Solid motor mounts

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Solid motor mounts

Post  Tennessee Bullitt on January 3rd 2010, 11:59 am

Who has used solid motor mounts? What is the pros and cons? It seems that going that far it probaly would be better to use a motor plate.

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Re: Solid motor mounts

Post  IcallhimGeorge on January 3rd 2010, 12:11 pm

Im tossing around this idea too. Im not sure the added work/cost of a motor plate will be worth it over simple solid mounts. One thing is for certain...the rubber mounts arent holding my motor in place.

Transdapt makes some solid mounts for like $65-70. Im not sure who else is a vendor for them on here but I know Joe Mayabb is.

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solid mounts

Post  blown473 on January 3rd 2010, 4:07 pm

I have used solid mounts for years. I run a stick and a broken mount means an engine slamming the hood, or even sticking the throttle wide open. Not good. Solid mounts put the full power to the chassis which you can take advantage of. Anytime that motor moves around its probably going to damage something.

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Re: Solid motor mounts

Post  adrenaline269 on January 3rd 2010, 5:24 pm

if you go solid motor mounts just remember to use a solid trans mount also. I big plus to solid mounting is cases last alot longer

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Re: Solid motor mounts

Post  the Coug on January 3rd 2010, 7:26 pm

adrenaline269 wrote:if you go solid motor mounts just remember to use a solid trans mount also. I big plus to solid mounting is cases last alot longer




BZZZZZZ wrong if you use Solid motor mounts do not use a solid trans mount if your engine torques the chassis any it will break the trans mount or tailshaft off, unless your chassis is totally ridgid and you can garrantee absolutely no flex at all.....


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Re: Solid motor mounts

Post  bbf-falcon on January 3rd 2010, 9:00 pm

I built a set of solid MM's on the ole Maverick and ran them for 11 yrs and still on it as far as I know. Like Randy said ,ya gotta watch about making the complete drive train too solid,especially in a backhalf car.

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Re: Solid motor mounts

Post  bruno on January 3rd 2010, 9:18 pm

the Coug wrote:
adrenaline269 wrote:if you go solid motor mounts just remember to use a solid trans mount also. I big plus to solid mounting is cases last alot longer




BZZZZZZ wrong if you use Solid motor mounts do not use a solid trans mount if your engine torques the chassis any it will break the trans mount or tailshaft off, unless your chassis is totally ridgid and you can garrantee absolutely no flex at all.....


Randy


x2 on what Randy said

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Re: Solid motor mounts

Post  Tennessee Bullitt on January 3rd 2010, 10:51 pm

O.K. so run solid motor mounts and like a good mount on the tranny. My car is a stock style suspension 03 mustang. I am planning on sticking a c-4 behind the motor but as much as I have read I still got the c6 that came with the motor just in case but it would need to be rebuilt. I figure 650 to 700 HP out of the 521 with the N2O I am not sure. Still out on that to see how big a shot, but 200 will be where I will cap it if it goes that far.

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Re: Solid motor mounts

Post  adrenaline269 on January 4th 2010, 12:38 am

sorry brain fart there, different application lol...yes you are correct about the trans mount

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Re: Solid motor mounts

Post  dfree383 on January 4th 2010, 11:30 am

if you have a mustang use a motor plate, it frees up alot of space for headers.

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Re: Solid motor mounts

Post  bbf-falcon on January 4th 2010, 5:19 pm

That C4 better have the good stuff in it or your wasting your time. Smile

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Re: Solid motor mounts

Post  racerk_2000 on January 5th 2010, 9:59 am

Your Bottom end and block had better have the good stuff in it to.
You should be making at least 700 HP and then throw 200 more of N2O at it ! ! ! affraid
You will be past the safe zone on the blocks ability to keep all the parts inside the oil pan. If you get anything but the best cast cranks they won't be long for this world unless your tune is dead on. Even if you get a sreel crank the block is at its limits, people think 800-850 is the max on the block, some think that it is even lower than that.
Just something to think about.
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Re: Solid motor mounts

Post  bbf-falcon on January 5th 2010, 5:47 pm

racerk_2000 wrote:Your Bottom end and block had better have the good stuff in it to.
You should be making at least 700 HP and then throw 200 more of N2O at it ! ! ! affraid
You will be past the safe zone on the blocks ability to keep all the parts inside the oil pan. If you get anything but the best cast cranks they won't be long for this world unless your tune is dead on. Even if you get a sreel crank the block is at its limits, people think 800-850 is the max on the block, some think that it is even lower than that.
Just something to think about.
Kevin
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Be safe Kevin, Preciate what you do Wink God Bless

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be safe

Post  Fat Fender 460 on January 5th 2010, 7:36 pm

racerk_2000 wrote:Your Bottom end and block had better have the good stuff in it to.
You should be making at least 700 HP and then throw 200 more of N2O at it ! ! ! affraid
You will be past the safe zone on the blocks ability to keep all the parts inside the oil pan. If you get anything but the best cast cranks they won't be long for this world unless your tune is dead on. Even if you get a sreel crank the block is at its limits, people think 800-850 is the max on the block, some think that it is even lower than that.
Just something to think about.
Kevin
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Haven't met you personally but thanks for all you do!!

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