cheap (less than $100) available and look ok just cheap .Since I thought they would still need some grinding I bought a pair .They are nice and shiny have baffles a hole for a rubber grommet seem to be made durable enough .And would need almost no grinding for the ex. valve spring and retainer .Also the top row of bolt holes are missing the center hole .I can only think that is to keep them cheap !So after checking every thing out on my engine on the engine stand and thinking all is good I pulled the drivers side valve cover off my 67 comet drag car . No luck they hit my master cylinder BAD .I could cut the corner on this valve cover turn it over and weld it in ( I can tig aluminum) But really they are just to tall for my comet .But somebody with a fox body or truck or some other race car they might work .But there is good clearance inside for the ex .valve springs and every where else inside .I have a plan for my old valve covers hopefully it will work out for me. I don't often advertise for companies but these might really help someone out they aren't that bad just really plain but as long as they do their job they should work out .Doug

I don't remember the manufacturer but, the cast covers which fit those heads the best use a long bolt on the lower left.
The column that bolt goes through is a lot smaller than other covers with the short bolt.
Some sheet metal covers are made like this, also.

If it is not a racing engine ... I simply use bee-hive springs on the exhaust side.

Using a longer bolt with a tube for the bolt is what I have planed .I thought about going with a different spring also but maybe my latest so called plan will work .If not a smaller spring might be the next choice My springs are 1.500 od so that isn't helping they are for a solid flat tappet cam .Thanks Doug.

1.500 stuff should fit with most valve covers

Dave right where the retainer and spring meet the spring was making contact with the valve cover .I have .070- .080 clearance now .The mr. gasket valve covers would have needed a little grinding also .But they hit my master cylinder .These are the original cj valve covers .I use them for shock tower clearance .The newer ford motorsports might not need any work but would have probably have hit my master cylinder .The Mr. Gasket valve covers are shaped like the ford motorsports .Doug