Need header tube replaced whos good?

jones February 17th 2010, 10:41 pm

The header is a midlength style, driverside headers from D&D. The problem is the #7 primary starts the bend to close to the the flange. That makes getting a bolt or nut in that area almost imposable. The primary tube has been tapped on, but there is only so much tapping you can do.

I would like to find someon that could install a new pipe that is bent better than what there now. In the picture its the primary second from the left. It need to come out straight alittle more and then find it's way home to the collector.

PS I want to have v-band conectors welded onto the colletors.

Need header tube replaced whos good? 00610

Need header tube replaced whos good? 00610

c.evans February 17th 2010, 11:16 pm

Jones,

Put a proper length stud in that hole. Then all you have to do is thread a nut and washer on.

Charlie Evans

billandlori February 17th 2010, 11:17 pm

jones wrote:The header is a midlength style, driverside headers from D&D. The problem is the #7 primary starts the bend to close to the the flange. That makes getting a bolt or nut in that area almost imposable. The primary tube has been tapped on, but there is only so much tapping you can do.

I would like to find someon that could install a new pipe that is bent better than what there now. In the picture its the primary second from the left. It need to come out straight alittle more and then find it's way home to the collector.

PS I want to have v-band conectors welded onto the colletors.

Would you be able to send tham back to Bob for a tweek? I know you had sent a few back and forth when you were working on your turbo set up.

Bill

bbf-falcon February 18th 2010, 12:20 am

I just built a new tube for mine. Sending them to Nitroplate for coating Smile

the Coug February 18th 2010, 8:41 am

Jones just notch the flange and put a bolt in the exhaust port and take it up close and slide your header on then tighten it up....

Randy

LivermoreDave February 18th 2010, 8:53 am

Tube number 7 or 6? Can you install the bolt into the flange before mating the header to the head?

Dave.

jones February 18th 2010, 12:09 pm

I'll just have to get a better picture. I have another driverside header that I have no problem bolting down to the engine. (That set doesn't clear the frame.) So I don't believe it's a problem with the bolt location it's self, I think it is just the way the tube crowds the area.
I might be able to make it work "as is" if I use a 6 pt ARP bolt instead of a 12pt. Should be able to use a open end wrench then. (slow & pain in the arse)

Anyway, I thought I'd see if there was anyone out there that could fix the problem rather than me going through this problem every time I have to take the header on or off.

jones February 18th 2010, 12:17 pm

billandlori wrote:
jones wrote:The header is a midlength style, driverside headers from D&D. The problem is the #7 primary starts the bend to close to the the flange. That makes getting a bolt or nut in that area almost imposable. The primary tube has been tapped on, but there is only so much tapping you can do.

I would like to find someon that could install a new pipe that is bent better than what there now. In the picture its the primary second from the left. It need to come out straight alittle more and then find it's way home to the collector.

PS I want to have v-band conectors welded onto the colletors.

Would you be able to send tham back to Bob for a tweek? I know you had sent a few back and forth when you were working on your turbo set up.

Bill

We never worked togather really, he sent me these headers. I sent him a compact disc of all the problem areas for him to review, I waited then called. I was told that he doesn't really use a compact disc / computer and the econmony slowed down and doesn't want to mess with it. That's as far as that went. I think for $1,200ish I should have got the 2" long tubes in my kit. Don't get me wrong he seemed like a nice guy over the phone and seems to sell some headers that really fit well for other applications. Just one of those deals.

That's why I suggest for anyone wanting to build a turbo setup to just take the car to someone and have a set built with all the proper specifications and custom fit. Money well spent.

cletus66 February 18th 2010, 7:25 pm

Jones, I have the D&D mid length headers, and there are a couple of holes where you need to install those bolts first while you hold the header away from the head. Get them started with everything loose, and all the rest fit. A stud and nut may help, but you will still need to start the offending nuts while you hold the header away from the head. This will give you room to turn 'em. Once you realize which ones you need to do first, it ain't a big deal. It just sucks when you put 7 bolts in and get to "that one". Laughing

cletus66 February 18th 2010, 7:29 pm

LivermoreDave wrote:Tube number 7 or 6? Can you install the bolt into the flange before mating the header to the head?

Dave.

You said it a lot more succinctly than I did, but that is exactly what I do. Cool

jasonf February 18th 2010, 8:13 pm

LivermoreDave wrote:Tube number 7 or 6? Can you install the bolt into the flange before mating the header to the head?

Dave.

I had to do that on my L&L products headers. It is a major pain in the butt I think. You have plenty of room there so why fight it every time if you can just fix it now. I would just cut that out and use some j bends to make the bend in a little different shape.

'65 T-BOLT February 18th 2010, 10:01 pm

c.evans wrote:Jones,

Put a proper length stud in that hole. Then all you have to do is thread a nut and washer on.

Charlie Evans

or put that bolt in first? just a thought. I used Hooker long tube fox swap headers to fit my Fairlane. Had to reconstruct the driver side header totally and one tube on the passengers side. Fits like a glove! Takes me about 2 hours to get them in and tightened up. The car still retains the shock towers......Jason

DILLIGASDAVE February 19th 2010, 1:33 am

Sometimes you might be able to get a regular 6 point header bolt in a flange, but then can't spin it once it's seated against the flange. Depending on how tight the bend is, grinding a larger chamfer on just the top of the bolt can help some.

Need header tube replaced whos good? Headerbolt

Need header tube replaced whos good? Headerbolt

jones February 19th 2010, 1:37 am

I am having a conversation with a fellow friend that plays around with headers that believe he can fix it for me.

bcr466 February 21st 2010, 4:07 pm

I had some home built headers on the mustang that had one bolt that was hard to get to and you couldnt get a wrench on it b/c of tube. If I used an open end, when it was almost tight, you just could not get that last little turn that it needed or the shoulder would round off. I ended up getting one bolt that had provision for a 5/16 12 pt wrench or socket, used a 1/4 ratchet, ext. and socket to snug it, then a long box wrench to tighten the snot out of it. The bolt was stainless that came from a engine set a friend gave me.

Another solution for me was to use a Torx headed bolt.

billandlori February 21st 2010, 6:37 pm

[quote="jones"]

billandlori wrote:
jones wrote:The header is a midlength style, driverside headers from D&D. The problem is the #7 primary starts the bend to close to the the flange. That makes getting a bolt or nut in that area almost imposable. The primary tube has been tapped on, but there is only so much tapping you can do.

I would like to find someon that could install a new pipe that is bent better than what there now. In the picture its the primary second from the left. It need to come out straight alittle more and then find it's way home to the collector.

PS I want to have v-band conectors welded onto the colletors.
Would you be able to send tham back to Bob for a tweek? I know you had sent a few back and forth when you were working on your turbo set up.

Bill

We never worked togather really, he sent me these headers. I sent him a compact disc of all the problem areas for him to review, I waited then called. I was told that he doesn't really use a compact disc / computer and the econmony slowed down and doesn't want to mess with it. That's as far as that went. I think for $1,200ish I should have got the 2" long tubes in my kit. Don't get me wrong he seemed like a nice guy over the phone and seems to sell some headers that really fit well for other applications. Just one of those deals.

That's why I suggest for anyone wanting to build a turbo setup to just take the car to someone and have a set built with all the proper specifications and custom fit. Money well spent.

I hear ya.

No computer eh???

Sounds like quite a few set ups lately are better suited to custom headers!!

Bill

jones February 22nd 2010, 12:16 am

I can understand being nervious when you are coming into tight times and unsure what it's going to take to keep people working. Nice man and the headers would have worked for a BBF / fox body/ motor plate setup. I have a set built for my truck if I knew there was a good shop local.

83-88T-Bird Guy February 24th 2010, 8:43 am

LivermoreDave wrote:Tube number 7 or 6? Can you install the bolt into the flange before mating the header to the head?

Dave.

I also agree with Dave on this one.
Last year I put a set of shorties on a 5.0 and had to use this method.

jones February 24th 2010, 1:36 pm

83-88T-Bird Guy wrote:
LivermoreDave wrote:Tube number 7 or 6? Can you install the bolt into the flange before mating the header to the head?

Dave.

I also agree with Dave on this one.
Last year I put a set of shorties on a 5.0 and had to use this method.

That's not the problem though, problem is there is no way to tight'n the bolt. I am going to order some 6 point arp bolts and see if I can get a open end wrench on it to tighten. If it works it's still going to be a pain in the butt. Thought about using a allan head cap bolt, but there is not enought room to get the allen head in the top of the bolt.

I just need to find someone to build me a set of headers or repair these. Maybe I should look into building my own! LOL

jones February 24th 2010, 3:44 pm

Who would be a good place to get all the stuff from to build my own headers?

billandlori February 24th 2010, 5:51 pm

Have you tried the ball end Allen wrench with an Allen bolt? You can run them at a pretty good angle and still get good torque.

Example:
http://www.cvfsupplycompany.com/balendalwren.html

Bill

83-88T-Bird Guy February 25th 2010, 10:14 am

jones wrote:
83-88T-Bird Guy wrote:
LivermoreDave wrote:Tube number 7 or 6? Can you install the bolt into the flange before mating the header to the head?

Dave.

I also agree with Dave on this one.
Last year I put a set of shorties on a 5.0 and had to use this method.

That's not the problem though, problem is there is no way to tight'n the bolt. I am going to order some 6 point arp bolts and see if I can get a open end wrench on it to tighten. If it works it's still going to be a pain in the butt. Thought about using a allan head cap bolt, but there is not enought room to get the allen head in the top of the bolt.

I just need to find someone to build me a set of headers or repair these. Maybe I should look into building my own! LOL

I used socket head bolts (or allen head caps as some call them) in the areas I could not use a hex head bolt.

I would grind down the outside diameter of the socket head bolt until it cleared the header tube.
Then, I cut off a real short piece of an allen wrench the size that fit the socket head bolt. (about 9/16 inch long).
Using that short piece and an open end wrench (5/16 inch I believe) I tightened the bolts down. It was slow, but it worked.

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