Motor plate or motor mounts?

650hp bbf street/strip car with a 200 shot. 64 Galaxie with Mustang 2 front suspension. Engine had a motor plate on it when I got it. I got a mid plate for it. Was planning on just running a motor plate but it seems weird that it bolts to an aluminum timing cover. Whatever I do I’m starting from scratch so there is fab either way. Pros & cons of a motor plate on these 385 series?

nedceifus wrote:650hp bbf street/strip car with a 200 shot. 64 Galaxie with Mustang 2 front suspension. Engine had a motor plate on it when I got it. I got a mid plate for it. Was planning on just running a motor plate but it seems weird that it bolts to an aluminum timing cover. Whatever I do I’m starting from scratch so there is fab either way. Pros & cons of a motor plate on these 385 series?

There are at least least 11 of those 5/16" bolts behind the water pump on that front cover ... some of which go THROUGH the front cover into the block.

A front motor plate and flexible trans mount is all which is necessary ...
mounting to more places is not a good thing if the body/chassis can flex anywhere.

If you use a front and mid plate with lateral limiters, do not use a tranny mount. I used a front/mid plate on my pulling truck and had trouble with water leaking out at the plate/timing cover and I would have to re-seal occasionlly. Keith fulp recommended adding a couple more bolts to the plate that line up with the head accessory threaded holes to help with this issue. Another thing I have seen done is to mill the back side of the timing chain cover to install the front plate between the block and tc cover.

I personally like a motor plate setup. When used on a race vehicle. Makes a solid joints between engine and. Frame. We do not have limiters, but we use a stock trans mount to control for and aft movement. We mud drag and bog. Never any problems with movement of engine.

2 wicked wrote:I personally like a motor plate setup. When used on a race vehicle. Makes a solid joints between engine and. Frame. We do not have limiters, but we use a stock trans mount to control for and aft movement. We mud drag and bog. Never any problems with movement of engine.

Are you using just the front plate with the trans mount? If so, then no, you wouldn't need lateral limiters.

Front plate and mid plate. Using trans mount to control lateral movement and support trans and transfer case. It can be a rough ride !!!

rmcomprandy wrote:

nedceifus wrote:650hp bbf street/strip car with a 200 shot. 64 Galaxie with Mustang 2 front suspension. Engine had a motor plate on it when I got it. I got a mid plate for it. Was planning on just running a motor plate but it seems weird that it bolts to an aluminum timing cover. Whatever I do I’m starting from scratch so there is fab either way. Pros & cons of a motor plate on these 385 series?

There are at least least 11 of those 5/16" bolts behind the water pump on that front cover ... some of which go THROUGH the front cover into the block.

A front motor plate and flexible trans mount is all which is necessary ...
mounting to more places is not a good thing if the body/chassis can flex anywhere.

Randy mentions an important point that if you motor plate to a factory frame. There may not be sufficient strength to support the stress.
I have a tube chassis car that has solid engine mounts with 3 bolts on the drivers side and 2 bolts on the passenger side.and a heavy duty poly transmission mount. My 3250# car leaves off the brake and sixties at 1.25 seconds. 950 horsepower?

2 wicked wrote:Front plate and mid plate. Using trans mount to control lateral movement and support trans and transfer case. It can be a rough ride !!!

From what I've read, you should either A. use a front plate and trans mount or B. Use front and mid plates with lateral limiters. The reasoning was because frame flexing could break the trans housing if you have it mounted front, mid, trans.
It made sense to me, so that is what I have followed in my builds.

I agree, but at the moment we are using a np205 transfer case. Very heavy. We broke the tail housing our first race 6 years ago. Didn't have a trans mount. After we installed a stock rubber tran mount, we haven't broke one. Eventually will upgrade to a scs straight thru drop box and that will eliminate over half the weight on the tail housing.

2 wicked wrote:I agree, but at the moment we are using a np205 transfer case. Very heavy. We broke the tail housing our first race 6 years ago. Didn't have a trans mount. After we installed a stock rubber tran mount, we haven't broke one. Eventually will upgrade to a scs straight thru drop box and that will eliminate over half the weight on the tail housing.

I'm curious why you are using a 205 case instead of the newer aluminum ones? Back when I was pulling I used the 205 case (always in 4 lo) and the torque kept unseating the clip on the rear output shaft and letting the ball bearings fall down into the case leaving me with 2wd. This went on until I put a Profab billet kit in. the newer tcases will handle way more torque then the stock 205 can.

Well, the ratio isn't correct in the aluminum t cases, to steep. With our tire size and transmission gear ratios the 205 puts us in the sweet spot. I also like running low side and running a faster gear in the diffs. Takes a big load off the trans.